Tuner, please expound

[Jammer Six]

'Tuner, I have a request.

Please expound on the tuning of an ejector.

I've just finished staking an ejector into my milspec, (Thanks for your help!)
and I'd like to hear how you adjust the length and angle of it.

It looks to me like it's at least six inches longer than the old one was, and while it works just fine, brass now finds the two square inches of my throat that isn't covered by shirt, and goes down the front of my shirt. Sometimes, it just smacks me in the glasses, which really, really annoys me.

I suppose you'd have to wear glasses 24/7 to really appreciate how annoying that is.

What's the Official 'Tuner Procedure for tuning new ejectors?

Thanks again for your help!

 

[1911Tuner]

When Cases Fly (In the Wrong Direction)

Howdy Jammer! Man, you've been 'round and 'round with that pistol.

Ejector tunin' sometimes turns into a "Zen" thing...and that's doubletalk
for:banghead:

Length is tuned for live round ejection with the longest ammo that
you can find...which generally means factory hardball. Once
it'll kick those out without hangin' up in the port, it's time to look at
the angle of exit.

What's probably happening is that the brass is still in the port
when the slide meets it, and it's gettin' knocked backward toward
you. Look for the brass tracks on the front edge of the port, or
even on the top of the slide to see evidence of it. The issue here is
the timing of the case's release from the extractor as much as the
direction...and that's where the zen part enters the picture.

Of course, the shorter the ejector, the later the release, and vice versa,
but there's another factor involved. Extended ejectors make contact while
the slide is still over the top round in the magazine, so the upcoming round
can't "bump" the case to begin primary ejection. It's all accomplished by
a combination of ejector contact and the extractor's grip on the rim. Then,
there's the speed of the slide to consider too...

A heavier or lighter recoil spring will change the dynamics of the ejection pattern. More or less extractor tension will too. The shape of the bottom
corner of the extractor hook will let the case twist free at a slightly different time and angle. So will the top corner of the extractor.

Go ahead and prep the ejector by filing a 45 degree angle along the top
right corner for the whole length of the ejector. Just a light bevel...one
or two light strokes with the file.

Look at the brass tracks to figure out exactly where the slide is hittin the cases. If it's hitting mainly at the top of the port, the cases need to exit
more sideways. Raise the point of impact by filing the underside of the nose at an angle. If the impact is mainly at the side, lower the point of impact by LIGHTLY breaking the top of the ejector at a shallow angle.
Shoot the gun and see what changes. If you went in the wrong direction,
file the nose straight across and start over. That's the beauty of an extended ejector, especially in a 5-inch gun. You've got a little leeway
on the length.

Radius the bottom corner of the extractor hook to let the case twist off
at a different angle. If it's already radiused, change it to a light bevel.
If that doesn't do it...radius the top corner lightly.

Check the length of the hook itself. If it's too long...more than .035 inch...
it will delay the release and let the slide catch it as it tries to escape the
port. Check to see if the nose of the extractor is making hard contact in the
extractor groove. If it is, relieve the nose slightly to let it exit easier/earlier.
This one occurs a lot with extended ejectors due to the lack of influence of
the upcoming round's bump.

Bottom line is that it's sometimes a trial and error exercise, but I'd say that
if you shorten the ejector about .025 inch or so, and play with the angle on the nose, you'll find the sweet spot pretty quickly. Try a bit more tension on the extractor to keep the case from "rolling with the punch" and getting
a solid smack from the ejector.

Luck! (and don't bang your head on the wall too much)

Tuner

 

[Dave Sample]

Good Luck!

 

[Jammer Six]

What's probably happening is that the brass is still in the port
when the slide meets it, and it's gettin' knocked backward toward
you.

Huh?

The brass is still in the port...

...when the slide meets it...

Once in a while you baffle me, 'Tuner.

Isn't the brass held to the slide by the extractor? Isn't it traveling rearward inside the slide?

When does the slide meet it, then?

As I understand this sequence, the force of the round firing forces the slide to start moving to the rear. As it goes, the ejector holds the brass in place by trapping the rim of the brass between the hook of the ejector and the left side of the slide with the spring tension of the ejector.

As the slide completes its trip to the rear, the left side of the brass hits the ejector, which breaks the tension holding it in place and forces it out and forward. This forces the "front" of the brass out of the ejection port, and the brass ejects.

Now, the only time the brass is "in" the port is as it passes through the port, and at that point, the ejection has pretty much already happened. So how...

Oh, I think I see.

You're saying the rear edge of the port hits the tail of the brass before it's clear of the port, as the slide travels forward, right?

And it catches just enough of the brass to "spin" it straight back at my face, right?

And the length of the ejector changes this because the shorter the ejector, the later in the sequence it hits the brass.

Oh, man, this is going to be a screaming pain in the ...

And when I replace the springs, I get to do it all over again. This explains why it suddenly started acting weird about brass when I replaced the springs, though.

Man, you've been 'round and 'round with that pistol.

Well, yes, but I've learned a lot.

Real Soon Now, I'm going to buy a Caspian frame and slide, and then you and I are going to have a LOT to talk about!

Thanks again!

 

[Black Snowman]

The brass is still in the port... ...when the slide meets it...

I think what Tuner is saying is that the slide is making contact with the brass before it can clear the port, which is why you are looking for the "tracks".

Most likely, with the long ejector the brass is pushed forward bumping the front of the port deflecting it rearword because it's pushed forward sooner/faster than it's being pushed up.

Am I translating that correctly?

 

[1911Tuner]

Expound

Expound? Expound....Hmmm. (Flippin' through Funk and Wagnalls)
AH! Okay. Gotcha!

Go into slow motion and watch the event. The slide is screamin' backward
in recoil, carryin' the case with it. Smack! The ejector hits the case and
twists it toward the port, mouth first. The case is half in and half out,
and the extractor releases it...but since it takes time for it to get clear
of the port...and the slide is still movin'...the edge of the port hits it
on the side. Sometimes it gets kicked at an angle to your side, and sometimes it gets kicked straight back...dependin' on which part of the
port smacks it. Look for the tracks.

Then, there's always the possibility..and I suspect that this is what's
goin' on with your pistol...that the case is tryin' to exit at 3 O'Clock, or
even lower. It strikes the bottom of the port and gets bounced straight up
into the path of the TOP of the port. Duck! Look for the tracks. There may be two sets. If you also notice a small "V" shaped ding on your case mouths...it's bouncing off the bottom of the port. Note that you may not
se the dings if the back of the case is contacting the bottom of the port.
Dings on the side of the case can be done on the first bounce at the bottom...or the second bounce at the top.

You may be able to solve it by shortening the ejector so it'll hit the case when the slide is farther back and moving a little slower due to spring loading.

You MAY be able to solve it by going to a lighter recoil spring to let the case smack the ejector harder and get it clear of the port...but don't count on it.

You MAY be able to solve it by goin' to a heavier recoil spring so that the slide is movin' slower, giving the brass a little more time to get clear...but
don't count on this one either.

You MAY be able to solve it by increasing extractor tension or altering the
bottom corner of the hook.

You MAY be able to solve it by shortening the extractor hook a little...no shorter than .032 inch please.

You'll PROBABLY be able to solve it by changing the release point, and having the case exit the port closer to 2 O'Clock. As a rule, the higher on
the case the ejector makes contact, the more straight up the ejection,
and the lower the contact point, the more straight out.

You may have to do all the above procedures. "Zen" See why gunsmiths
are all a little nutty? We've been driven to it.

Luck!

Tuner