Recoil reducing muzzle brake that doesn't irritate other shooters

[B M-P]

Thanks for the info.

I thought that was the case in CA having read the regs for work quite a few times, but I am always hopeful for a loop hole.

I'm trying to reduce the weight/length/recoil of the rifle (2A 7.26) for hunting and so that my wife can shoot if comfortably (more than once).

Is 5/8-28 the standard muzzle thread?

 

[dubbleA]

Depending on caliber, 1/2"x28 and 5/8"x24 are standard rifle muzzle threads. Of course there are other less common threads used.

 

[Swampman]

B M-P,
"Standard" in the US (not that there's really an official standard that I'm aware of) for rifles is 1/2"x28 for .22 and smaller rim and centerfires and 5/8"x24 for larger calibers up to .30 cal. When you get into imported rifles, things can get a bit confusing. 7.62x39 AK's for instance have a 14x1 metric, LEFT hand thread. The manufacturer of my .30 cal suppressor specifically says NOT to use Locktite or Rocksett on the QD mounts, so unless you torque the mount down tightern' Dick's hatband (also not recommended), you end up screwing the mount OFF as you screw the suppressor ON.
I just keep a small crescent wrench with some electrical tape on the jaws handy these days.

 

[Ranb]

I am looking for a muzzle brake for my .308 bolt and would like to reduce the recoil, but I would like to avoid blasting those around me (and my own hearing).

Make or buy a silencer.

if you really want to be courteous, i recommend getting a plastic barrel or box and cut holes out of each end so you can shoot through it. line it with sound dampening foam.

This is effective. I made one from three foam filled steel doors that tamed the blast from my 50 bmg rifle. It eventually succumbed to the muzzle blast and I am working on built from steel drums.

That probably meets the legal definition of a silencer.

While it could, according to the BATE it does not. When I was trying to determine if WA RCW 9.41.250 prohibited the use of these boxes (the local DA said it would) my local Rep requested I write the ATF and ask them. They replied below.



Unless a person is arrested and charged with violating the law concerning the use of an unregistered silencer for using an unattached box, we will not know what the courts think. I think I am safe enough using a box having the BATFE letter in hand. The Kitsap County prosecuting attorney also says it would be impossible for him to prosecute anyone for using a shooting box in Kitsap County

Ranb

 

[x_wrench]

well, going back to the ORIGINAL question, i would recommend a "Gentry Quiet " muzzle brake. there is no rocket science to it, it is not magical in anyway. what makes it different from most is the holes are drilled to vent the gasses (and some of the noise) FORWARD, away from the shooter and directing it down range. i had one installed on my Marlin Guide Gun. between the relatively light weight of the rifle, and the amount of recoil that comes with full power (not trapdoor) loads, this thing wanted to literally jump right out of my hands. the m.b. helped this issue tremendously. and when i shoot this out in the woods (no ranges close by), even without any hearing protection, i notice zero noise increase. i am sure that the woods do a fine job of absorbing a lot of the noise. but to have a zero increase has to say something about the brake itself.

 

[rc109a]

While I knw this is a little expensive, after shooting the rifle and being next to it shooting for over a week it works great. It directed the recoil away from the shooter as well as the gas. I was able to keep the muzzle on target with very little rise. Shooting next to it was pretty tolerable as well.
http://http://noveskerifleworks.com/cgi-bin/imcart/display.cgi?item_id=kx368762&cat=141&page=1&search=&since=&status=&title=

 

[Art Eatman]

To deal with recoil when shooting from a bench rest, I suggest getting a high-quality recoil pad installed. A shoulder pad on the shooting shirt or shooting jacket is a common aid.

My trick when testing heavier cartridges like the .300 Win Mag is to interpose a small sand bag between the butt pad and my shoulder. It adds about a pound to the weight of the rifle, and spreads the recoil across a wider area of my shoulder. Makes "biggies" painless.

 

[mtrmn]

Here you go, in light of attempting to stay on track with the OP:
http://www.kiesfirearms.com/Parts_and_Accessories.html

About halfway down the page

This is the only linear brake I've been able to find for anything bigger than .223. I do not own one, I own a YHM suppressor...but that is a very expensive and PITA way to accomplish your goal. Well worth it to me, but not everybody....

 

[HKGuns]

.308's aren't known for being huge recoiling rifles. Depending on the weight of the rifle, of course, a .308 should be more than tolerable in the recoil department. I have a light .308 and it is quite comfortable to shoot.

My suggestion is to shoot it more and become accustomed to the recoil.

 

[Kachok]

How long have you been shooting your 308? I have owned two featherweight 308s and neither one of them was hard kicking even for a little guy like me. I would advise you to invest in a good recoil pad for your rifle or a PAST shoulder pad those really take the edge off of magnum cartrages. Muzzle breaks are a last resort for very high recoil rifles, they greatly increase noise, and they increase the rifle length which can be a pain in the butt if you hunt in the woods.

 

[Kiln]

Keep in mind that the rules can be interpreted in many ways and it could or could not be in your favor. For instance a shoestring is considered a full auto conversion when rigged to certain rifles in certain ways.

 

[jogar80]

As I stated earlier, I have used this, and it does work.

http://www.edwardsrecoilreducer.com/

 

[Shawn Dodson]

BattleComp

http://battlecomp.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6&products_id=3

 

[readyeddy]

A 308 doesn't need a muzzle brake. Not enough recoil.

 

[jogar80]

A 308 doesn't need a muzzle brake. Not enough recoil.

I disagree, totally. Depending on the weight of the rifle, stock design, etc.... a .308 could really need a brake. I have a remmy 700P in .308 I shoot all day long, doesn't even have a buttpad, no problem. I shoot a remy 700 bdl in 30-06 with 220gr bullets. Also no buttpad, also no problem. A have a browning x-bolt micro-hunter in .308 that was making me develop a flinch, even with light 150gr bullets. Nasty kick and pretty good muzzle flip. I put a brake and a recoil reducer and now its a joy to shoot. Point is, if the OP feels he needs a brake or something, then he needs a brake or something.

 

[B M-P]

Thanks for all the good info.

The reason I want to reduce the recoil is that I would like my wife to be able to shoot it more than once and I would like to avoid the purple shoulder after a box or two at the range.

Just for the record it is an A2 SMLE with a 18" barrel and an aluminum butt plate. I'd like to keep the butt plate unless I can find a pad that is hinged to allow access to the compartment in the stock.

Does the Edwards reducer work better than just adding the equivalent weight to the rifle?

I'll look into the linear breaks.

Alas, A supressor would be great but the PRC(alifornia) doesn't thing I need one.

 

[madcratebuilder]

"Standard" in the US (not that there's really an official standard that I'm aware of) for rifles is 1/2"x28 for .22 and smaller rim and centerfires and 5/8"x24 for larger calibers up to .30 cal.

You well find 3/4X28 used with some small caliber heavy bull barrels.

To the OP, the "pepper pot" style of muzzle brakes offer some reduced recoil without the concussion found on some.

The Linear brakes like the Levang comp do little for recoil reduction. They are more about noise reduction, directing noise away from the shooter.

Get the wife a recoil should pad, several very good choices on the market. I shoot dozens of different rifles and found this to be the best option to control recoil. Control the shoulder and not the rifle.