Rebarrelling Savage Model 10

[Riss]

Have to go through steps to make sure Im not missing anything. Doing first rebarrll and dont want too mess anything up. Can anyone run me through the little tips on getting the gauges to be set correctly. Not just that the gauges are too loose or too tight but onthe money. Only use factory ammo and will set it and leave it alone once I get the barrel nut back on.

 

[Badger Arms]

The Savage does not require that you use the barrel nut. You can use the same procedures as you use with the Remington 700 and just cut a shoulder on the barrel. Much more conventional. Not sure, but I might have a picture of mine... a .358 Winchester job.

 

[Badger Arms]

Here we go.

 

[Riss]

OK. Now how tight should the gauges be when tightening the barrel. Have felt the difference between noting, a gauge and a case prior to taking the barrel off. Any little tips to look for?

 

[4 eyed six shooter]

Riss, Screw the barrel in with a go guage in the chamber and the bolt fully closed. Remove the extractor from the bolt head and make sure the chamber is clean before starting. When you feel resistance as the guage is pushed against the bolt head, back off the barrel slightly until there is no resistance when working the bolt. Remove the go guage and replace it with the no go guage. The bolt should close slightly but not all the way on the no go guage. Tighten the barrel nut and check again with the go and no go guage. What you are looking for is the bolt to close fully on the go guage with no resistence and the bolt not to fully close on the no go guage. If the bolt closed on the no go, you will have excessive headspace, which is dangerous. If the bolt will not fully close on the go guage, you have the headspace too tight which is not good either.
Hope that answers your question, John K

 

[9mmepiphany]

badger arms - very nice rifle, very clean looking indeed.

if you don't need to use the barrel nut, what is it for? that "look" is the only thing that "puts me off" the savage.

 

[Badger Arms]

The barrel nut is a time and labor saving device. It takes less time and labor to install the barrel with the barrel nut than with more traditional shoulder. No precision shoulder has to be cut. You only have to screw the barrel into the actioin until it stops on the headspace guage, slip on the recoil lug, and tighten the nut. To make the barrel, just rifle, cut, taper, thread and chamber instead of adding the precision shoulder as a later step. I don't make them, but this is the way it was explained to me and it makes more sense than anything else I've heard.

 

[9mmepiphany]

that does make sense...it does seem like a more efficient way to do it...i just grew up with the look of the 700. i even thought the 788 looked strange...it must just be me