Refinishing AR-15 FSB help wanted

[BSA1]

I am looking for some guidance. I am finishing up building a light(er) weight AR carbine and looking to shave a little more weight I am considering removing the useless bayonet lug on the FSB. I have no concerns about removing it but I wonder what is the best way to protect the raw steel from rust.

Cold blue? Not very durable. I do have Oxy blue on hand which is one of the better products.

Probably some kind of paint and just spray the whole FSB. What kind of paint to use? How well will rattle can paint hold up?

Will Brownells Aluma-Hyde work on steel?

How about having the FSB ceracoated? The barrel is nitrated.

 

[greyling22]

My experience with alumahyde was that it is basically bedliner when it comes to texture. I painted a fsb with BBQ grill paint. Held up fine, but it was an a2 sight I cut down and put under a handguard, so it didn't get much abuse.

 

[ApacheCoTodd]

I'd just hit it with several applications of Oxpho-Blue. The courser the surface beforehand, the better. FSPs are of a sufficient grade of steel that it is not likely to be horrendously attacked by corrosion anyhow.

I have two rifles that I mocked up with the FSPs in *the raw* and just didn't feel like disassembling to address them nor re-hit the entire barrel assembly. All these years - still no corrosion to speak of.

Todd.

 

[BSA1]

Thanks for the replies.

Tomorrow after work I am taking it the maintenance shop and for better or worse I am taking a hacksaw and grinder to the lug.

As I have a can of Brownells Aluma—Hyde matte black I may paint it down in my basement.

 

[Rule3]

Several coats of Oxy Blue will work, Heck you can even then paint it with Aluma Hyde. It is good paint if the Matt Black matches you "decor" I painted a Ruger 10/22 with it (barrel, receiver)

 

[LoonWulf]

I'd honestly suggest rattle can black if all your doing is popping the bayonet lug. If done properly regular spray painted plenty durable enough for general use.
other wise one of the specific products would be a little better, but even cold blue and heavy oil will suffice

 

[ApacheCoTodd]

 

[BSA1]

Several coats of Oxy Blue will work, Heck you can even then paint it with Aluma Hyde. It is good paint if the Matt Black matches you "decor" I painted a Ruger 10/22 with it (barrel, receiver)

Sounds like a good plan. I have been warned about the powerful smell of Aluma-Hyde when using it indoors.

I'd honestly suggest rattle can black if all your doing is popping the bayonet lug. If done properly regular spray painted plenty durable enough for general use.

I have a can BROWNELLS Aluma-Hyde that is sitting in the cabinet. I brought it for a barrel project that I have never got around to doing. I figure might as well use it since I don’t know when I will get around to the barrel project. I tend to get off track on completing my projects. The ideal way for me is to paint both barrels at the same time when the weather gets warm again.

 

[AlexanderA]

How much weight do you save by grinding off the bayonet lug?

What is the distance between the lug and the flash hider? It needs to be 5" in order to mount a bayonet. If it is more or less, you can justify removing the lug for aesthetic purposes (since it is useless). But not to save weight.

 

[BSA1]

It is a carbine gas system so the lug is useless.

I won’t know how much weight is saved until I do it. The lug looks to be a substantial piece of steel so there will be a small reduction. Maybe a couple of grams?

I weighed all of the parts a while back in a cardboard box and packaging some of the parts are still in and it was a little over six pounds. Without the cardboard box and the lug it should be darn close to six pounds.

There is a video on YouTube showing someone removing the bayonet lug to make the AR New York compliant. (No bayonets in New York???) Rather crude sloppy job but it does show that there are no unseen problems with doing it.

I’ll try to get accurate before and after weights.

 

[BSA1]

Before - 2.8 lbs.
After - 2.6 lbs.

 

[MachIVshooter]

Do you have an HVLP sprayer? Norrell's moly resin is a very durable finish that will hold up to 1,000°F. Properties are very similar to Cerakote, but it can be applied thinner, and there's no screwing around with the consistency; just shake the bottle well, spray & bake.

 

[AK103K]

The Aluma Hyde II will work well and hold up better than most paints. The downside to it is, if you screw up, its likely not coming off short of a bead blast.

The only thing with AHII is, if you want a good job, you really need to follow the instructions. Degrease well and let it sit and fully cure. Put it down for a week and forget about it.

Ive painted a bunch of stuff over the years with it, guns, knives, even a bicycle frame, and all have held up well to constant use.

From past experience, paint is better than cold blue. Paint, of any kind, is actually a very good protectant of any finish. Ive been painting guns since the 60's, and have stripped guns 25 years down the road, that were used and exposed to all sorts of conditions on a daily basis, and the original blued finish underneath was still pristine. And that was just with paints like Testors and Krylon etc.

 

[BSA1]

Thanks. Due to it’s location I don’t expect much in the way of finish wear. Thinking more about rust protection when I am too lazy to wipe it down after shooting.

 

[kwg020]

Thanks. Due to it’s location I don’t expect much in the way of finish wear. Thinking more about rust protection when I am too lazy to wipe it down after shooting.

Alumahyde is great paint but if the can has set for a while you need to really shake it up as it tends to separate out. It also takes a couple of days for it to cure (not dry) solid. If you spray it again before it as totally cured it will curdle the previously sprayed Alumahyde. You can still remove Alumahyde with strong solvents like Lacquer thinner but it does dry tough. Alumahyde does have an "odor" but I have used it inside without too much lingering odor. I also warmed the can up to room temperature (72 to 74 degrees) and it sprayed on better. A warm temperature will help the paint cured faster but plan on 5 to 7 days at room temperature.

kwg

 

[Mosin Bubba]

From past experience, paint is better than cold blue. Paint, of any kind, is actually a very good protectant of any finish. Ive been painting guns since the 60's, and have stripped guns 25 years down the road, that were used and exposed to all sorts of conditions on a daily basis, and the original blued finish underneath was still pristine. And that was just with paints like Testors and Krylon etc.

Yep. I've cold blued a couple guns and have never been that happy with it, although Oxpho Blue is better than the rest. Cold blues do look better than paint, but if we're just talking about a spot probably the size of a nickel on the bottom of your barrel? I'd go Krylon all the way. Never used Alumahyde before, but if it's formulated for guns, that's even better.