trkyshootr
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I have been reading about cases bulging after being shot in Glocks. Is Glock-fired .40 okay to reload? Any problems or issues that need be addressed? Thanks.
Reloading Glock brass okay?
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ReloaderFred
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I don't generally reload brass fired in Glock handguns. Glock has an overly large chamber to enhance feeding and the case is not fully supported where the chamber is inletted for the ramp. This causes a bulge at the 6 o'clock position of the brass as it sits in the chamber, which weakens the brass in this area.
In particular, the .40 S&W is a fairly high pressure round. It's not as high pressure as the 10mm or 357 SIG, but still up there where you want as much safety margin as possible in your brass.
There is plenty of .40 brass available, so there is no need to reload brass that may have been stretched too far.
Hope this helps.
Fred
In particular, the .40 S&W is a fairly high pressure round. It's not as high pressure as the 10mm or 357 SIG, but still up there where you want as much safety margin as possible in your brass.
There is plenty of .40 brass available, so there is no need to reload brass that may have been stretched too far.
Hope this helps.
Fred
Rabid Rabbit
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I usually get 6-7 loadings out of brass fired by my G22 with no problems. I'd get more loadings out of them if I could recover more of my brass. According to my reloading books my pressures are between 26,000 to 33,000 PSI and never had a split case or any other signs of failure.
Blackcloud6
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I've been realoading Brass from Model 30 for years now. No problems.
I reload it several times and then throw it out. Just for giggles I have loaded Winchester, Remington, Federal and CBC cases 12 times each at top end power levels with no failures or problems.
If the load makes a blister on the case then by all means throw it out, if it is just out of round by a couple thousandths near the base as 99% of autoloader brass is then reload it.
If the load makes a blister on the case then by all means throw it out, if it is just out of round by a couple thousandths near the base as 99% of autoloader brass is then reload it.
yammerschooner
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I reload cartridges out of my my g23 with no problems. However, if you have reservations and don't feel it is safe, you can always send your old brass to one of us. I am sure there are an abundance of people on this board who would pay shipping to take it off of your hands!
trkyshootr
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Actually, if you see some of the brass that I've reloaded over the years, you'd be surprised that I posted the question. However, I've never loaded for .40 (although I'm sure a lot of the 9mm stuff I've reloaded has been shot through Glocks), and I've seen several posts regarding Glocks blowing up and how the brass bulges. I was curious, and appreciate everyone's replies. Thanks.
ReloaderFred
Member
There is no reason to load any brass that you may have doubts about, whether real or imagined. I've seen a lot of factory new .40 brass come out of Glocks with a rather pronounced swell at the base. I get most of the brass from our Rod & Gun Club, and almost all the police fired brass. They only shoot factory ammunition through their guns, and I see swelling in some of it.
The last time I went to the metals recycler, I took over 5,000 rounds of once fired .40 S&W brass. I tried to sell it and then tried to give it away, but no one wanted it, so it went for recycling at $.42 a pound.
Fred
The last time I went to the metals recycler, I took over 5,000 rounds of once fired .40 S&W brass. I tried to sell it and then tried to give it away, but no one wanted it, so it went for recycling at $.42 a pound.
Fred
armoredman
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Life is too short to load bad brass. I cull a LOT of brass some people might consider just fine. I just don't want to take any chances, if I can help it.
redneck2
Member
I reload Starline cases out of my G20 10mm. Some are cranked up pretty good, but I use Blue Dot which is a "slow" powder (in the pistol world). I guess mine has a stock barrel (bought it very slightly used) and I've never been able to find the bulge.
This is an absolute wild guess, but I suspect the cases that bulge the most have max loads of faster (and therefore cheaper) powder.
This is an absolute wild guess, but I suspect the cases that bulge the most have max loads of faster (and therefore cheaper) powder.
Automac
Member
I have wondered about this. I got some once-fired brass, and sure enough some of it has some pretty good bulges on one side, in the lower half.
Well guess what, it still sizes perfectly. I am currently planning a test to mark the side where it was to see if the same area expands after other uses. Maybe I will let you know, or you could try that test. I dont use a Glock.
Strangely, a bigger concern for me is the lack of neck tension after they are sized & flared. Some of them wont even hold the weight of my press handle, so they are gone.
Well guess what, it still sizes perfectly. I am currently planning a test to mark the side where it was to see if the same area expands after other uses. Maybe I will let you know, or you could try that test. I dont use a Glock.
Strangely, a bigger concern for me is the lack of neck tension after they are sized & flared. Some of them wont even hold the weight of my press handle, so they are gone.
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Jayman
Member
Just examine all your brass before you reload it. Glock brass is fine. As others have mentioned, if you have severe reservations about it, please just sent it to one of us.... 
redneck2
Member
Little explaination....
I think people tend to paint things with a broad brush
my Glock, or rather one of my friends Glocks, or rather one of my friends heard of a guy that had a "_______" problem with a Glock
now, I'm not gonna say it doesn't happen, but I crank 180's downrange at 1,300+. My brass doesn't bulge out of my G20.
Maybe some .40's do. My 10mm doesn't, and it'll kick the crap out of a .40. Take it for what it's worth. This is my gun with my load.
I know there are guys here that have a LOT more experience than me. I also know there are some armchair coyboys that spout garbage and have no idea.
I'm not particularly a Glock fan, but I think there's more unfounded rumors than truth. YMMV.
I think people tend to paint things with a broad brush
my Glock, or rather one of my friends Glocks, or rather one of my friends heard of a guy that had a "_______" problem with a Glock
now, I'm not gonna say it doesn't happen, but I crank 180's downrange at 1,300+. My brass doesn't bulge out of my G20.
Maybe some .40's do. My 10mm doesn't, and it'll kick the crap out of a .40. Take it for what it's worth. This is my gun with my load.
I know there are guys here that have a LOT more experience than me. I also know there are some armchair coyboys that spout garbage and have no idea.
I'm not particularly a Glock fan, but I think there's more unfounded rumors than truth. YMMV.
BigSlick
Member
Reloading Glock brass isn't any different from any other brass you reload.
Toss out ANY brass that looks even slightly suspect upon inspection.
Obviously, if any looks pregnant, give it a toss.
From what I read into many of the KB's, they were predominantly traced back to either Federal ammo (possibly bad batches), shooting lead out of a polygynal barrel or pushing the limits of a 40 S&W reload. Many of these *may* have been double charged, others not.
I have reloaded quite a bit of brass fired in Glocks. It's easy to spot because the firing pin indent is unique. Like any other reloads, I don't push a load near, or to max levels without knowing the history of the brass first hand. I will load my own, known once fired brass a little hotter if necessary, or I will use new brass from Starline.
I have rarely found it necessary to load a particular round to max levels. Often, best accuracy is found with charges more in the mid and upper mid range of published data.
I load hunting rounds to the best accuracy, if accuracy doesn't suffer, I will load them hotter - up to max levels if no over-pressure signs occur.
If you don't feel comfortable reloading the brass, give it to someone who will. If your caveat is regarding *firing* reloads in a Glock due to unsupported case head, either buy an aftermarket barrel that offers better chamber support, or shoot reloads in another weapon.
Many reloaders shoot the Glock factory barrel with reloads with no problems. Most of those (that I am aware of) do so with plated or jacketed bullets only. Leading in the polygynal barrel can be bad juju if not cleaned regularly and properly.
In any event, don't trash the brass just because it has been fired from a Glock. Many pistol's utilize unsupported chamber designs. KB's occur in many pistols, not just Glocks. Glocks have certainly been more publicized, but that doesn't imply that you are immune from KB's in any pistol.
Component failure or user error when reloading can be catastrophic in any weapon.
Just my .02 cents... FWIW
BigSlick
Toss out ANY brass that looks even slightly suspect upon inspection.
Obviously, if any looks pregnant, give it a toss.
From what I read into many of the KB's, they were predominantly traced back to either Federal ammo (possibly bad batches), shooting lead out of a polygynal barrel or pushing the limits of a 40 S&W reload. Many of these *may* have been double charged, others not.
I have reloaded quite a bit of brass fired in Glocks. It's easy to spot because the firing pin indent is unique. Like any other reloads, I don't push a load near, or to max levels without knowing the history of the brass first hand. I will load my own, known once fired brass a little hotter if necessary, or I will use new brass from Starline.
I have rarely found it necessary to load a particular round to max levels. Often, best accuracy is found with charges more in the mid and upper mid range of published data.
I load hunting rounds to the best accuracy, if accuracy doesn't suffer, I will load them hotter - up to max levels if no over-pressure signs occur.
If you don't feel comfortable reloading the brass, give it to someone who will. If your caveat is regarding *firing* reloads in a Glock due to unsupported case head, either buy an aftermarket barrel that offers better chamber support, or shoot reloads in another weapon.
Many reloaders shoot the Glock factory barrel with reloads with no problems. Most of those (that I am aware of) do so with plated or jacketed bullets only. Leading in the polygynal barrel can be bad juju if not cleaned regularly and properly.
In any event, don't trash the brass just because it has been fired from a Glock. Many pistol's utilize unsupported chamber designs. KB's occur in many pistols, not just Glocks. Glocks have certainly been more publicized, but that doesn't imply that you are immune from KB's in any pistol.
Component failure or user error when reloading can be catastrophic in any weapon.
Just my .02 cents... FWIW
BigSlick
SDC
Member
No problems with reloads in either my 17 (9mm) or my 22 (40 S&W).
Brass
Big Slick;
I have a bunch of .40S&W brass I have been using for other than reloading, about 30% have the body at the base expanded about .025.
What is unique about the Glock firing pin strike that makes it readily identifiable?
Thank you, Don
Big Slick;
I have a bunch of .40S&W brass I have been using for other than reloading, about 30% have the body at the base expanded about .025.
What is unique about the Glock firing pin strike that makes it readily identifiable?
Thank you, Don
Jayman
Member
Glock firing pin leaves a vertical line across the primer, as opposed to most others that leave a round indent. Glock fired brass is very identifiable by that indicator.
BigSlick
Member
Jayman describes a Glock firing pin indention perfectly.
Look thru a few and you will see, the vertical indent vs. round used/caused from other pistols
BigSlick
Look thru a few and you will see, the vertical indent vs. round used/caused from other pistols
BigSlick
The Bushmaster
Member
I load lots of 9mm cases that have been fired in glocks and have had no problem. I am not a glock fan by no means, but the brass,if it looks OK it gets cleaned and reused.
Redneck2...Could you please explain your comment? I quote: "This is an absolute wild guess, but I suspect the cases that bulge the most have max loads of faster (and therefore cheaper) powder." I don't understand...If it's faster it's cheaper???
Redneck2...Could you please explain your comment? I quote: "This is an absolute wild guess, but I suspect the cases that bulge the most have max loads of faster (and therefore cheaper) powder." I don't understand...If it's faster it's cheaper???
Cloudpeak
Member
"Glock firing pin leaves a vertical line across the primer, as opposed to most others that leave a round indent. Glock fired brass is very identifiable by that indicator."
My XD40 SC leaves the same mark on the primers so it's not a sure fire way to tell the brass was shot in a Glock.
Cloudpeak
My XD40 SC leaves the same mark on the primers so it's not a sure fire way to tell the brass was shot in a Glock.
Cloudpeak
ReloaderFred
Member
What they are describing for the Glock firing pin mark should read as a raised rectangular area, with the firing pin indention in the middle. I think what you're seeing on your XD fired brass is firing pin swipe, which is pretty common with semi-auto pistols. Some just display it more than others and different powder burning rates also have an effect on the amount of primer swipe you will see.
Hope this helps.
Fred
Hope this helps.
Fred
redneck2
Member
Faster = cheaper
maybe not cheaper per #, but cheaper to use. You use less grains per load.
Example....use Bullseye (very fast) and you may use 4 grains for a given round. Use Unique and you may use twice that for a given round.
So why use the slower powder??? Well, for one, the slower powder takes up more space (you're using more) so it's easier to catch a double charge. Two, it's more forgiving because theres a wider load range (maybe 2 grains min to max load versus 1 grain for faster powder). Three, depending on the application, filling the case closer to maximum (particularly on a rifle) usually gives better accuracy.
Just got my new issue of Handloader yeserday. John Barsness has a really good article on pressure and it verifies my theory.
As for the bulge...suppose you're trying to close a door in your house. You can hit it fast with a hammer, but it will damage the door. Push it slow with your hand and it's fine. Takes the same force, but distributed over a wider area and longer period of time.
maybe not cheaper per #, but cheaper to use. You use less grains per load.
Example....use Bullseye (very fast) and you may use 4 grains for a given round. Use Unique and you may use twice that for a given round.
So why use the slower powder??? Well, for one, the slower powder takes up more space (you're using more) so it's easier to catch a double charge. Two, it's more forgiving because theres a wider load range (maybe 2 grains min to max load versus 1 grain for faster powder). Three, depending on the application, filling the case closer to maximum (particularly on a rifle) usually gives better accuracy.
Just got my new issue of Handloader yeserday. John Barsness has a really good article on pressure and it verifies my theory.
As for the bulge...suppose you're trying to close a door in your house. You can hit it fast with a hammer, but it will damage the door. Push it slow with your hand and it's fine. Takes the same force, but distributed over a wider area and longer period of time.
Cloudpeak
Member
ReloaderFred said:
"What they are describing for the Glock firing pin mark should read as a raised rectangular area, with the firing pin indention in the middle. I think what you're seeing on your XD fired brass is firing pin swipe, which is pretty common with semi-auto pistols. Some just display it more than others and different powder burning rates also have an effect on the amount of primer swipe you will see."
Thanks for the clarification, RF. The XD does indeed have firing pin swipe. I equated that to "a vertical line across the primer" but you're describing something different. I don't think I've ever seen what you've described. If someone has pictures, that would be great so I don't pick up any Glock brass at the range. (Or, perhaps one could keep all range brass separate and use them for reduced loads with lead bullets.)
Cloudpeak
"What they are describing for the Glock firing pin mark should read as a raised rectangular area, with the firing pin indention in the middle. I think what you're seeing on your XD fired brass is firing pin swipe, which is pretty common with semi-auto pistols. Some just display it more than others and different powder burning rates also have an effect on the amount of primer swipe you will see."
Thanks for the clarification, RF. The XD does indeed have firing pin swipe. I equated that to "a vertical line across the primer" but you're describing something different. I don't think I've ever seen what you've described. If someone has pictures, that would be great so I don't pick up any Glock brass at the range. (Or, perhaps one could keep all range brass separate and use them for reduced loads with lead bullets.)
Cloudpeak
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