Reloading .45 GAP?

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massnee

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I am planing on reloading .45 G.A.P. and need some info. First, what is your best per round cost for reloading .45gap (including purchasing brass)? My reloading application will be for shooting 0 to 20 feet (I will want to mimic my carry ammo…do not want to use light loads).

I also need a reloading recipe, which includes online venders (where to buy brass, where and what primers, powder, and bullets).
 
YOU ASK FOR AN AWFUL LOT WITHOUT SO MUCH AS A HOWDY DO.

Get the components catalogs and get to work.
Furtheremore, if how cheap you can make such things is at the top of your agenda you should probably take up another hobby. Cheap and good are mutually exclusive in handloading your own ammunition.
 
Thanks for the info...anyone who can share additional info?

Concerning cost I put about 5,000 rounds a year through my carry gun. My questions are posted because I may be switching my carry gun from a G27 to a G39.

What is a howdy do?:)
 
Wil terry, attitudes like the one you displayed are what prevent the transferral of priceless information down the generations.
Really, be nice, be helpful. It's a lot more satisfying to all.

And BTW, this is a forum after all, this is where people ask strangers questions without the usual pleasantries
 
I reload the 45GAP but I couldn’t tell you what they cost without looking all the components up. The price will be determined by which components you choose and how cheap you can purchase them.

Are you new to reloading?
 
I am new to reloading. I have a lee pro 1000 press. I have begun reloading for the purpose of cutting costs. I have been able to reduce my .223 costs from .25 for factory ammo to .095 for reloads.

My current carry gun is a glock 27. The best factory ammo I have found for .40s/w is about .18. However, due to the high pressure of the .40 and the kaboom factor of the glock I hesitate to reload the cartridge.

I do have the opportunity to replace my g27 with a glock 39 (.45gap). However, the factory ammo for the gap is too expensive for my budget. Hence, my interest in reloading gap.

I appreciate any info on what others are getting for per round cost. The best I have been able to do so far is around .13 for reloading gap.
 
You made me curious so I did a little figuring and for jacketed bullets looks to me like 13 cents (per round) and up depending on the bullet, assuming you reload the same brass 10 times.

Do you have a chronograph?

I noticed some of the reloading data when fired in my G37 was way under the listed velocities for the Max loads. I like the Speer Gold Dots and have some factory cartridges that I plan on chronographing to see the bullet speeds when shot through my Glock. Then I’ll try to match this velocity with my reloads.
 
massnee: take a look at the Lyman Pistol & Revolver III load manual. I believe you'll find good GAP data. Consequently, one of the best performing powders they found for the GAP, is Ramshot True Blue. I don't load the GAP, but if I did, I would take an approach similar to how I load .40 S&W and stay away from the faster burning powders because of the higher pressure peak associated with a case of limited capacity and heavy bullets. This is also a contributor to the Ka-Boom incidents. You mentioned that you want to duplicate factory defense ammo and the powders in the medium to service range will get you the best results. Ramshot also sells Silhouette which was formerely sold as Winchester WAP. An e-mail to Ramshot will probably get you data for either powder. AA#5, Winchester WSF and Hodgdon HS-6 are probably worth a look also as well as V-V N340 and 3N37. The pressure max , MAP (Maximum Average Pressure) for the GAP is 23,000 PSI, the same as the .45 ACP +P, but the shorter case changes the burn rate geometry dynamic. When building defense or defense simulation loads, I like powders that will keep muzzle flash to a minimum and typically stay with ball powders. Testing at night, if possible, will be more conclusive. The benefit of Silhouette, is that it is treated to minimize flash. There are some low flashers among the others I mentioned, but as I said, I haven't loaded the GAP and flash can vary with a powder and the cartridge it's loaded in. A good manual is always the best place to start and the P & R III is one of the most up to date sources for handgun loads and Lyman gives pressure data, a very valuable thing to get a handle on as soon as possible.;)
 
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