reloading .308 for a semi and a bolt?

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SCMtns

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Hi guys,

I used the search function but wasn't able to find a satisfactory answer.

I've got a Springfield M1A and a Savage 10fp (both in .308) that I'd like to start reloading for. I'm not new to reloading-- just for this caliber. I know you're supposed to use a "small base" setup to reload for an autoloader, while it's not required for a bolt action.

My question is: can I buy one set of small base dies to reload for both rifles? Or should I buy both types of sizing dies? Does anybody else here reload .308 for both semis and bolts? Got any advice?

I guess I'm mainly concerned whether brass that's been fireformed for one chamber will suck in the other...

As always, THR, thanks a lot!
 
You don't have to use a small base for an auto. Generally the small base is required if the brass came from an open bolt gun, like a machinegun. So get a single general purpose sizer but only use it on the bolt gun's brass every 3rd time or so, when it's needed. The rest of the time, just size the neck and your brass will last much longer.

For the auto, FL everytime. I'd keep separate brass piles for the auto and the bolt gun. It won't necessarily "suck" if it does dual duty but it sure won't last as long.
/Bryan
 
A basic reloading rule is don't use brass fired in a different firearm. Each should have there own special brass. Buy standard dies for both,see how that works. Mixing headstamps is not a good idea IMO, unless you run your sized brass thru a case gage for the auto. More info here http://www.6mmbr.com/308Win.html
 
It won't hurt a thing to size with a standard full length sizer for both guns. Small base dies are rarely needed.

You should size the brass for the auto to fit a case gauge ensuring they will chamber easily but at the same time will not have excessive headspace.

For your bolt gun you may wish to partial full length size to minimize working the brass to get a better fit for that particular chamber and get better case life.

If you don't want to go through that trouble, full length size to fit a case gauge for both guns. No worries.

As far as keeping brass separate for each gun, it isn't absolutely necessary. When shooting tight necked match guns where folks are keeping brass fit to almost a perfect fit, this is advisable (almost a necessity), but for general shooting with standard chambers it isn't really a huge deal, but since it is two separate types of actions (one being a semi auto), it's probably a good idea in this case.
 
Thanks, gentlemen! That settles it. I'd already considered keeping separate brass piles, but had hoped somebody would tell me I could avoid the hassle. Guess I'll just deal with it.

I'd forgotten about that 6mmbr site. Thanks for the reminder, 243.

Midwayusa gets a little of almost every paycheck-- looks like this time it's for standard .308 dies, among other things...
 
I shoot the same .308 brass in two FALs, a M1A, a PTR91, and a CETME. Also use the same dies to reload them. I notice difference in the resistance in sizing them depending on which gun they were fired. Use Imperial wax and lube well.
 
Yes, forget about the small base dies.
You might, however want to use IMR4895/H4895 or something in this speed range of powder, if loading ammo to be used in both rifles. In the bolt gun you can get away with any speed of powder, but the M1A requires a powder within a speed range for proper operation, and the 4895 series is just about perfect for it. Good shootin'!
 
Yes, forget about the small base dies.
You might, however want to use IMR4895/H4895 or something in this speed range of powder, if loading ammo to be used in both rifles. In the bolt gun you can get away with any speed of powder, but the M1A requires a powder within a speed range for proper operation, and the 4895 series is just about perfect for it. Good shootin'!
I agree with this. Especially the 4895 powders which will keep you M1A happiest. Anything that makes your M1A happy will usually work fine in the bolt gun.
 
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