Reloading for my M1A Socom II...I have questions???

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sappnasty

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Okay, I am brand new to reloading and my RCBS Rock Chucker Kit came in today. I have purchased everything I need to start with the exception of brass, primners, powder, etc. Because I am just starting out, I want to teach myself to reload safely...that way, the good habits I instill now will carry with me throughout my future of reloading.

I have done nothing but read,read,read and pick through these forums like the 5 dollar movie bin at Wal-Mart for information. SO, I want to ask the veteran loaders...hopefully some of you that reload for M1As. I have been told (who knows how reliable) that when reloading for M1As, you have to becareful because it is a little different? First off, is this true?

Being that I have been buying guns since I was legally able to (and owned quite a few before 18) and FINALLY was able to purchase my dream rifle, I want to try and be as precise as one can be and only use the best components. I plan to use this rifle (and reloads) to hunt with. I am not a competitive shooter (yet) and don't care to push limits. I simply want a good safe load that will knock em down when I pull the trigger. With all of the info out of the way, I would like to ask the veterans on here about which is the best brass, primers, powder, bullets, etc. for my specific rifle.

Now when I bought my rifle, Springfield Armory sent me a certificate for the exact headspace measurement ( I will post it when I get home)...so I want it to be EXACT. I am very thorough and dont mind spending time un-distracted at the bench. One of the main reasons I am posting this is because I want good performance as well as safety...as I don't want to blow up my dream rifle.

Another is because I know from shooting factory ammo in my socom, that my firing pin has a very light primer strike on unfired primers....And I've also heard that certains primers out there are very sensitive and I definately don't want a slam fire..which I've been told m1 type rifle are known for. :confused: Sorry to be such a rook, I just wanna do it right. SO I am a roast, baste me...lol
 
Well for starters, if your kit came with a reloading manual then you should read and fully understand the front section before proceeding to the data section. It will pretty well spell out the mechanics for you.

If it didn't come with manual, you should go buy one, and preferably several. I keep a current copy of all of popular manuals on hand. Emphasis on current, as they do get updated periodically.

Mil pattern semi auto's can have a problem with slam fire. It's not unique to your M1A. Garands do it, and AR's can do it as well. This was recognized by the military long ago, and they use primers with thicker cups to cure it. For your rifle, the CCI #34 primer is the correct one. It has the same exterior dimensions as a regular large rifle primer, with a thicker cup. It happens because these rifles tend to have a fairly heavy firing pin with nothing to restrain it as the bolt slaps back and forth.

Many will tell you that they've never had a problem using regular primers...but it only takes once. Of all the kabooms I've read about, I can't recall one that used the #34 primer that was correctly seated.

As far as recipes, see the manuals.
 
Had a slam fire in my son's M1-A while I was shooting it. Didn't seem to hurt anything but it will certainly wake you up real fast. I wouldn't use Federal primers any more because of it.
 
I just finished up with assembling and installing all of my components on my bench. I built the bench myself out of wood from Home Depot...Stained it, applied tunge oil and painted it. Got my Rock Chucker kit in today. What do you think for a rookie guys?
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Looks good so far, but as already mentioned, be careful with the loading for the military rifles.

I'm cautious with my M1A Scout Squad's loads, and have heard other concerns from local competitive shooters regarding the burn rates of powders in the M14/M1A action as well.
Just read up before diving in. Again, already stated, but better safe than unpleasantly educated by mishap.
 
I reload for my M1A and I have done some Barnes Triple Shocks, when reloading an all copper bullet you need to increase the jump a bit, thats the distance before the bullet actually hits the lands, I won't quote the exact distance but Barnes will give the specs. I have a preference for H4895 powder, for me it based upon where I live in Alaska and that powder seems more consistent in cold weather.

At http://www.m14tfl.com/upload/index.php The Firing Line a forum for mostly the M14/M1A you will find a lot of real viable advice and no BS.

I strongly suggest a good digital scale, not that you cannot reload with a beam scale but when you get to those pesky smaller pistol cartridges like the .380 it makes it easier to get consistent weights.
 
I would also recommend using a small base sizing die pn#15503. I ordered mine direct from rcbs for about $43.00. I have'nt had a mishap since. I believe, IMR 4895 is recommended as the best burn rate for M1A.
 
Well I set up my die tonight and I already made a huge boo boo. I set everything up exactly like the directions stated. Took a nice clean and lubed .308 case and placed it into the sheel holder. Pulled the handle, felt resistance....but because it was my first time I didn't realize what kind of pressure your supposed to feel. Then I heard a loud SNAP! Decapper pin broke, and the spindle and lock nut were bent. Now because I did everything just as the instructions advised, I began to look and figure out why it did what it did. Looked inside the brass and (drumroll please)....berdan primed! Which I had no idea what it was until I called my father in-law....and he laughed loudly and said "well you learned a lesson today huh?" I feel like a total ass.
 
If your using rcbs dies. You may want to send them an email from there web site explaining what happened and there's a good chance they'll replace your decapper and spindle for free... They have replaced dies, decapper pins and repaired my case trimmer motor for free. RCBS has in my opinion the best customer service...
 
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