Ruger_Nut
Member
I have a nice SKS and I want to smooth out the stock, maybe strip it and refinish it. Looking for advice to strip it, and rub it down with something that will make it look nice.
Any suggestions?
Any suggestions?
Refinishing SKS Stock?
- Thread starter Ruger_Nut
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Firehand
Member
First thing will be to get all the oil-grease out of the wood. Do a search and you'll find all kinds of information on different methods for that.
Once completely degreased, sand/scrape/whatever to smooth the surface out, then the finish.
I've tried out a method a guy posted on 'the best oil finish ever' using Minwax Antique Oil Finish, search Minwax on this forum and you'll find it. Does a very nice job.
Once completely degreased, sand/scrape/whatever to smooth the surface out, then the finish.
I've tried out a method a guy posted on 'the best oil finish ever' using Minwax Antique Oil Finish, search Minwax on this forum and you'll find it. Does a very nice job.
RavenVT100
Member
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- Aug 18, 2004
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- 1,107
Did mine with oven cleaner. Worked out *very* well. (Yugo)
Long version: After stripping, I used formby's tung oil finish. Sanding between each coat with steel wool created a rich, smooth and shiny finish after about 9 coats.
Long version: After stripping, I used formby's tung oil finish. Sanding between each coat with steel wool created a rich, smooth and shiny finish after about 9 coats.
Ruger_Nut
Member
Well I hate to sound like an idiot, but how do I tell is it is Yugo, or whatever?
Here's a link to the simonov.net. It should give you the info to identify your SKS.
http://www.simonov.net/uberid.htm
http://www.simonov.net/uberid.htm
Matt Dillon
Member
Does it have a grenade launcher on the end, and grenade sights? Does it have a valve so that you can shut off the gas and turn it into a bolt action? If so, it is a Yugoslavian SKS.
If it turns out to be a Yugo, and if you wish to strip it, I would do in this order:
1. Get rid of every bit of cosmoline that you can find. I would clean metal, gun, take the stock off, clean it as best you can, then wrap it up in aluminum foil, place this into a black garbage bag, and sit it on the dashboard of a car in the warmest area you can find. This usually sweats a lot of the cosmoline out. Every couple of hours go out there, wipe off the cosmoline, then clean it very well with an orange or green cleaner, then put it back again for another couple of hours. Keep doing this until there is little or no cosmoline to be found.
2. Let it dry well for a couple of days, then get some paint stripper, strip the finish off (make sure and use rubber gloves, that stuff is nasty!) and use 0000 steel wool to get the finish off. Then wash it off with water and more green or orange stuff, let it sit and dry for 3-4 days, then you are ready to sand.
3. Sand it will, starting with ~200 grit, then progressing until you get to ~600 grit sandpaper.
4. To get a preview of what it might look like, after sanding, blow off or clean off all the dust, get some alcohol, and wipe it on to the stock. You can readily see any scratches that need to be sanded with finer paper, or any other small defects that you may not be able to see until AFTER you have dyed, stained, or finished it.
5. Once you have sanded it to your satisfaction, purchase an aniline dye of the color that you would like to use for your gun. Follow the instructions, making sure to mix the dye, testing a small region, then dye the rifle the color you would like. You will probably have to use at least 2 coats to get a uniform color.
6. Next I would use ~6 coats of Tung Oil. Please follow instructions, and allow each coat of Tung oil to dry for at least 24 hours before applying the next coat.
7. Finally, I like to finish by waxing the stock with Minwax paste wax and 000 steel wool. This protects the wood and really brings out the grain.
Hope this helps!
If it turns out to be a Yugo, and if you wish to strip it, I would do in this order:
1. Get rid of every bit of cosmoline that you can find. I would clean metal, gun, take the stock off, clean it as best you can, then wrap it up in aluminum foil, place this into a black garbage bag, and sit it on the dashboard of a car in the warmest area you can find. This usually sweats a lot of the cosmoline out. Every couple of hours go out there, wipe off the cosmoline, then clean it very well with an orange or green cleaner, then put it back again for another couple of hours. Keep doing this until there is little or no cosmoline to be found.
2. Let it dry well for a couple of days, then get some paint stripper, strip the finish off (make sure and use rubber gloves, that stuff is nasty!) and use 0000 steel wool to get the finish off. Then wash it off with water and more green or orange stuff, let it sit and dry for 3-4 days, then you are ready to sand.
3. Sand it will, starting with ~200 grit, then progressing until you get to ~600 grit sandpaper.
4. To get a preview of what it might look like, after sanding, blow off or clean off all the dust, get some alcohol, and wipe it on to the stock. You can readily see any scratches that need to be sanded with finer paper, or any other small defects that you may not be able to see until AFTER you have dyed, stained, or finished it.
5. Once you have sanded it to your satisfaction, purchase an aniline dye of the color that you would like to use for your gun. Follow the instructions, making sure to mix the dye, testing a small region, then dye the rifle the color you would like. You will probably have to use at least 2 coats to get a uniform color.
6. Next I would use ~6 coats of Tung Oil. Please follow instructions, and allow each coat of Tung oil to dry for at least 24 hours before applying the next coat.
7. Finally, I like to finish by waxing the stock with Minwax paste wax and 000 steel wool. This protects the wood and really brings out the grain.
Hope this helps!
97th Signalman
Member
SKS stock refinish
My Yugo 59/66 came with a teak stock as many of them did. After I cleaned off the preservative grease from my almost new rifle I used marine teak cleaner to clean the wood. I then used Teak Brightner to even out the color of the wood. The last step was to use marine Teak oil to finish the stock. I just rubbed in one coat a day for as many days as it took to get it looking the way I wanted (mine took three coats). From that time forward I will just apply a fresh coat of teak oil every year.
My Yugo 59/66 came with a teak stock as many of them did. After I cleaned off the preservative grease from my almost new rifle I used marine teak cleaner to clean the wood. I then used Teak Brightner to even out the color of the wood. The last step was to use marine Teak oil to finish the stock. I just rubbed in one coat a day for as many days as it took to get it looking the way I wanted (mine took three coats). From that time forward I will just apply a fresh coat of teak oil every year.
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Sunray
Member
Wood is wood. Use the same products and techniques used for fine furniture.
Tung oil, applied correctly, will give you a nice sheen. BLO will give you a flat finish.
Tung oil, applied correctly, will give you a nice sheen. BLO will give you a flat finish.
Oohrah
Member
Wow, Signalman what an outstanding job !!! Used some Scotts
Liquid Gold on some new wood (stain oil) from Boyd's that went on
some Garands (six). They came out simular to your SKS in appearence
Liquid Gold on some new wood (stain oil) from Boyd's that went on
some Garands (six). They came out simular to your SKS in appearence
mrmeval
Member
+1 Signalman
Wow, nice teak. In fact mine might be teak.
I cleaned and very lightly sanded mine. Then I just went over it with BLO and did the hand warmed rubbing. It does well but not as well as Signalmans.
Wow, nice teak. In fact mine might be teak.
I cleaned and very lightly sanded mine. Then I just went over it with BLO and did the hand warmed rubbing. It does well but not as well as Signalmans.
97th Signalman
Member
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