Ready to reload--need .45 recipe recommendations!

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Citadel99

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Hey guys,

I'm finally ready to start reloading. I have cleaned, deprimed, and resized 200 pieces of .45 ACP brass. I'd like to pick up some components as soon as I get back from the field next week. So, I'm enlisting your help to get started with powder, primers, and bullets.

By the way, I've got a 550. But, until I get passed a thousand rounds or so I'll be using it as a single stage.

Mark

edited for foolish vague caliber reference!
 
.45ACP LOADS

You will need Large Pistol primers., I prefer Bullseye powder, but the choice is yours. If you want to load a "service" round, you will need 230 gr. round nose, ball. If you want to load for Target, get some 185 gr. semi-wadcutters. I buy mine from a gentleman in Maryland who makes some very hard, and accurate lead 185 gr'ers.
Good Shooting!:cool:
 
I use larryw's load, borrowed from the Marines - a very nice, light target round, and it's 'clean'...

4.3 gr Winchester Super Target WST
200 grain semi-wadcutter, plated
Any old brass
Winchester Large Pistol Primer

Voila! Perhaps surprisingly, you can use the same load with 230 grain plated 'ball' rounds. I'm moving to only shooting 230 ball because of reliability problems in my 1911 with non-ball loads.
 
Um, I think the most important question is what is the purpose you intend to use these rounds for? Competition where ya want to push it down against what ever power floor is in the rules. Or, moderately loaded practice ammo like Winchester white box value packs? Ya may want to go with a fast powder like Tite Group for those low and mid power loads. If its something like self/home defense where ya are gonna want a hotter load ya may want to go with an different powder so ya can up the power factor of the round and have good consistancy by having a full casing.

Also what is it gonna be shot in? Moonclips for a 625 S&W Revolver, a 1911 Auto? That can make a difference in bullet selection due to the speed and reliability of reloading on wheel guns. If thats a factor to ya.

Also primer selection is important if you plan on using it in a revolver. If ya use federal primers ya can back that hammer spring off a bit and it will still function 100% and the DA trigger pull is much better, letting you shoot faster if speed shooting is in the plans. This kinda thing really limits ya to reloaded ammo though due to the fact that the pistol will likely have failure to fire problems on harder primers like the winchester primers.

There are bunches of recipes out there. Which one ya want depends on what it was designed to make the gun do.

So, what do ya want the gun to do?
 
My reloads will be used for target shooting in my Kimber Classic. Any self/home defense rounds will be bought from a manufacturer.

Mark
 
I'd sure first get a good reloading manual like Speer or Lee or others, and then read it. (The reading is the hard part, "real men" hate to read directions). Also, all the powder mgf have booklets you can get free at the gun shop where you get your powder that have good reloading data.

45acp is a rewarding one to reload because the cost of shooting goes wayyyyy down. I'm using Bullseye now, but a lot of people have suggested the WST and I'll try that when this runs out. I use a Lee powder measure and its hard to get consistent drops with Bullseye. But what helps that is to keep it pretty full, a suggestion I got here.

I like your comment about doing it single stage for a time to see how it all works and get used to it. I use a Lee single stage setup and really find that's all I need. I do 45acp and 38 spec on it, about 100 or 200 at a time for each operation. Can quit whenever I want and go back to it later.

Good luck....
Tom
 
You can't go wrong with a 230 grain projectile. But the 200 grain SWC in either lead or plated are pretty sweet too.

200 SWC (Laser-Cast or Rainier is what I usually use)
4.8 TiteGroup
Mixed Brass
WW Large Pistol

Makes 825 fps out of my Govt Model.

Another standard load:

230 RN (Berry's plated for this one)
Around 5 grains of Bullseye
Mixed Brass
WW Large Pistol

Invest in lots of load manuals. ;)

Good Luck

esheato....
 
I have been loading 200gr LSW (National Bullet), Federal Primers, WW cases, Unique (don't want to quote off top of my head but the manual lists 850fps, no leading problems). Nice, reliable (zero FTF), dirty as a politician at a fund raiser. I am going to try Clays, WST to see if I can find something cleaner.
 
308, try 3.6 Clays. It is marginally powered for stock springs but very nice to shoot, some guns like it and some need a little more oomph. 3.8 is enough to run just about any 1911 that will run and is still very accurate. With the bullet lube mess it is still pretty dirty but it shoots nice and is very economical.

Bullseye works about the same, but smells better when it burns:D .
 
As was mentioned a few times earlier in the thread... Get Loading Manuals :)

For my Springfield 1911 w5 inch barrel, I use the following for defensive practice and IDPA competition in CDP class:

Winchester 230gr FMJ round nose (feeds great)
Federal Large Pistol primers
4.5 Grains of tite group powder
167 power factor
726 fps average according to my chrono

That gives me a very functional practice ammo that has a gentle power factor of about 167. Right on the IDPA power floor. Its just a few feet per second shy of Winchester white box ammo which I chronoed at about 810fps. It functions well and is easy on the gun. I like the tite group because for one its cheap, works well on lower power loads, and it is clean. Not what I would use esp if I were wanting to do serious bullseye stuff, but if your doing defensive types of practice its fine.

If your wanting to cut tiny holes in paper, then you can try some of the recipies listed, but you may just have to experiment. Looking at the loading manual and powders/bullets available to ya, I find that the most accurate loads are the ones that fill the case with powder. In my chronographing experience the extreme spread on the bullet speed across a chrono increases as the empty space in the shell increases. I my hypothesis is that its an issue with the position of the powder in the case as the primer fires. Powder to the rear of the casing equals a slightly higher speed. Powder up in the front against the bullet equals a slightly slower speed. Just something I thought ya might find interesting.

If your new to loading be very careful not to EVER double charge a casing by accident! As with many pistol loads if your not careful the casing will easily hold a double charge and ya can blow up your nice Kimber. Get a system down and avoid distractions when powdering and pressing. On my rock chucker single stage I powder and then press immediately so that if I get distracted I wont get screw up and charge it again... brain farts happen. Try to make sure that ya keep your focus on the job at hand and have a system.

My Dillon 650 progressive is what I load all my pistol ammo on unless I want some batch of just a few rounds for testing. Your gonna love your 550 when ya start using it as a progressive. Get the powder check system if ya dont already have it.

Another bit of safety info is that lead shoots faster and easier than jacketed ammo. That said, if you were to take a hot load developed for a lead bullet and changed to a jacketed bullet, your chamber pressure is gonna rise. Perhaps putting you into an over pressure condition. Keep that in mind with the hotter loads. Again... Look at the book :)

Here are some links that may help ya with supplies and equipment if ya havent already seen em..
Midway (loading equipment & accessories and bullets & brass ...)
Dillon Precision (presses and loading accessories)
Roze Distribution (great prices and free shipping on bullets)
Natchez Shooters Supply (powder, primers, bullets, ...)

Just a few thoughts... hope it helps. Be careful and have fun

BTW, if your at Fayettnam I have a cousin thats a Major down there that has a Lee 1000 progressive. He loads .45s and im sure if ya want some help or something he would probably be happy to lend ya hand if he has the time. He has been loading for years.
 
Some of my favorite - -

.45 ACP loads - - -

I currently use WLP primers - - They work fine through my Dillon 550B and may often be found on special at gun shows and such.

I seldom bother sorting brass unless I'm doing chronograph work, because I see no point in "magnumizing" this cartridge.

230 gr. lead round nose, 5.3 gr. of Win 231. Gives about 820 fps from either my Colt Govt Model or Elder Son's Kimber, both with five-inch barrel.

Same bullet with 6.2 gr. of Unique. This MAY be slightly more accurate.

230 gr. FMJ RN, West Coast Gold, 5.3 gr. of Win 231. A little more expensive, but makes it easier to clean the Cutts Compensator on my Thompson.

All the above are generally equivalent to factory hard ball loads. Their trajectory is quite similar to my carry load (Speer Gold Dot 230 HP) and I save a LOT of money in practice. These are my normal plinking and match loads.

The H&G #68 200 gr. LSWC, or the commercial equivalent, shoots very well with same 6.2 gr. of Unique. Very mild but plenty of power to take down steel plates.

You can safely load hotter than any of these, but I see no advantage in battering the pistol or the shooter. The above loads are safe and function flawlessly in perhaps ten different 1911, National Match, Commander, and Officers ACP pistols. For some reason, my old 1917 S&W doesn't shoot the 200 LSWC load accurately.

I've also loaded a fair number of JHPs in 185, 200, and 230, but it has been years, and I'd rather you get powder charges for those from a current loading manual.

All the best,
Johnny
 
I really like loads useing Accurate's #5 at starting levels in both 200 lswc and 230 fmj projectiles
 
Favorite Recipes For The .45 AC

Greeting's All-

I'm using a 200 grain Magnus hard cast L-SWC bullet,
over 4.9 Hodgdon's Universal with W-W LP primers,
and range brass. C.O.L. set at 1.235",* and has proven
very reliable and accurate in my SIG P220!

*FootNote- crimped using the LEE .45 ACP factory crimp
die.

Best Wishes,
Ala Dan, N.R.A. Life Member
 
FWIW..

we have a local reloader that repacks stuff for PD's, etc. Loads literally millions of rounds a year. He uses my favorite, AA5, almost exclusively. Meters great, super clean, very consistent. WST and Universal Clays would be my other choices. Unique is dirty beyond belief.

mine is Mid-range load of AA5 (get the FREE Accurate book and use it) , 200 gr LSWC, WLP primer, any case

as above, the single biggest favor you can do yourself is get a Lee FCD. Read the instructions about how to set it up. On my 550, I "kinda" crimp in the bullet seating die and finish with the Lee in the 4th stage.
 
Thanks for the input. I've currently got the Lyman reloading book and the ABCs of reloading and have thoroughly read both. I've reloaded shotshells for years. I've reloaded on a Rock Chucker and a 550 a couple of times when I've flown out to Colorado Springs to shoot with my uncle.

I'll be picking up a few more manuals. Just wish I wasn't going out to the field Saturday morning for a 9 day exercise. Arrrggghhh. But, hey, next year there will be a 365 day field exercise. But that's another story...

I'm sure I'll have some more questions down the road.

Mark
 
Just a couple more recipes...

My practice load...
200 Gr Precision bullets round nose
mixed brass
Win. or CCI primers
5.2 gr. WW231

Match load:
200 gr. Montana Gold jacketed FP
Rem. nickle Brass
Win. primers
5.7 gr. WW 231
(makes 165 power factor, but just barely. Will probably try 5.8 grains soon.)
 
My current fave load approximates my 200 grain carry load.
CCI large pistol primers.
Hornady #45140 HP/XTP bullets, COL 1.240
6.0 grains unique.
I happen to use PMP brass, because it's good and I happen to have a lot of it.
Dillon 550b, and a combination of dillon, RCBS, and lee FC dies that seems to work the best for me.

There are cheaper load combos for sure, but this load is good for 850 FPS out of my USP compact, and it feels exactly like my carry load.
 
Citadel99,
My choice for .45acp with 180gr wadcutter (H&G#130) or 200gr SWC (H&G#68 or Lyman 452460) is 3.5gr of 700X. I have shot matches with this combo for years. My Gold Cup has the lighter springs for this load so it might be neccessary to increase the 700X by .2 to function normal springed .45. Quantrill
 
I use 4.1 grs of titegroup and 200swc by westcoast. very accurate, "lite load".
with my springfield loaded.

I would suggest a lee factory crimp die also.
 
I use 5.0gr of Red Dot 230gr FMJ or JHP bullet, any brass brand, and Winchester large pistol primers. I chrono'd this load doing 870fps out my SA "Fully Loaded" 1911A1.

Later,

Dave
 
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