Redneck zero method (anyone else done this)

Status
Not open for further replies.
B

bigalexe

Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2009
Messages
931
Location
SE Michigan
I am posting because I am curious if anyone else has done this.

I went out to the range I am a member of yesterday with the task of sighting in the scope on my new/used .22 rifle. I setup 3 targets each 8.5" x 11" paper side by side (so my total target area was 25.5" x 11") at 50 yards and after the first 8 rounds the targets were empty, obviously I suck at scope mounting.

This particular range I was on has a mostly dirt backstop burm at about 105yds from the shooting line, and luckily it was pretty dry, also I was alone.

So my solution to having a scope so far off was to back out the scope dials pretty far to the right and high side because the factory left them centered. Then zoomed back out to 3x zoom and just started popping dirt clods. I went and zeroed the vertical first and then the Left/Right axis by watching where my clouds were popping up relative to the clods and grass patches I was aiming at. I continued doing this until the clouds I was making were obscuring the middle of my crosshair, at that point I moved back onto my paper setup and was exactly level and 2 inches to the right.

I can say that actually shooting up dirt clods works quite well because when I started shooting the rounds were going probably 2 feet off where I was aiming and I was still able to see them hit quite clearly. The only downside is that I went through TONS of ammo this way and were I using anything but a .22LR I would have a very empty pocketbook. I think I went through 100 rounds by the time I was done.

Anyone else had situations where your initial zero is nowhere near your target? How did you solve the problem? Anyone else done this?
 
...zoomed back out to 3x zoom and just started popping dirt clods. I went and zeroed the vertical first and then the Left/Right axis by watching where my clouds were popping up relative to the clods and grass patches I was aiming at. I continued doing this until the clouds I was making were obscuring the middle of my crosshair....
Click to expand...
That's exactly how I've done it if I don't have a spotter.

Another way is to shoot at the ground a few yards in front of you and walk it out to the range where your target is, making the necessary adjustments to keep the hits in the scope's view as the range increases.

I usually get my zero dialed in at 25y before attempting longer range, then verify my final zero at the longest distance possible at the range I'm at.
 
I swap optics between 3-4 firearms several times a year, I have PIC rails on them so zero is pretty close. Quite often I will re-zero at 20 yards to keep the bullets on the paper, adjust the scope then move back to 50 yards, 100 yards. This saves alot of ammo and time.
 
well, it works. But it uses up ammo, and sometimes that can get real expensive.

I usually boresight them to got them on paper, then groups of 3 to zero. If it's not on paper at 100, I move it back to 25, fire one shot, and make calculated adjustments. Fire one more shot, and if it's close to bullseye-minus-mounting height, I take the target back out to 100 and zero for whatever range it's to be used at based on ballistic calculations. After that, if I'm on a range that has the distance, I'll move the target to my zero distance and fire a few groups.
 
Have used similar approaches. The main thing to consider at that point is safety. I haved use the dirt and leaves on the berm. Water works but you have to be way more aware of where the bullet can go. No disrepect to the OP - I think he was aware of the safety issue.

At 1 range the backer is 6'x6' and we cover the whole back with white paper to see new holes. On really windy days it helps. It is pretty nice even on smaller/closer backers just to have only your bullet holes showing. That range has target pits on the 600. If you have a set of radios somebody can spot from about 3 feet in front of target. That range has a rule about no bullets hitting anywhere but the backstop. The ground there is supposedly very conducive to ricochets.

I like to mount a scope on a .22 the first time I shoot it. Price of ammo being the issue.
 
I normally eyeball the optics first, and get them roughly in line with the barrel before even taking it to the range. This will usually get me on the paper out to 25 to 50 yards.
 
I set A rifle in A rest then look through the bore at A window on an old shed about 50 yds away. Then without moving the rifle move the reticle to the target. Gets me on paper at 50 every time.
 
The easiest zero with a bolt rifle, is to mount the rifle on sandbags, pull the bolt and look through the bore. Adjust your rifle until the 100 yard target is exactly centered in the bore. Then adjust your scope to that same point, looking alternately through the bore and the scope as you make adjustments. The smaller the caliber, or longer the barrel, the more precise you'll be. With a large bore or short barrel, maybe use a 50 yard target for this. In either case, you'll be on paper and usually with 6" of the bull.

This only works on bolt rifles of course, but it's really a waste of money to buy a bore sighting device or pay somebody to bore sight a bolt action rifle when this is so easy to do. It's certainly cheaper than shooting up half a box of ammo!
 
Last edited:
Too much ammo your way!

If I can't get it bore sighted, I'll take the bolt out like the last guy said. After that, start shooting, beginning with the target 25 yards out. I also use a L A R G E target. The most I've ever had to fire at 25 yards was 5 rounds. Then I back out to 50 yards and re-zero. Get it there, back it out to 100 which is where I stay. (Knock on wood)... It's rare I can't get it centered within 15 rounds.

I'm betting someone on here has a better method!
 
bigalexe said:
I am posting because I am curious if anyone else has done this.

So my solution to having a scope so far off was to back out the scope dials pretty far to the right and high side because the factory left them centered. Then zoomed back out to 3x zoom and just started popping dirt clods. I went and zeroed the vertical first and then the Left/Right axis by watching where my clouds were popping up relative to the clods and grass patches I was aiming at. I continued doing this until the clouds I was making were obscuring the middle of my crosshair, at that point I moved back onto my paper setup and was exactly level and 2 inches to the right.

I can say that actually shooting up dirt clods works quite well because when I started shooting the rounds were going probably 2 feet off where I was aiming and I was still able to see them hit quite clearly. The only downside is that I went through TONS of ammo this way and were I using anything but a .22LR I would have a very empty pocketbook. I think I went through 100 rounds by the time I was done.

Anyone else had situations where your initial zero is nowhere near your target? How did you solve the problem? Anyone else done this?
Click to expand...

It's called Kentucky windage and it is a fairly common practice.
 
Another vote for the poor mans bore sighting technique. Although unlike TenDriver I don't bother with the 50 yard shots. I go straight from 25 to 100.

I had to sight in both the irons and scope on my CZ-550 Medium (9.3x62mm) once. I took 22 rounds to do that, including 6 shots (2x three shot groups) at the end to confirm zero. Thank goodness it didn't require any more than that. My shoulder hurt for a couple days afterwards. Plus even with reloads its over $1 per round. If all goes well I will shoot 2-3 rounds at 25 yards, and then another 2-4 rounds at 100 yards. Then however many groups I'm up to shooting to confirm that everything is working consistently.
 
Last week I put a new scope on a push feed M-70 Win in 6.5x55mm.

I have a red plastic pie plate stapled to a spruce tree 100 yards from my shop. I just pull the bolt and sandbag the rifle with the pie plate being seen dead center down the bore. then move the crosshair to the pie plate as well.

First time on the range , I just fire at the mud bank or a white rock to see where the impact may be, while adjusting the scope to the target.

In MacBrides excellent book of WWI long range sniping and machine gunning,
( A Rifleman Goes to War ) he talks about shooting at water puddles at super long ranges to get his range set into his scope. Then waiting until a target showed up in the desired area...
 
Wow I wish I had thought of pulling the bolt out and setting the rifle on sandbags, that is a pretty decent method.

As far as safety goes, just to calm the fears... the Burm I was shooting at is large, it is something that you could probably sled down in the winter time pretty well and is definitely thick enough to take the shots. I was most concerned about a ricochet off a rock because it is a natural hill for the most part with some fill dirt but that's why the boards are up at the top of the hill.

I will confess I was going to setup at 25 yds and then out at 50 but the staple gun I had was very empty. Given only a few staples I elected to put targets at 50 yards when I started, not knowing how far off the scope really was.
 
On 22 caliber, I suggest zeroing at 15 feet (not a typo), then at 75 feet. The 75 feet will put you very close to 100 yard zero.
 
Sure. Shoot something on that big berm to see where it is hitting. Then adjust.
 
I was smart enough years ago to buy a boresighting set,and have a scope set to hit paper before it leaves the house. Only takes a couple shots at the range to dial it in,and spent about $30 on the boresighting set.

It has more than paid for itself over the years.
 
I get all my rifles on paper this way..sometimes in 1 shot

Toss a clay out on the 100yd shale backstop,

shoot at it on low magnification and note the bullet splash.

Adjust the crosshairs from the "target" to the divot.

Shoot clay to confirm

Final ZERO by shooting groups on paper

I have a boresighter kit and without exception it's the most worthless piece of gun equipment I've ever used. You MIGHT be on at 25 (doubtfull any more so than not boresighting at all) with a borresighting but at 100....no way aside from pure dumb luck
 
Last edited:
Looking through the bore to boresight is a great idea if you can, but keep in mind that not all rifles let you look through the bore.

You can't look through the bore on a lever action, a Marlin 60 or Springfield M1A for example.
 
I got a large piece of cardboard, shot, found the shot, painted it for visibility, then dialed the scope into the shot. Re aimed and shot large groups, paint again, and dialed into the center of the largest concentration of holes. Worked like a charm :)
 
This is very simple and works well.............

Bore sight at 25 yards using whatever method suits you. (Personally I use a laser that fits into the muzzle.)

This should get you on paper at 100 yards if done properly.

Fire one shot at aiming point, preferably centered on a piece of paper about 18"x18", note the bullet POI.

Using a rest, move your rifle so the rifle's scope again is centered on the aiming point.

Without moving the rifle, peer through the scope and adjust the windage and elevation to the first bullet's impact..

Fire another round. This should be very close to the aiming point if done properly.

Fire a 3rd shot to comfirm.

Your done, the rifle should be sighted in with 3 shots.

Fine tuning may be needed dependng on how precise you were with the above steps,your rifle's accuracy and your shooting ability.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

D
  • Locked
Zeroing a scope by yourself
Replies
23
Views
1K
erict
E
J
  • Locked
Best yardage to zero scope- for 300yrds
Replies
16
Views
4K
rcmodel
R
B
  • Locked
Pls recommend scope mount for Leuopld 4X on black rifle
Replies
1
Views
296
briansmithwins
B
S
  • Locked
Doing an improved battlesight zero: The smaller details
Replies
0
Views
469
Simon Yu
S
S
  • Locked
Good day at the range
Replies
0
Views
280
sohcgt2
S
Back
Top