Reloading bottlenecks, what's a good beginner's cartridge?

[DMW1116]

223 and 308 won’t require trimming brass every time for the same case, unless you want all the cases to be as close as possible. I haven’t reloaded the same cases enough times to check but I’d say you wouldn’t have to trim rifle cases every time. If that is the limit, there are plenty of straight walled rifle cartridges that won’t need trimming but one time for a while.

A single shot 223 would be a great learning tool for reloading. Those longer bullets aren’t something I’ve tried but a single shot rifle or pistol should work well for them. Hunters Supply even makes coated and cast bullets for 22 caliber rifles if you want to try those. They’re not any cheaper than 55 grain FMJ but it is a different process.

 

[GeoDudeFlorida]

Downloaded velocities isn't the goal or interest here.

However, I do have an interest in reloading .223 solely for the heavy 75 to 80 grain projectile loadings, something that costs quite a bit more than standard 55gr or 62gr green tips.

I have the H&R single in both .223 and .308, so maybe I should just use that as my starting platform, but my goal eventually is a bolt action in something easy to reload that doesn't require trimming brass each time.

Get an Enfield. .303Brit headspaces off the rim.

 

[cfullgraf]

I'd go with common cartridges like 223 Rem, 308 Win, or 30-06 to start with. Easy to learn, cases are easily available.

But, I can't say I have any real difficulty reloading any bottle neck cartridge including 22 Hornet and 32-20. But, you have to be careful, ham fisted press operating techniques will get you into trouble.

Over lubing the case will cause hydraulic dents in the neck area as the lubricant builds up. It takes some knowledge and feel to know when to lube cases and when to run dry cases through the sizing die. Running a couple dry cases once in a while through the sizing die helps keep the excess lubricant in the die to a minimum.

I have the most problems forming cases. I form 6.5x54 Kurz Mauser and the appropriate parent case is important to minimize problems. I have the capability to form 221 Remington Fireball, and again, the appropriate choice of parent case is important.

I also form 38/45 Clerke cases for my 38/45 Clerke 1911. If you get through the original forming process, things go well the rest of the process. I probably have the highest failure rate with these, 3 to 5 percent on the first step and case life can be short.

 

[ballman6711]

Over lubing the case will cause hydraulic dents in the neck area as the lubricant builds up. It takes some knowledge and feel to know when to lube cases and when to run dry cases through the sizing die. Running a couple dry cases once in a while through the sizing die helps keep the excess lubricant in the die to a minimum.

This is something often overlooked when advising new Bottleneck Reloaders. Lubing cases really is a "feel" kind of thing.

I usually lube the first three to five cases, maybe a few more, and then start lubing every third or fourth case. You can feel when the dry cases are beginning to require more sizing effort, and that's when you need to lube another case. I almost never have to clean lube from the die, and if you don't over lube you won't get dents.

I would also recommend getting a stuck case remover, or at least a tap and bolt that can be used if you stick a case.

chris

 

[AJC1]

Downloaded velocities isn't the goal or interest here.

However, I do have an interest in reloading .223 solely for the heavy 75 to 80 grain projectile loadings, something that costs quite a bit more than standard 55gr or 62gr green tips.

I have the H&R single in both .223 and .308, so maybe I should just use that as my starting platform, but my goal eventually is a bolt action in something easy to reload that doesn't require trimming brass each time.

Trimming is a factor of brass movement. The closer your die matches the chamber the better... over sizing the case will cause the trimming you don't want, it shortens case life and is very problematic in 30-30. There are several tools to check for this but the Sinclair or Hornaday comparators are the cheapest and most versatile. The rcbs precision mic is calibrated to Sammi spec you may find it easier to use.

 

[GHinNH]

One reason I bought the die set for 7.62x25 Tok, but I've not gotten around to loading any yet.

So, is .30-30 a good candidate for beginners reloading bottlenecks? Should I consider trying 7.62x25 out first? Are pistol bottleneck cartridges a better place to start or are rifles?

(1) You and me both, everything I need to reload Tok except to do it.

The rub with Tok is barrel ID, if you've a .308 barrel you're in better shape with bullet selection, if it's .312 (CIP) yeah.. not so much.
Why we can't import the correct bullet is beyond my attention span threshold.

(2) Bottleneck reloading, I think you're on the right track with a smallish-mid-size rifle. As cartridges grow in size so do the cost of consumables. Tok is tiny and fiddly in comparison, and depending on powder selection easier to make a potentially dangerous mistake.

If 5.56 is on your list, I'd suggest to go with that at first. Components are plentiful enough there is competition to keep prices (kind of) in check, huge amount of info, fairly forgiving, easy to reload, and get good results with quickly.

Anything mid size .30 cal would be great also because of the large variety of projectiles and suitable powder available.

 

[DMW1116]

Just a word for learning purposes. Compared to a 223, any 30 caliber round eats powder a lot quicker, except maybe 300 BO. For learning purposes, a less expensive option might be desirable. 223 fits well in that roll.

 

[small town life]

I only have 1 pistol that uses bottleneck cases, 357sig. Great cartridge, but a PITA on most days. 300bo is another PITA! Are you reloading for something you already have or looking for something new? The lowest cost way to start reloading is a single stage press. As far as easy cartridge, they are all easy, but some can be finicky for development. 223/5.56 could be done for about 25 cents per (depending on sales). Small primers are more readily available. Before deciding check on components availability including dies! I added 7saum and 6.5prc only due to not getting 7wsm and 6.5gap or 6.5rem mag. Bullets are easier to get even in 30-30. Make sure you get ALL the necessary supporting tools (scale, gauges, mic, etc). If you live (or close to an) area where online buying isn't necessary, then it's a win!

 

[Charlie98]

If 5.56 is on your list, I'd suggest to go with that at first.

TBH, I'm not a fan of 5.56mm/.223 as a 'first bottleneck' cartridge, that's why I suggested .308 for the OP. It would be like suggesting starting out with the .380 instead of the .45ACP as a first pistol cartridge to handload for. I just feel like it would be a better experience going forward, even over the .30-30. Further, the OP has an ideal platform to work with... the single-shot H&R HandiRifle. Sometimes simplicity is it's own reward.

 

[FROGO207]

So 223 and 308 are the easiest to get brass for and they both have the largest selection of available bullets in multiple brands. You say downloading is not an intrest. I said that 30+ years ago as well.
Keep good records of both failures and successes. This will help you in future years. Don't be afraid to try different combos either. This has proven to be a big help when components dry up (and they will on a regular cycle) and I have already found out what my second or third choices are and can pluck things off the shelf and shoot when others spend many hours looking for their only working combo with no luck.
Don't forget the effects of rifling and accuracy either. I have better luck in 223 with 1:8 twist and the heavier bullets for example.

 

[Charlie98]

I said that 30+ years ago as well.

I think about things I said to myself 30 years ago... both the New Me and the Old Me have a good laugh about it.

 

[doubleh]

I am in the gang recommending to start with 223. It is relatively inexpensive and not much effort required compared to 30-06 to resize. The only annoying thing I have found is that most universal powder funnels require to you to be very careful to hold them lined up with the case mouth top to prevent spills when pouring powder into the case. If you are a just stick the case under the measure to charge it that goes away. Since I am after that best accuracy I can get it's a weigh every charge thing for me. If you would like higher speed the 22-250 is equally as easy to reload. You will find little range brass and it requires more powder so will increase expense. I have loaded a few 30-30 rounds and had no difficulty but have never found any love for that cartridge at all.