Reloading .45 ACP

[HKGuns]

I'm an experienced 12ga reloader and am quite happy with my MEC single stage press.

What equipment do I need to start reloading .45 ACP? Help me get started at a reasonable cost. (I already have a scale etc.....)

I know I need some sort of a tumbler......what else is involved with cartridge reloading and whats optional/required?

Thanks for the help.

Edit: I also have a 300WSM that I may want to reload in the future.....does that change what I need to buy?

 

[Zeke Menuar]

You will get a lot of varied suggestions.

This is what I started with.

A Lee Aniversary Kit. X-Mas gift from wife seven years ago. Still using it

http://www.midwayusa.com/rewriteaproduct/149097

Calipers

Several reloading manuals

RCBS carbide 45ACP dies

I also have a Lee manually operated disk powder measure. Couldn't find a link for it. Eliminates the need for a scale if the disk measures up with your load. Measures by volume. Speeds things up considerably.

I don't use a tumbler. I use Birchwood-Casey liquid case cleaner. My tumbler sounds like a unmuffled diesel engine about to explode.

If I have forgotten something, others will fill in the gap.

ZM

 

[Tory]

I vote for a tumbler!

Gets the brass VERY clean and, assuming you get a quality tumbler and use either a corn or walnut media, there should be minimal noise. It's "white noise" anyway, so it's not terribly intrusive.

You might want to invest in a cartridge gauge; you will certainly want to consider a Lee Final Crimp Die, especially if you load lead bullets.

Spare loading blocks are inexpensive and handy; the more cases you can do at each given stage, the more efficient you will become.

Of course, when you buy a Dillon, you won't need them!

 

[ClarkEMyers]

I started with a 310 tool and a scale -

I started with a 310 tong tool/dies and a scale - there's a difference between need and nice to have. In those days the 310 tool was a cheaper way to go - not so true any more - a 1911 barrel (out of the gun) will do a job as a case length and loaded cartridge gauge, decapping with a hammer and nail and so forth.

I'd suggest a press of choice (I now have a Hollywood Universal Turret among others because I read about it in Elmer Keith's books and wanted it - not much reason to buy one today) and carbide dies along with a Lee hand priming tool as a bare minimum and a good powder measure almost certainly will be more fun. That and books are really all you need.

When I moved on to a press and dies I mostly bought RCBS as being widely distributed and decent quality. I suppose they still are but these days I like Redding for precision and Dillon for volume.

 

[HKGuns]

Thanks for all the suggestions so far guys.

Couple of questions......

What are the calipers used for? Isn't there an "all in one" setup like we have for shotshell loading? This looks a bit more Helter-skelter than what I'm used to with the shotshells stuff.

If I were to describe the process from what I know from my shot shell reloading perhaps you can fill in the gaps.

1. Deprime used brass. -Deprimer?
2. Clean and shine used brass. -Tumbler
3. Resize used brass. -What does this?
4. Prime new cartridge. - What does this?
5. measure and load charge. -What does this?
6. Insert and crimp bullet. -What does this?

Did I miss something? Would doing 300WSM simply mean another set of Dies? -Whatever the dies are used for.....

Maybe a bullet reloading manual would explain all of this.......

Also, I've seen "Case Trimmers" mentioned. When are they used and why?

 

[Jim Watson]

Get a nice Lyman 48th edition manual and all will be made clear.
You cannot learn to handload one question at a time on the Internet.
But just to give you some sugarplums for Christmas...

In single stage reloading, you get a set of dies that screw into the press.

Die no 1 resizes and decaps the brass.

A primer arm or a priming punch that screws in like a die seats a primer, or you can use a separate little hand tool.

Die no 2 expands and flares the case mouth to start a bullet without damage.

A powder measure, adjusted according to reload data with a powder scale dispenses powder into the case. Lee makes powder measures that mount on the flaring die to do two operations at once.

Die no 3 seats the bullet.

Die no 4 taper crimps the brass against the bullet.

The above for a pistol calibre. Reloading a bottleneck rifle cartridge is done with a two die set. Die 1 resizes and neck expands the case, die 2 seats the bullet. Jacketed bullets in rifle calibre do not need a flared case mouth nor need they be crimped, in most cases.

You do not HAVE to have a tumbler. You can just wipe the brass clean of dust and dirt or you can wash or chemically clean it. I went for years with just a rag. You can get away with less clean pistol brass, the sizing die is lined with tungsten carbide, but rifle dies are steel and you MUST keep grit out of them.

 

[HKGuns]

Thanks Jim.....That helps a lot. This sounds like a lot of work for one bullet, or am I making too much of it?

 

[rbwillnj]

You didn't say how much you shoot, or plan to shoot. That is what really determines what you need.

I shoot at least 500 rounds a week, and for me, a progressive press is the only way to go. If you are only going to shoot 50-100 rounds at a time, once and a while, you could get by with a single station press, but for not much more, Id go with a Turret Press. If you shoot any less than that, buy the ammo.

Once you have the equipment and the brass, you should be able to reload for about 5 - 6 cents per round. If you cast your own (and your talking a whole other set of equipment) you can cut that in half depending on where you find the lead.

 

[HKGuns]

I plan to shoot probably between 2-500 rounds per week.

Casting my own isn't an option unless I can cast jacketed bullets (I'm assuming this isn't something easily done). I'm shooting a poly bored USP .45c which makes jacketed my only option.

 

[stans]

I agree with what Jim Watson said and if you have to pick just one reloading manual make it the Lyman's manual. I started reloading with the Lee kit, but I am now a devotee of RCBS. The Lee press was ok and I never used the powder dipper, I always use a powder measure to throw charges since it is far more adjustable. I found the Lee dies to be wanting in the quality department. The rubber O-ring in the lock nut never inspired confidence and I was always concerned that the die might not be in the same position when removed and then reinstalled in the press. I also found their powder through the expander to be a few thousandths of an inch out of round. I can't begin to tell you what that does to accuracy. I have tried Lyman, RCBS and Hornady dies and found all of them to be better than Lee. I finally settled on RCBS for all of my new dies and my press is now RCBS.

Since you are planning on shooting 200 to 500 rounds a week I would also recommend a progressive press. Single stage presses are great for beginners, those who reload very little and for precision rifle rounds, but for 200 to 500 rounds of 45 ACP progressive is the way to go. I am using the RCBS AmmoMaster press. These seem to be hard to find today, but were popular many years ago. Mine can be converted to a single stage press and has enough space between the die holder and the bottom of the press to actually reload .50 Browning machine gun rounds. I wouldn't go with such a large press if I were purchasing one today, but RCBS makes nice presses as does Dillon. Dillon is the choice among IPSC/USPSA shooters and the same probably goes for IDPA.

Yeah, polygonal bores don't shoot lead all that well and tend to collect lead at alarming rates. An alternative to traditional jacketed bullets would be plated bullets. These are usually swaged lead bullets with a copper plating on them. Ranier, West Coast, and Berry's immediately come to my mind. They cost a little more than cast lead, but less than most jacketed bullets. I have found the accuracy to be ok, but not quite as good as cast lead or traditional jacketed, but my accuracy tests have only been on Berry's bullets.

 

[Intune]

If you're just gonna do pistol cals get a used Dillon Square Deal. Any worn, broken or lost parts will usually be replaced free. As with any progressive... One pull = one round.

Tumbler. Start looking at garage sales for ice cream makers or go buy a new one. You might want to go with the electric model. Buy a big bag of corn media from the pet dept at one of the _Mart stores. Take the plastic paddles out of the maker. Don't ask me how I know this. Put a heaping tbs of paste car wax (no ammonia, brittle brass) in there with a few hundred cases, set that puppy in the garage and fire it up.

 

[Jim Watson]

The key to loading bulk ammo with a single stage press is to run a batch through each step, you sure don't screw the dies in and out of the press for each round. It is not like sliding a hull from station to station on your MEC.

But if you want hundreds of rounds a week, you need a progressive. A hundred rounds an hour with everything set up is fast on a single stage.

A Dillon Square Deal B is ok, but be careful about buying second hand, especially at long distance on ebay or similar. People are bad about not sending along the instructions or some of the small parts with used equipment. It would be a nuisance to me, but it would be a disaster for you because you don't have the experience to know what is wrong.

You CAN learn to load on a progressive. Since the Dillons only deliver powder when there is a case under the powder measure station, unlike the charge bar on your MEC, you can run one round at a time through the process until you understand what is going on at each station. You can download the operating manual. Go to
http://dillonprecision.com/default.cfm?
and click on Dillon Manuals Online (right below the calendar ad on the left.)
It is an instruction manual on the machine, you still need a good handloaders manual like Lyman or Speer.

 

[HKGuns]

Thanks Jim...and everyone. I'm leaning heavily toward a Dillon 550B. But still not sure on the cost. (Being post Christmas and all) Am still looking at the turret presses also.

Given my hunting buddies also shoot and carry .45's I will probably end up punching rounds for them also....

What about a case trimmer? When and why is it used?

Also, are there any places that sell reasonably priced jacketed bullets? The only one's I've seen make me wonder if I shouldn't continue to buy my rounds.

 

[Jim Watson]

Dillon 550B is their most versatile machine, good for pistol or rifle ammo, uses standard 7/8x14 thread dies of most any brand if you are loading a caliber Dillon doesn't support.

Supplying reloaded ammunition to others calls for a Federal Firearms License and a lot of liability insurance; plus a good deal of experience. The technical term for a friend with a blown up gun and a lawyer is "Plaintiff."

You need a case trimmer for repeated reloading of bottleneck cartridges. Chamber pressure tends to "flow" brass forward and lengthen the case.
This does not happen with a straight wall pisol case like .45 ACP, they will actually shorten slightly with use.
Dillon makes a fancy powered unit that goes on the press, suitable for volume loading of rifle match ammo. One of the various hand cranked tools would do for anything else.

Reasonably priced jacketed bullets?
Bulk Remington .45 230 FMJ is $77.85 a thousand from Midway, figure $15 per thousand primers and $15 for enough powder for a thousand rounds, and you are up to $108 per thousand rounds of .45 ACP, assuming you have some brass saved up. Cases will last many loadings, I usually lose mine before they wear out.
What can you buy for that? UMC is about $300 a thousand at Midway.

Plated bullets can be had cheaper than that and many folks use them although I don't.

If you can do better than that, save your time on pistol ammo, but think about a single stage press for rifle ammo, you can surely save money on .300 magnums if you shoot more than what it takes to get your game every season.

 

[SASS#23149]

Bottom line,IMHO....
Start wtih pistol ammo,and if ya like metallic relaoding,read up on rifle and decide if you shoot enough of it to warrant case lubing,neck trimming,shoulder setback issues,etc.Straight wall pistol ammo is a much easier to learn,and less time involved.
Reistol ammo.to load 1000 rounds on a single stage press is over 4000 seperate operaions.On a progressive like the 550b,it's 1004.
notice.The Squrare Deal does PISTOL AMMO ONLY,but does it quite well.Takes special dies though.
I would learn on my own,with NO interruuptions or buddies hanging around,then if they want relaoded ammo,teach them.Then if their gun Kabooms,you're not on the hook.It DOES happen.
Reloading requires that you pay strict attention to what yho are doing.If reloading becomes a gabfest,accidents are going to happen.Pure and simple.

 

[Smythe77]

Yes a couple of reloading manuals will help a lot. I reload a lot of 45ACP, 38 Spl, 9mm & sometimes shift to 44Mag for a lever action rifle.

Using cast bullets & yes I use a good Turret press, a decent tumbler, powder measure, scale, basically RCBS carbide dies & shell holders.

No rush in my reloading & will reload ammo, once I get to know some good loads, into MTM plastic boxes properly marked as to caliber, bullet tip, type of powder & how many grains plus date.

Once you have done your reading THEN come to this board to ask about whatever you want in reloading equipment.

One downfall with Dillion Square Deal is you are STUCK with their dies & their dies only. Their 550, & on are like all other presses in that you can use normal dies.

Time to get the above reloading manual & do a bit of reading then ask questions rather then being in a rush & possibly wasting money on things not as good as you expected or you might rarely use in your life of reloading.

Definately a single stage reloading press is for rifle loads of those that do not shoot much. We h/gun people tend to hammer off a lot of rnds each time we are at the range.

 

[HKGuns]

I'm all set.......thanks to everyone.