Also, I realized I have some berrys 124 grain Flat Point (not thick plate) and 124 grain Target Hollow Point projectiles. Can they be used in 357 sig loads at regular velocities? Picture attached, with a v-crown on the right.
I was looking at that one, but it doesn’t show on Berrys website, and when I contacted them they said it was out of production and they didn’t know if they were going to make more.The plated bullet I loaded most was the Berry's 124gr HBFPTP.
Yep, it is. I got some of the 124’s for my 9mm. I see the 125’s have a significantly different profilethe V-Crown you show looks more like the 124gr bullet
Thanks! That looks sweet!Here you go!
Also, it doesn’t look like RMR is even producing these now147gr TCFPMW, 124gr TCFPMW
They may produce them in runs. @longdayjake would be the one to ask.Also, it doesn’t look like RMR is even producing these now
Any other ideas?
Also, it doesn’t look like RMR is even producing these now
Any other ideas?
Speaking of loading lead bullets in 357 SIG. I have a Lee's 358-125 mold that I cast and sized the bullets down to .356". Hi-tek coated. Plans are to try them out in 9mm.
I sized and slightly bell mouthed 25 cases. Seated and roll crimped to OAL of 1.145". Dummy rounds.
Cycled them all through 2 guns. A compact and full size frames. All but 2 lost .002" on OAL. The 2 jammed into the feed ramp of the full size. They lost .013".
The flat nose looks to be too wide for reliable feeding. They may not work for 9mm either.
I have some MBCs 124 gr. Truncated nose that I may try next, if they don't see too long.
I have 2 sets of 357 SIG dies. Lee's and RCBS. The RCBS bullet seat can do a slight roll crimp. Not so much with Lee's.
I wouldn’t roll crimp any bullet without cannelure. I prefer using a Lee Factory Crimp Die for .357 SigI’m assuming a slight roll crimp is a valid option with 357 SIG since it headspaces (or can headspace) on the shoulder?
That's what I was hoping, and the plunk test confirmed.I’m assuming a slight roll crimp is a valid option with 357 SIG since it headspaces (or can headspace) on the shoulder?
Or a cast bullet that was meant to roll crimp.I wouldn’t roll crimp any bullet without cannelure. I prefer using a Lee Factory Crimp Die for .357 Sig
Or a cast bullet that was meant to roll crimp.
You're point was valid. I doubt if there are many .355-.356" bullets out there that have a cannelure. And then it would probably be useless in 357SIG seating OAL.Touche
Got everything set up, with some 124 grain berrys FP bullets as dummy rounds to get me close for when the actual projectiles get here. I went to deprime/size the brass, and my decapping pin keeps pulling out of the shaft and getting stuck in the case! I’ve got a Redding die set. Any suggestions?
Got everything set up, with some 124 grain berrys FP bullets as dummy rounds to get me close for when the actual projectiles get here. I went to deprime/size the brass, and my decapping pin keeps pulling out of the shaft and getting stuck in the case! I’ve got a Redding die set. Any suggestions?
I'm fortunate on recapping pins. I use a Lee 40 S&W sizing die to decap and size the main body before running through the 357 SIG sizer. The 40s recapping pin is smaller diameter that most pins.Got everything set up, with some 124 grain berrys FP bullets as dummy rounds to get me close for when the actual projectiles get here. I went to deprime/size the brass, and my decapping pin keeps pulling out of the shaft and getting stuck in the case! I’ve got a Redding die set. Any suggestions?
My go-to bullet is a 130 grain SWC from NOE because it has a nice long straight bearing surface. I size to .358 and I’ve never owned a 9mm or 357 Sig that wouldn’t chamber them. My .356 sizing die might as well be a paperweight.I'm giving serious thought to the .357 sig.
I'm curious whether anyone has tried a .357 dia lead SWC?
I don't want to hijack this thread - But it seems relevant to the OP anyhow
^This is literally EXACTLY what I ended up doing hahaI'm fortunate on recapping pins. I use a Lee 40 S&W sizing die to decap and size the main body before running through the 357 SIG sizer.
^This is literally EXACTLY what I ended up doing haha
Grabbed my Lee 40 die, checked the cartridge OD specs in the load manual to make sure they were the same, and went for it. Worked perfect!
I generally lube all my pistol cases with lanolin (9, 40, 357 mag and SIG, 38 spl, etc...) before sizing while they are still dirty, so having the carbide sizer ring in the 40 die is an added perk to reduce wear on my steel 357 SIG sizer die as well. Then they go in the wet tumbler and come out clean, shiny, sized, and ready to load! The more ya know...
Here’s the first batch done and drying:
Thanks!!Great looking brass!
This is actually what I had planned to do initially, except I realized that the decapping pin on my Mighty Armory universal decapper (the .074”) was too big for the flash holes....needless to say I’ve got some of the small pins en route now hahaDeprime using the Lee universal depriming die.
How important is it to debulge? So far, all cases that I’ve sampled after sizing have passed the plunk test just fine, and seated flush.Debulge cases using 40 Lee FCD.
If I’m reading correctly, I’m assuming just to remove lube because they have already been cleaned before during the first wet tumble step, correct?Wash the cases without any stainless steel pins, then dry.
Thanks! Definitely appreciate all the help and advice! Got some gold dot projectiles (designed for 357 sig) and some X-Treme 124 gr FP on the way as well.Looking forward to see you first test results.