i have a ruger service six, the bottom of the trigger guard is nearly bare of bluing. i degreased cleaned, heated and degreased again. heated the guard and have tried oxpho blue, g96 cream, birchwood casey. none will stay at all, the birchwood pen hold better than the others but won't darken hardly at all. the g96 will blacken the guard real good but when i rinse with water it comes off same with oxpho. what doesn't come off in the water comes off when i oil it. the pen leave's a very minor dull finish but nothing seems to be working. i called birchwood casey and g96, they said it may be because the trigger guard was a casting or because since it is a casting the metal inside isn't the same through the whole guard. i'm stumped, can anyone help? i don't need it to match, just cover the bare metal. i thought cera coat but no one near me can blast it so it will stick good. i don't mind bluing wear if it isn't large spots but the bottom of the guard is almost all gone of bluing and i just would like it dulled enough to protect it and stop the shine. thanks for any help.
Re: trigger guard won't blue??
- Thread starter old fart
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Driftwood Johnson
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Ummmmmmmmmmmm...........I can't speak for the Service Six, but all blued Ruger Blackhawks have an aluminum grip frame and trigger guard. Blue does not work on aluminum. Anodizing works on aluminum.
The Ruger Service Six has a steel trigger guard - either high carbon and blued, or stainless.
The high carbon/blued guard may give you problems, but I suspect that if you called the company service line they might take it in and "tank blue" it for little or no charge. Trying to get a good finish with various cold blues is usually a waste of money and time. They tend to work or not work, depending on the alloy in the part.
The high carbon/blued guard may give you problems, but I suspect that if you called the company service line they might take it in and "tank blue" it for little or no charge. Trying to get a good finish with various cold blues is usually a waste of money and time. They tend to work or not work, depending on the alloy in the part.
Interesting...
Anyone who is running a hot salt bluing system can reblue your trigger guard as long as it was blued in the first place (in other words, not stainless steel).
We have at least one member on this forum in Texas who does bluing, and they're should be plenty more. So long as polishing isn't required this shouldn't be expensive. You can send trigger guards back and forth through the mail as long as it isn't attached to a complete gun.
You may however be required to remove the internal parts inside of the trigger module so the bluer won't have to worry about them.
I suspect Ruger's problem is that if they lose any of those small parts they no longer have any to replace whatever it is or was.
Also the good people at Brownells (www.brownells.com) might be able to point you toward someone in your area that is doing bluing - since they make the equipment and supply the chemicals.
Anyone who is running a hot salt bluing system can reblue your trigger guard as long as it was blued in the first place (in other words, not stainless steel).
We have at least one member on this forum in Texas who does bluing, and they're should be plenty more. So long as polishing isn't required this shouldn't be expensive. You can send trigger guards back and forth through the mail as long as it isn't attached to a complete gun.
You may however be required to remove the internal parts inside of the trigger module so the bluer won't have to worry about them.
I suspect Ruger's problem is that if they lose any of those small parts they no longer have any to replace whatever it is or was.
Also the good people at Brownells (www.brownells.com) might be able to point you toward someone in your area that is doing bluing - since they make the equipment and supply the chemicals.
if it just wasn't my only gun i wouldn't mind sending it off and letting someone blue or coat it. can't see being completely without a gun on my person and at home for several weeks, times are getting bad and its not safe anywhere anymore. i may try to sell it an get two cheaper guns, then if i do have to send one back i'll have a backup. i've had some nice offers for it, if it just didn't shoot so darn good i could make my mind up faster. thanks everyone.
Before anything else, I would see if anyone in your area is doing bluing (sometimes called black oxide ) in your area. Check the local gun shops.
With a little luck, and knowing when (whoever) as going to fire up their tanks, you might literally walk in with the stripped trigger guard and walk out 2 hours or less later with it refinished.
If you are going to stake your life on this there is no way I would think you should sell a better self-defense handgun for 2 cheaper ones. When you get to the bottom line - cosmetics, such as refinishing, makes no difference in now a gun works. Inferior quality can. Dependability is golden.
I have an older S&W model 10 (.38 Military & Police) revolver made a few years after World War Two. It hasn't had an easy life and sort of looks like it was attached to a chain and dragged behind somebody's pick-up truck. That said the mechanics and timing are dead on, and its chambers and bore are perfect. I keep saying that someday I may Parkerize it (about $20.00) but have never got around to it. Meanwhile it works fine.
With a little luck, and knowing when (whoever) as going to fire up their tanks, you might literally walk in with the stripped trigger guard and walk out 2 hours or less later with it refinished.
If you are going to stake your life on this there is no way I would think you should sell a better self-defense handgun for 2 cheaper ones. When you get to the bottom line - cosmetics, such as refinishing, makes no difference in now a gun works. Inferior quality can. Dependability is golden.
I have an older S&W model 10 (.38 Military & Police) revolver made a few years after World War Two. It hasn't had an easy life and sort of looks like it was attached to a chain and dragged behind somebody's pick-up truck. That said the mechanics and timing are dead on, and its chambers and bore are perfect. I keep saying that someday I may Parkerize it (about $20.00) but have never got around to it. Meanwhile it works fine.
jimmyraythomason
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