ReBlue, Dura-coat?

[RedAlert]

I just bought a Belgum made Browning Hi-Power pistol in 9mm. The front strap and back strap of the grip is pitted and the rest of the blueing is sort of "Thin" in appearance. The serial number, starts with "T."

My question is should I retain the pistol as is, re-blue it or even Dura-Coat it? I must admit that I'm not a collector for the value of the weapons I own, rather a user who appreciates the appearance of them.

Ralph

 

[bluetopper]

If it were mine I would attack the pitting with the sanding wheel on my dremel ever so lightly till the pitting is gone then sand it by hand with the finest sandpaper I could find to a near mirror finish.
Then I would disassemble and then soak it in vinegar for about 45 mins to take the bluing off then take it to my local smith and have him hot blue it for $80.
That's me.......my local smith does great bluing. I don't like coating, it's like painting your gun. I like the beauty of the metal to be shown. And on a Belgian made Browning, I'm sure it's beautiful.

 

[Oro]

I'm not a collector for the value of the weapons I own, rather a user who appreciates the appearance of them.

I pretty much agree with parisite. If it's a nice BHP, it deserves better than paint - and you said you appreciate the "appearance." If you don't want to prep it yourself, find someone who will - that's what gunsmith's do (among other things).

Actually, RDF, I see you aren't terribly far away. I'm searching for someone locally to hot blue a frame for me, if I find one I'll let you know if I am successful. Shipping a gun away for a really top-flight blue job is about a $300 proposition. I'm trying to find someone locally more affordable for a non "collector grade" job, myself.

 

[woad_yurt]

Blue, baby, blue!

 

[rklessdriver]

Do NOT get a sanding wheel or Dremel tool anywhere near the front strap of that Browning... It's thin enough already.

If you really want it to look like new, then send it Ford's.

http://www.fordsguns.com/

If you want a darn near impossible to damage finish that will look like new for ever then have it Hard Chromed or something like Metallife.

http://www.mahovskysmetalife.com/
Will

 

[easyrider604]

hard chrome

 

[makarovnik]

Just a personal preference but I like bluing. Duracoat is good though, especially if you can bake it on without warping your frame. Don't bake a polymer frame! Duracoat works almost as good without baking.

Bluing is much easier to get off than Duracoat.

 

[krs]

Duracoat doesn't require baking at all. It's just like Sherwin-Williams house paint.

 

[Eyesac]

I'd sand by hand (no dremel unless you're a stud) and call around for gunsmiths who blue for cheap...

 

[makarovnik]

Baking works better but is not required. I think I said that on my original post.

 

[kentucky_smith]

If it's going to be a high-use shooter, I'd either hard chrome it, or a black melonite or teflon finish. (I prefer dark over shiny).

www.coalcreekarmory.com


Look at this guy's experience with melonite:

http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=5&f=49&t=73182




.

 

[bannockburn]

RDF

My brother had a Browning Hi-Power about 25 years ago that started to develop a surface rust problem. I sent it off for him to Ron Mahovsky for his Metalife finish, and it came back looking like a stainless steel Hi-Power. And after all these years, it still looks as good as the day I got it back from being plated. If a matte to slightly shiny silver finish that is incredibly tough with a high surface hardness, is what you want, then Metalife is your answer.

 

[RedAlert]

Thanks all for your input. When I get home I'll do a complete tear down and clean/adjust. Then shoot it some and decide how much I want to fuss with it. I may just leave it as is, or I may get it refinished. I only paid $200 for it so I have some lea-way on what I can do and still keep it as a reasonable investment.

Ralph