Recurve bow - limbs

[shadow9]

Is it normal for a TD Recurve bow to have a few tenths of an inch of play in the limbs when unstrung? It seems that with the screw tightened down (not enough to gouge the brass or crack the limb) the upper limb can "wiggle" a bit on the riser, as if the indexing pin is smaller than the hole it goes into.

When strung, however, the wiggle goes away, or at least I can't make it move. is the bow still accurate or safe, or should it go back?

 

[Shanghai McCoy]

Some of the target bows are like that. You should check with the manufacturer to make sure though.

 

[wheelgunslinger]

It should go back.
There shouldn't be any movement discernible when the limbs are torqued down.

 

[shadow9]

FWIW bow is a Samick Red Stag. I read on the Hoyt website that their bows use a "dovetail system" that allows the limbs to move back and forth when unstrung, but tighten down when strung. Hoyt FAQ

The Red Stag seems to lock the limbs in when strung, and the hole that the indexing pin goes into seems to bowl/taper in at the top - with a slight bevel on the indexing pin. I'm wondering if it's a modification on the Hoyt system.

 

[Shanghai McCoy]

Looking at a picture of a Red stag takedown and it does not look like it should have any limb movement when bolted in. It seems to be a wooden riser with limb bolts.
There are some metal riser bows that the limbs just snap into place and they are loose when unstrung.

 

[shadow9]

*update*

Talked to Lancaster Archery - Red Stag TD bows, like all Samick recurve TD bows, are not supposed to have ANY play in the limbs when the limb bolts are tightened. Bow is en route back to them under warranty.

 

[shadow9]

*Second Update*

Got a call back from Lancaster - they were unable to make the limbs move - turns out I wasn't tightening the bolts down enough - when their recurve tech tightened them with the allen wrench, they tightened right up. Sending the bow back now.

For the record, I've been using a 3/8 drive 3/16 socket wrapped in Grip Tape as a "finger-tight" knob to tighten the screws - apparently you need to use an actual 3/16 allen wrench, which should have come with the kit (but did not). Turn till it tightens against the brass (bottoms out), then go ~1/4" beyond that.

 

[nmlongbow]

I'm surprised you couldn't get it tight enough with the socket method. I've owned lot's of T/D's and all needed just light pressure to secure the limbs. Some of my bows just have knurled knobs to turn by hand and another has antler burrs epoxied to the bolt that can't be cranked too tight.

Be careful when tightening those bolts with an allen wrench. Limbs can split near the bolt hole from over tightening and the crack can run all the way up the limb.

Lancaster is a good place to do business with.

 

[shadow9]

I'm surprised you couldn't get it tight enough with the socket method. I've owned lot's of T/D's and all needed just light pressure to secure the limbs. Some of my bows just have knurled knobs to turn by hand and another has antler burrs epoxied to the bolt that can't be cranked too tight.

Be careful when tightening those bolts with an allen wrench. Limbs can split near the bolt hole from over tightening and the crack can run all the way up the limb.

Lancaster is a good place to do business with.

That limb split is what I'm afraid of - hence using the socket and finger tight method (figuring if it works for the knurled/knob Sage bows, it'd work for this). But, if Lancaster techs say that's too light, so be it...