3 in 1+ Bushing
Howdy romulus and Draper,
Four questions is good...Saves bandwidth.
As far as I know, Brown, Wilson, and Caspian extractors are 4340,
and I'm not sure on the stainless extractors. 4340 is pretty good
if the heat treatment/tempering is good, but still not quite up to 1090.
If the steel is improperly tempered and drawn, it won't make much difference either way.
As for C&S not honoring the warranty if their extractor has been altered,
I can see it if it's evident that a butcher has been at it, but minor fitting
and creating clearances where they need to be is something that is sometimes necessary...and they're well aware of that. F'rinstance, the stop pad behind the hook is on the high side of tolerance, and the front of the channel is on the low side. When that happens...and it often does...
the stop pad has to be slightly reduced to get the required tension.
If the hook can't get to the rim, the amount of bend in the extractor won't
do a thing except make it harder to get in the channel. I guess that means
you're either stuck with a part that you can't use in THAT gun, (since they
don't mention anything about a refund if the extractor won't work...only
replacement if it breaks)...or you fit the extractor and void the warranty. It smacks of leaving a loophole open to get out of honoring their guarantee. Red flags go up.
It brings to mind Wilson Combat's not guaranteeing reliability unless a certain brand or brands of ammunition is fired in their guns. If the gun is right, it should run with any good quality ammo that is within spec dimensionally. If the extractor is good, it should tolerate minor fitting without compromising its structural integrity. I mean, suppose you go with a press-fit on the firing pin stop and it mars the bluing in the slot... Technically, they can use that to void the warranty, even though the break occurs at the hook.
Hope this answers your questions. Luck to ya!
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Draper, to fit a "hard fit" bushing correctly, you really need a lathe and a
mandrel. MGW makes a very good "Drop-in" bushing that is cut to the
high slide of tolerance on the slide fit, and on the low side on the barrel...
assuming middle of the road dimensions on both. On most guns that I've used them in, the fit is much closer than the factory bushings...a few even require some clearance adjustment to let the barrel tilt down when it
unlocks. This varies from gun to gun, but the dimensions are closely held
from bushing to bushing.
Your best bet is to give George Smith a call at Evolution Gun Works and give him your slide and barrel dimensions. He can cut a bushing that will be as close to a gunsmith fit as can be done without actually having the gun. You may have to do the final lapping in the slide to loosen it up a little for easier removal, but it will be very close. Minor adjustment for barrel spring and linkdown clearance may also be required, but it won't be much. Those guys are very good at holding close tolerances. You could buy the bushing and pay the fee for the machine work about as cheaply...and probably moreso, than you could pay a pistolsmith to do the work, and you'd need a VERY steady hand or a sandbag rest to see the difference in accuracy.
If you go this route, consider their Angle-Bored bushing at a slightly higher
cost, and you can pretty much do the final lap to the slide and go.
Luck to ya!
Tuner