Redhawk 357 usefull space

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kanook

kanook

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My NMBH cylinder measures 1.642, my Redhawk cylinder measures 1.754. The difference is .112 . With all the things that the Ruger can handle, has anybody cut down 357max brass to be longer than the 357mag brass to utilize the extra space that the Redhawk has?
 
I don't think any loads for the 357mag are compressed so you would have no reason to do so. Also it sounds like danger.
 
No.- But I have seated the 180 XTP slugs to the rear groove to make a little more room.

I won't post exact data, but 2400 and Vit N110 work well here.

Do not pursue this unless you have and know how to use a chrono. Of course use all due caution should you decide to stray from published data.
 
The reason for my question is, I have been drooling over the 356 gnr for some time now. I will be able to push the 180 to around 1700 and 1800 fps.

Just wondering if with the longer cylinder length I would be able to come close.
 
If you know what you are doing, you can seat the bullets longer to match the cylinder (as already posted), and make use of the extra space. And, as already posted as well, proceed with caution.
 
please read the first sentence stating that it is the 356 gnr that is capable of 1700 to 1800. Or are you saying that you have that conversion and can't reach that? Or are you saying that you have tried what I'm thinking and can't reach it?

Maybe I'm thinking or saying it wrong. The 357 max is capable of over 1800 with a 180 grain bullet. So my pondering was since the Redhawk cylinger is much thicker than the max cylinder but not as long, the 357max brass is longer than the 357mag, would it be possible to safely make an intermediate size to more than the mag but not the max?

If I do the gnr conversion, that is all it will shoot. I would rather get the most out of a custom length brass that is available for a load that could not be placed into a regular revlover vs a new cylinder and custom formed brass.

My question was to see if someone has done and found it safe or dangerous. I see that some have left more bullet out to reach more fps. If it has been done safely, I will try it slowly. If it was found dangerous, well I guess I will wait to do the conversion. Maybe i'm looking too deep into this and overlooking the picture.

Before I forget, Thanks for the replies in this little quest. Any help is better than nothing.
 
If I remember it was the light 125 loads that caused problems. I'm sure I will be corrected if I'm wrong.
 
If you stay at or above 140 grain slugs when going fast, flame cutting isn't an issue.

Kanook- In my 357 redhawk with 180 seated to the rear groove, it pretty much fills the cylinder, I might be able seat it a little more shallow in the case, but not enough to make much difference, and you lose the crimp groove.

I can run 1550fps safely, but it's a maximum effort load, I tried for more, but there just isn't enough case capacity to get enough slow burning powder in there, and going to a faster powder leads to wild velocitiy spreads and sticky cases..........

At least in my gun.

I have been looking at the 357/44 B&D conversion myself......:D
 
Kanook, I believe that although the cylinder might be longer in your Ruger, it's still cut for the standard .357 Magnum case length (1.290" according to Speer) with a small lip where a standard-length case should end.

The only way to effectively utilize that extra .112" cylinder length is to seat your bullet with a longer COL than normal, or use a lead bullet (like the Keith 170gr SWC) that's designed to be loaded longer than a standard .357 Magnum. By seating the bullet out farther than normal, you free up "boiler room" space in the case for more powder.

How much more powder is up to you, but please be careful. Anything beyond "Ruger Only" loads is at your own risk.
 
Now I'm starting to get it. Somethings can be explained 100 times differently and it seems that the 1 in a 100 has been posted.

I have been loading for about 14 yrs but never pushed the max. and never left the book. I have a 460 S&W but I love the 357. I know it will not compete but it will do the same (harvest animal) if I do my part. The longest shot might be 100yds and I just want all it can do. I have also notice that I need to change powder. My loading has been with unique for all this time. Time for a change.

I have been looking at the 357/44 B&D conversion myself......
Click to expand...
one sold on gb for around I think 450 -500 not long ago. The gnr says he has no case setback problems.

Again thanks all for your help.
 
I'm jealous AH-1. Beautiful, just beautiful.

I have 2 out of 4.

I need Redhawks in .357 & .45 Colt . Someday....... someday. :)
 
I walked in to a local shop and it was sitting there NIB!!!.my wife just handed me the check book as I have been looking for one now for years.the 5 1/2" barrel is a pleasure to shoot.the 358429 173 gr swc orginal square groove mold I found on a trader board for 25.00;););).I would like a 41 mag next.

pete
 
One of my babies. :D

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seein those 173's make me feel all warm inside. I got a 180 mold that I waiting on a set of handles for.

It kinda nice to see how different the Redhawk looks just by using a different type of stock wood.

My wife looked in a guncase and pointed at the Redhawk and asked me "didn't you want one of those?" Is $485 a good price? I looked at her, and she was getting her wallet out and asked me to try to get a better deal. We agreed on $450 OTD. Not a bad day.
 
I've got redhawks in 357, 41, 44, and 45 colt. My most accurate one is one of the stainless 7.5 inchers in 41.

Off a rest and sandbags, it'll run the 220 Speer slug, or a home cast KTSWC cast from wheel weights that drops at 230 into an inch @25 yards all day long.

The 45 colt with a 300 XTP launched by N110 is showing promise as well.
 
Hey, kanook-

Did you get ther answers you were looking for?

If so, and you've decided the shallow seating route, I suggest 2400 for the powder, it behaves fairly predictably vs. others I've tried pushing the envelope with.

I also suggest starline, federal, or winshester cases, in that order of preference.
 
I believe it has been answered. I think I need to play with different powders and contact my friend to borrow his chrono again. The powders seem to be a toss up. I'm gonna get a couple more books too.
 
Absolutely!! Don't ever go monkeying around with non-standard powder charges and seating depths like that without a chrono to map velocities. Felt recoil will not give you near enough of an idea what's going on.

Watch for any signs of high pressure of course.

From a lot of experience pushing the envelope with the 357 magnum, let me give you this advice:

In that small 357 case, I recomend powder charges be changed .2 grains at a time. Pressure signs will start showing or the chrono will tell you ENOUGH before you're in trouble. Going faster than that, say a half grain at a time will take you from OK to OH #$@$ without warning.
 
kanook, the cartridge you are looking for is called the .360 Dan Wesson. It is the .357 Magnum lengthened to 1.41". Brass was available from Starline but production is currently on hold. Extending the chambers can be done with a .357 Maximum cylinder reamer and limiting how far you insert the reamer into the cylinder. It will not effect your ability to use either .357 Magnum or .38 Special ammo. Seating the Hornady 180gr XTP to the lower crimp groove in the Magnum case does almost the same thing as using the longer case. This Magnum case/lower groove combo is less than .010" shorter than the 1.41" case/upper groove combo, if I remember right. The Lyman #358627 215gr SWC also has two crimp grooves and can be done the same way. Load data can be found here:
http://www.handloads.com/loaddata/loadlist.asp
http://www.lasc.us/RangingShotDanWesson360Revolver.htm
http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m0BTT/is_155_26/ai_80616520/

Another load used by Todd Spotti is 18.1gr of Hodgdon's Lil' Gun or the same amount of Scots 4100:
http://www.lasc.us/RangingShot13-5.htm

Note: Shortening .357 Maximum brass will require case reaming due to the thickness of the brass. On a personal note; I'd like to know what load recipe, and what weapon, you mention reaching 1800+ fps with a .357 Maximum and 180gr bullet. I think you might be looking at Contender velocities; not revolver velocities.
 
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