Ready to try brass reloading?

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mswestfall

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Tell me what else...

My lovely wife bought me a Dillon RL 550B w/a .223 conversion kit, a bullet tray and a strong mount for my birthday.

Since then I've purchased:
And Read the Lee "Modern Reloading Second Edition"
An 8 oz. bottle of Frankfort Arsenal Brass Case Polish
A 7 pound bag of Frankfort Arsenal Corn Cob Cleaning Media
A Lyman Turbo Twin Case Tumbler
A can of Imperial Case Sizing Wax
A Lee Factory Crimp Die (.223)
A Lee Deluxe Rifle 3-Die Set (.223)
A box of 100 Berger 62 Grain Match HP (BT??) Bullets (.223)
A box of 100 Nosler 69 Grain HPBT Bullets (.223)
A box of 50 Sierra 77 Grain HPBT Bullets (.223)
A pound of Winchester 748
A pound of Hodgdon 4895
A pound of Hodgdon Varget

I have calipers and a scale. My neighbor (thank the Lord) has a bullet swagger, trimmer and deburer.

I've built an new work bench in the garage for my reloader but need to clean the garage and set up the reloader.

I will start by reloading once fired Radway Green cases.

Okay, what else do I need to get, buy, try?
 
Having a few other manuals besides the Lee is a good thing.
Good lighting in the area.
A comfortable chair and a distraction free place to load.
You will only need the sizer and seater dies in the Dillon and the FCD if you want. I use a taper crimp on my blasting ammo and no crimp on the good stuff.
Polish the expander button on the sizer. Smooths the process.
Some have issues with the consistency of the drops from the Dillon powder measure. There are some tricks and polishing that will alleviate this problem.
Varget is one of the powders that the Dillon has issues with. 748 flows like water thru the Dillon. 4895 meters pretty good.
RL-15 and N-140 are a couple more powders that work well in the 223 case with the heavy bullets.
You did not mention the rifle or it's twist. I would assume at this point it is a 1 in 8 or 9.
 
A progressive press wouldn't be my first choice for .223. (I've got a 550b, but don't use it for rifle cartridges.)

Get a case gauge to check your resized brass. You'll also need a case trimmer.
 
Don't know this for certain about the 223 Radway Green cases, but the 7.62 NATO cases are definitely berdan primed and are not easily reloaded. You might look inside to see whether these are berdan primed.

Sounds like you have a nice setup there. Good luck and have fun with your new hobby.
 
Looks to me like other than a case gauge and primer's you're set. Take your time when setting up that press the first time and work on adjusting one die at a time until you're sure you've got it right. I've reloaded alot of .223 ammo on an RL550 with no problems. A progressive is a bit intimidating at first (compared to a single stage) but it's not all that hard. If you've got the dillon video it's helpful to explain things as well.

Have fun!
 
Some have issues with the consistency of the drops from the Dillon powder measure. There are some tricks and polishing that will alleviate this problem.
Atached is photo of a couple of the "improvements to the Dillon measure.
 
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another manual or 2 just for more load data and a spare bank account for more bullets and components. Get a spare parts kit for the press this way when cause there is no if you break something you will have it on hand Dillon will then send you that part to put back in you spare parts bag.
 
Sounds like you are starting off with a great set up. Don't worry about starting with a progressive, take your time to learn the press and the process and you will be fine. Welcome to reloading.
Rusty
 
Thanks everyone!!

I did also buy 1,000 CCI small rifle primers....
The Radway Green 5.56 NATO brass is Boxer primed.

I've vibrated about 350 cases. Then after setting up the work bench and (half of the) 550B, I deprimed and full length sized about 50 cases so far. The cases are from 1.57 to 1.60 inches. (Two are over 1.60 and I will trim them.)

After about 8-10 cases, the depriming rod did pull out of the Lee full length sizer die. I had to torque it down alot.

Lubing the brass was easier than I thought. It did take about 6-8 cases to lube the die.

I'm waiting for Christmas to see if I get a swager, trimmer and deburrer. If I don't I will use my neighbor again. (He's a good man a good friend and a good shot.)

After that I will finish setting up the press go through the rest of the reloading process.

With a Wylde Chamber can I reload to an OAL that "fits the magazine"? If not, how much longer can/should I go over the OAL of a .223 Remington to fit the Wylde Chamber?

BTW I shoot .223/5.56 out of a RRA NM A4.

Any recommendations on reloading manuals? Other comments?

Thanks again!
 
If you have access to a curve oal gage like the Stoney Point/Hornady you can set your bullets out to the lands not sure on the RRA AR but on a Wilson you have to set the bullet back to fit in the magazine cause the lands oal is to long for the mag. also only make a few this long and make sure that everything will function

Lyman Hornady your favorite bullet and favorite powder reloading mauals and then as time goes on pick them up at yard and estate sale or when you see one on sale you will find that once you have a dozen manuals that you have a go to manual and then the rest are there for the odd balls.
 
Also watch playing with your OAL and powder. Know what powder you are useing some powders recommend not exceding the OAL. Can't recall of the top of my head but it doesn't hurt to mention.
 
So I've loaded my first 50 rounds.

I used Varget and CCI Primers in the Radway Green once fired brass.
I didn't swage the primer pocket. I did have one stick. I learned that I can insert the Dillon swager insert and see if it needs to be swaged.
I loaded two bullets a Nosler 69 grain and a Sierra 77 grain. I loaded five rounds each of four powder charges per bullet; minimum and 20% increases. I decided not to mess with the maximum load of either bullet because it was a compressed load; a "c" load.

Everything seemed easy. I do have these observations:
The crimper is a unique tool. Small adjustments make a big difference.
I got a piece of brass on the primer seating post. It "dented" three primers.

I used these primers to load the last ten rounds with two mid-range powder charges and a Honaday 62 grain bullet.

I'm off to the range tomorrow to see how they shoot in my rifle.
 
mc223

I've worked the Dillion powder measure as you suggested; except for the Dillion 450 spring.

I get a 0.2 grain fluctuation. Is that about the best I can expect?
 
A progressive press wouldn't be my first choice for .223. (I've got a 550b, but don't use it for rifle cartridges.)

Sport45,

Can you your explain further your comment?

I'm specifically thinking of progressive due to the high volume of .223 used in a semi-auto AR.

Mike
 
I'd like to interject... I load 223 on a Dillon 450, and so long as your powder measure is sound and you follow through on your stroke, no problems should occur.

Rifle is easier vs. pistol in stage loading (neglecting case prep, which I do before)
(1. deprime/full length 2. powder 3. seat)
vs.
(1. deprime/full length 2. bell case 3. powder 4. seat 5. crimp)

It's faster, and in my hunting loads, I like to measure every load just for shiggles. If I'm only making 50 or so rounds, I like to take my time on every one.
 
mswestfall
I've worked the Dillion powder measure as you suggested; except for the Dillion 450 spring.

I get a 0.2 grain fluctuation. Is that about the best I can expect?
If you don't have a baffle inside od the powder tub that will help also.
Every little thing adds up. I don't know if the Dillon has a pistol vs riflepowder bar but if so check and see if the pistol will throw high enough for the 223 charge. I use a pistol rotor in a hornady powder dispenser for 223 and it works great.
Quote:
A progressive press wouldn't be my first choice for .223. (I've got a 550b, but don't use it for rifle cartridges.)

Sport45,

Can you your explain further your comment?

I'm specifically thinking of progressive due to the high volume of .223 used in a semi-auto AR.

BigMike66 I agree and disagree. You will want a single stage they come in handy for setting up loads, swgging, bullet pulling, and short runs. And if you plan on getting into competition where you are shooting the hair off a knat then a single stage and all the little gauges and do-dads to get match ammo. If your just hunting shooting targets even out 500+yrds a progressive will make great ammo, and do it a lot faster.

That being said you can run a lot of bad ammo out pretty fast also if not paying real close attention to your set up. You can run a 100rnds out in ten minutes and come to find out that they won't fit in your magazine. Gotta run them all again. Set them to deep now you have to pull 100rnds and start over.
 
jenrob,

BigMike66 I agree and disagree. You will want a single stage they come in handy for setting up loads, swgging, bullet pulling, and short runs. And if you plan on getting into competition where you are shooting the hair off a knat then a single stage and all the little gauges and do-dads to get match ammo. If your just hunting shooting targets even out 500+yrds a progressive will make great ammo, and do it a lot faster.

That being said you can run a lot of bad ammo out pretty fast also if not paying real close attention to your set up. You can run a 100rnds out in ten minutes and come to find out that they won't fit in your magazine. Gotta run them all again. Set them to deep now you have to pull 100rnds and start over.

...point taken.

I'm considering the LNL AP not just for .223, but also for .45 and 9MM.
I'll be reloading not just for myself, but wife too.

In order to keep costs reasonable (one press), I'm heavily weighing on the LNL. However, I am no where near an expert (obviously!) I'll consider any logic in this area.

Thanks,
mike
 
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