Refinishing Question

[PowderApe]

I have recently acquired a Colt DA 1917 .45 revolver of WWI vintage from my brother-in-law. Some at some time in the past, some doofus went out and parkerized it. The parkerization was a pretty decent job and I can easily see the Colt rearing horse logo, serial numbers and other markings well. You can also see the old pits on the frame and cylinder, and it looks like it had minimal prep work prior to the parkerization job. Had I wanted to parkerize it, I would have at least abrasive blasted it to a uniform finish before parkerization!

Certainly, this weapon is not a collector variation and is simply a shooter. It's a blast with .45 ball and half moon/full moon clips- the original speed-loader! But... I do prefer blue and would have liked it better had it been left original.

My question is: Is there a practical way to remove parkerization and refinish it blue?? Can an amateur tinkerer like me do it? Is it a matter of a good bath in some secret "anti-parkerization" solution or is it more of a matter of mechanical buffing, elbow grease and polishing? (Which is what I suspect)

In all probability, I'll just leave it as is and keep it a shooter but it would have been nice to match my old blue Brazilian surplus S&W 1917 .45 !

 

[Jim Watson]

Hey, the doofus in question might have been the U.S. Army; they refurbished revolvers same as autos.

I never heard of any way to remove Parkerizing except by abrasion; it can be blasted, sanded, or buffed to bare metal same as for any other refinish preparation.

 

[rcmodel]

+1

Any further re-finishing again will no doubt be getting into the Prancing Pony & other markings pretty seriously.

I'd just leave it be, as it could be an original arsenal park job as Jim said.

They were not concerned with appearance and would not have necessarily removed any existing pits etc.

All they wanted to do was put a protective finish back on a well worn but very serviceable old warhorse.

rcmodel

 

[PowderApe]

Parkerization

It's not an arsenal refinish. The previous owner before my bro-in-law said that he had it done because he didn't like the pitting on the receiver.... It was done about 25-30 years ago. He said the guy selected a "low buck" job from a local 'smith because of the costs involved so he did minimal preparation and polishing prior to the parkerizing. It's actually a pretty good job- all things considered. Guess he originally wanted to re-blue it but it was out of his budgeted price range. :banghead:

It's a coarser finish than the typical GI parkerization (like my GI issue 1911A1) but consistent and uniform overall (if I figure out how to upload some pix, I'll do that!!) and I'm not really complaining but wanted to research the practicality of rebluing. Really don't want to lose the pony or the lettering due to buffing the finish off, even tho someone at sometime wore off the "USGOVERNMENT PROPERTY" stamp under the barrel itself. The word "PROPERTY" is still visible. Don't know if it was done by the gov't prior to release for surplus sale or a subsequent owner did it but I suspect the gov't because an owner would probably remove ALL the writing including the word "property". At the butt, the lanyard ring is present but the typical writing on the strap was either buffed off, worn off or otherwise just obscured with pitting- then refinished.

Like I said, it's a shooter and is fun to play with and will never be a candidate for any "gun museum" other than the inside of my safe! Tolerances are still rather tight but I'm assuming it's due to the parkerizing job. (I can see that it was at least disassembled prior to the dunking job.)

I see that Brownell's carries the "super juice" to parkerize. How does the actual job of parkerizing compare to hot bluing?? I'm assuming it's easier because or the coarser finish and therefore easier to hide imperfections.

BTW: is "Parkerization" and phosphorizing the same? I was always of the belief that it's the same just the technique/solution was trademarked by some now-very-rich gunsmith named Parker!! Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Thanks!

 

[rcmodel]

ParkerizingTM is either a Manganese Phosphate (dull gray color - and the orginial U.S. Military type finish), or zinc phosphate (charcoal-gray color ) crystalline structured coating that actually interacts with the steel surface it is applied to. Additionally, the zink phosphate type can be pre-treated to produce a true "black" finish.

Both types require a sand or bead blast finish on the steel before application to insure good adhesion and an even coating. Either type also etches into the steel as it is applied, and should not be used on critical surfaces, such as bores of match grade barrels, for instance.

It is applied in a high temperature liquid "bath" much like hot bluing, although the propriority chemical used is a one part pre-mixed solution unlike commercial bluing salts.

In either case, the Parkerized surface's porous structure lets it soak up oil to help prevent rust. It is believed by some that the gray-green color commonly seen on older U.S. military weapons is more the result of ageing and dried oils, dirt, and GI bore cleaner in the pores of the parkerizing then a true attempt to get a green finish to start with.

rcmodel

 

[wrevis]

My Rem. Model 700 police/military sniper's rifle came with a greenish tinge in the Parkerized finish straight from the factory. There weren't any aged oils or bore cleaners in that one.

Rev

 

[Jim Watson]

I think at least one Parkerizing spec calls for a zinc chromate dip. That might give it that sickly hue.