Reloading .380ACP - First Time Question

Great explanation. I think I’ve got it. My earlier reply can now be ignored.
I will do the light “crimp” with the seating die.
I am only reloading 380 and it is straight walled.
Have now built 8 dummy rounds (no primer or powder) at OAL of 0.975. Max is 0.984. And my factory loads (Am. Eagle and Blazer 95gr FMJ) both measure exactly or slightly less than the dummies. My dummies all pass the case gauge and plunk test in my Bersa Thunder barrel. They likewise fit the magazine and cycle properly with manual slide racking.
Keep doing what you did to make those - but with primer and powder - and you will be fine. All the friendly and well-meaning advice can sometimes derail a great plan.
 
Have finally gotten all components and equipment setup for this.
Have the four die set from Lee. They are breech lock and I believe adjusted to proper positions.

I have checked numerous manuals and on line info for load data. Have settled on a starting load with the RMR 95gr FMJ bullet over 2.9gr of HP38. Light taper crimp via the Factory Crimp Die.

Have now built 8 dummy rounds (no primer or powder) at OAL of 0.975. Max is 0.984. And my factory loads (Am. Eagle and Blazer 95gr FMJ) both measure exactly or slightly less than the dummies. My dummies all pass the case gauge and plunk test in my Bersa Thunder barrel. They likewise fit the magazine and cycle properly with manual slide racking.

So, am I ready to proceed with reloading live rounds and testing at my range? Or if not, what more to do?
if you have time… do a bracket loads of .1 grain, 5-6 round per + .1 grain over your starting load. Shoot on a bench and recored the best bracket load!

that’s what I would ideally do, but if it goes bang!! I get lazy and be like GOOD ENOUGH
 
So, correct me here, but if I understand we want to simply remove the flair, and no more?

That depends on the gun. I have two Kimber 1911's, both 3" guns. Basically identical, but what plunks in one won't plunk in the other. So I make ammo for the tighter chamber, and it works in both. You don't have that problem if your only loading for one gun, but you may have that problem in time. Reloading can be addicting.

If your gun will function after just removing the flair, then you're good to go. If not, you may have to crimp tighter like I do.

Keep doing what you did to make those - but with primer and powder - and you will be fine. All the friendly and well-meaning advice can sometimes derail a great plan.

This ^^^ is good advice. Your dummy rounds plunk and feed from the magazine. So you should be good to go as far as your die setup. It sounds like you have it right.

Now, make a few at the start charge, and go up in 0.1 or 0.2 gr increments until max. I don't load .380, but you probably have a small "useable" range, and will most likely want to use 0.1gr increments. This will be your "ladder test".

When I do a ladder test, I usually make five rounds for each charge weight. Next, I go to the range, and try them out, and decide what I and my gun like. I'll take some factory ammo to compare to my reloads, so I have a reasonable comparison.

Once you think you have your load, make another 50 and go to the range again. If it feeds and functions fine, and you're happy with the accuracy, then you have your load. At this point, load them up to your hearts content.

Don't load a bunch before doing your ladder test. You don't want to have to pull 500 (or even 100) rounds apart because they are too hot or they've turned your semi-auto into a single shot.

chris
 
Yes. You could test neck tension by measuring bullet setback before/after feeding your dummy rounds from the magazine and releasing the slide.


Yes. 😁

Hodgdon load data - https://www.hodgdonreloading.com/reloading-data-center
  • 380Auto 95 gr Speer FMJ W231/HP-38 COL .970" Start 2.9 gr (802 fps) - Max 3.2 gr (884 fps)
  • 380Auto 95 gr ACME Coated RN W231/HP-38 COL .970" Start 3.0 gr (812 fps) - Max 3.8 gr (1,043 fps)
Speer load data - https://reloadingdata.speer.com/downloads/speer/reloading-pdfs/handgun/380_Automatic_95.pdf
  • 380Auto 95 gr Speer TMJ RN W231 COL .970" Start 3.6 gr (945 fps) - Max 4.0 gr (1027 fps)
FWIW, here's my .380Auto load development with 100 gr RNFP and W231/HP-38 (Note reduced charges from deeper seated bullet base from shorter OAL and range was 7 yards but have you tried shooting that small Taurus 738 TCP?) - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/380auto-x-treme-100-gr-rnfp-range-test.748320/

index.php
I had to run about 3.2gr HP38, 95 gr berrys at .980 to get the G42 to cycle consistently and cleanly.
 
Thanks,
If I understand correctly, my seating die can also be set to do a light or heavy taper crimp.
If I put the FCD in the drawer, would that work the same as your suggested “old deflaring - taper crimp die?
Yep, evey seating die I know of is adjustable. I have found no need for post crimping sizing on any handgun cartridge have ever loaded. If there ever was a chambering problem, I found out why and fixed it. I had an FCD I bought out of curioity and after using it once, I punched out the carbide ring. No more bullet swaging, but so-so to poor crimp. ("put it in a drawer" is a eupheism for "throw it away"). Since I have not "crimped" a semi-auto handload in many years (30?) I found a plain taper crimp die works well for deflaring.
 
UPDATE - UPDATE - UPDATE

Went to my range this morning with some factory ammo and the test rounds reloaded with your assists.
Took 8 rounds (1 mag) each of .380ACP - 90gr RMR FMJ RN over loads of 2.9, 3.0, 3.1 and 3.2 all at .0980 (+/- .0025)

The Bersa Thunder ate each and every one without a burp. I also took and shot about 30 rds that were at 2.9 but less accurate and varied COAL. She ate those also. NO ISSUES! Everything cycled perfectly. I was even able to find and
bring home about 80% of my brass.

Shot everything at 8 yards. No 1/2” groups (I need to cut back on coffee prIor to range visits). But, tightest groups (2”) were with the 3.0 and 3.1 loads. 3.2 was pretty close. So, I will not load more at 2.9. Will build a batch of the others, lay off the coffee and go back for another test.

Also, everything shot handheld, no bench rest which would have helped the coffee jitters. Our range does not have seat benches, so to shoot with bench rest one needs to bring a folding chair. I forgot mine.

Now, off to the bench to clean the Bersa!

Thanks again to all…….
 
UPDATE - UPDATE - UPDATE

Went to my range this morning with some factory ammo and the test rounds reloaded with your assists.
Took 8 rounds (1 mag) each of .380ACP - 90gr RMR FMJ RN over loads of 2.9, 3.0, 3.1 and 3.2 all at .0980 (+/- .0025)

The Bersa Thunder ate each and every one without a burp. I also took and shot about 30 rds that were at 2.9 but less accurate and varied COAL. She ate those also. NO ISSUES! Everything cycled perfectly. I was even able to find and
bring home about 80% of my brass.

Shot everything at 8 yards. No 1/2” groups (I need to cut back on coffee prIor to range visits). But, tightest groups (2”) were with the 3.0 and 3.1 loads. 3.2 was pretty close. So, I will not load more at 2.9. Will build a batch of the others, lay off the coffee and go back for another test.

Also, everything shot handheld, no bench rest which would have helped the coffee jitters. Our range does not have seat benches, so to shoot with bench rest one needs to bring a folding chair. I forgot mine.

Now, off to the bench to clean the Bersa!

Thanks again to all…….
Excellent! Congrats!
 
This is the truly important part, finding your brass! ;)

Glad you got it, and if 3.0 or 3.1 works for you, then that's your load. I have some loads that are at or near max, but most of my loads are at midrange or slightly below.

chris
The HP38, unfortunately, has a pretty narrow load range: 2.9 - 3.2. But, it measures well so I’ll use it til I need more.
 
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