Reloading newbie, looking for advice on setup

[Voodoo Blue]

Hi friends,
i am reloading newbie, meaning I have helped reload plenty and I have a general firearms and munitions background (retired military munitions).
I am starting as a newbie with an RCBS rockchucker kit, Lee carbide dies and a workbench. I intend on reloading 40 S&W for my Sig 320 and Springfield XD and probably 556.

I would like opinions:
- on whether 40S&W and 556 are a good idea to reload
- if I have the basics of everything I need to get started reloading
- can I consider using used brass in both chambers I mentioned above
- recommendations on projectiles for the 40 S&W

 

[forty_caliber]

Howdy and welcome to THR from Texas.

I'd venture to say that most of us use once-fired brass so you should be good in that regard. How are you planning to clean your brass?

Getting your feet wet it would be much better to start with the straight wall pistol cartridge. These are a little easier to do.

Do you have a reloading manual? What propellent, primer, and projectile are you planning to load with?

How do you plan to prime your brass? Since 40s&w comes in both small and large primer versions it would be a good idea to sort one from the other to avoid both expletives and rather loud noises in your reloading room.

For the rifle cartridge, you will need a couple of extra hand tools to get started. Case trimming device ( do this after sizing), inside and outside chamfer device at a minimum. Not to be captain obvious but the rifle cartridge will need different propellent, primer, and projectile.

You've come to the right place. Lots of knowledgeable folks here to help you along.

.40

 

[crestoncowboy]

Since 40s&w comes in both small and large primer versions

I dont know of any large primer .40. 10mm uses large. 45 uses both sizes. I've loaded well over 100k 40 s&w for probably 15 different guns. Mostly once fired brass given to me by the LE trainers in the state. Just watch out for a 357 sig casing that slips through. They look very similar.

I doubt any savings will be had loading 40 on a single stage press if time is worth anything. And 5.56 is about the same situation unless you want OTM or ballistic tips or something fancy. It's nice to have the ability. One never knows when ammo will be hard to find.

 

[crestoncowboy]

recommendations on projectiles for the 40 S&W

For cheap range ammo for .40 most use lead or plated 165 or 180 grain bullets. For cheap 5.56 most use cheap 55 grain bullets. I'd start there and learn the ropes. What do you want to use the ammo for and we can give better ideas on powder and projectiles.

And get a bullet puller. A cheap kinetic will work fine. Crap happens.

 

[Voodoo Blue]

Howdy and welcome to THR from Texas.

I'd venture to say that most of us use once-fired brass so you should be good in that regard. How are you planning to clean your brass?

Getting your feet wet it would be much better to start with the straight wall pistol cartridge. These are a little easier to do.

Do you have a reloading manual? What propellent, primer, and projectile are you planning to load with?

How do you plan to prime your brass? Since 40s&w comes in both small and large primer versions it would be a good idea to sort one from the other to avoid both expletives and rather loud noises in your reloading room.

For the rifle cartridge, you will need a couple of extra hand tools to get started. Case trimming device ( do this after sizing), inside and outside chamfer device at a minimum. Not to be captain obvious but the rifle cartridge will need different propellent, primer, and projectile.

You've come to the right place. Lots of knowledgeable folks here to help you along.

.40

Hi there. Thanks for replying. I do have a Nosler reloading manual that came with the RCBS kit. I plan to use Blue Dot or Green Dot (depends on what is available on shelf) propellant, CCI primers (they are cheap but plz tell me if this is a case of getting what you pay for). I do not have an idea for brand of projectile yet, but I am goign to use 135 grain JHP. Good tip, as I did not know 40 came in small and large primer versions. I have a hand primer that came with the kit as well.

 

[Voodoo Blue]

For cheap range ammo for .40 most use lead or plated 165 or 180 grain bullets. For cheap 5.56 most use cheap 55 grain bullets. I'd start there and learn the ropes. What do you want to use the ammo for and we can give better ideas on powder and projectiles.

And get a bullet puller. A cheap kinetic will work fine. Crap happens.

both 40S&W are my EDC, so primarily for self defense although I would like a round that I can use on the range to stay proficient.

As for the 556, this would be a jack of all trades round. Range, some varmint, self defense

 

[Voodoo Blue]

I dont know of any large primer .40. 10mm uses large. 45 uses both sizes. I've loaded well over 100k 40 s&w for probably 15 different guns. Mostly once fired brass given to me by the LE trainers in the state. Just watch out for a 357 sig casing that slips through. They look very similar.

I doubt any savings will be had loading 40 on a single stage press if time is worth anything. And 5.56 is about the same situation unless you want OTM or ballistic tips or something fancy. It's nice to have the ability. One never knows when ammo will be hard to find.

Right now time is not a concern. This is hobby driven but also with the understanding that ammo is sometimes hard to find but the components are less so

 

[crestoncowboy]

I use a 40 for ccw and for competition. Right now I keep buying trade in winchester rangers for 125-150 for 500. You cant load a good self defense bullet for that. You can barely load lead much cheaper even with my getting the brass for free. I throw the brass in a tub and buy primers for when ammo goes up. The cheaper defensive bullet for 40 that is readily available is the Hornady XTP in my experience. I use a ton of them in 10mm but have used them for the 40 as well. There are better bullets in my opinion like the gold dot or Silvertips but they can be hard to find in stock. For cheap range bullets I use RMR, Berrys, xtreme or one if those guys. Just a cheap plated bullet. If you want lead then there are options for that too. Most of my steel shooting ammo is lead bullets at the moment. I check Oregon trail, Missouri bullets, meister, and a few others and order a few thousand 180 grain swc at a time. They have all been great. I cant say that I've found a bullet that I just hated for range/competition use. They have all been fine. I prefer a plated hollow point or lead for steel targets. I just feel they may be easier on my targets but I have no evidence of that at all. Lol

For 5.56 I use a 55 grain v-max for varmint and a plated 55gr FMJ for play. Usually over varget, ar comp, or win 748. Shortages force you to try new powders and bullets. For range use most work fine. I use varget for my varmint loads.

 

[.308 Norma]

CCI primers (they are cheap but plz tell me if this is a case of getting what you pay for).

Howdy Voodoo Blue! Welcome to THR!
I probably use CCI primers at least 95% of the time. That might be because CCI primers are what I started with so many years ago, and that's undoubtedly because CCI primers were the most readily available around here - they're made in Idaho. Anyway, I didn't know CCI primers were "cheap" - at least not cheaper than the other brands. I'll take your word about that, but I'll have to say if they are cheaper, you'll get a lot more than you're paying for with CCI primers. Later on, you might find you like other brands better for some applications (I have) but you won't go wrong starting out with CCI primers.
As for other equipment you'll need to start out with, you'll need shell holders for both your 40 S&W and you .556 - I don't think they use the same one. But that's okay, shell holders are inexpensive anyway. When I start loading for a new cartridge I buy 2 shell holders - one to keep in the die box, and one to keep in my hand priming tool box.
BTW, you don't have to have a separate priming tool. You can prime with your press. I have a hand priming tool because I like to prime cases while sitting in front of the TV in the living room with a cup of coffee.

 

[Wildbillz]

I just started loading 40 S&W myself. Since I am using a lot of range pickup brass I went ahead and got a Redding G-Rx sizing die. It supposedly takes out any bulges in the case due to unsupported chambers. I don't know if its truly needed but it makes me feel better. I also have started to wet tumbling the cases, makes them look brand new. Bullet wise I have a bag of 155grn Fmj that I got from Rocky Mountain Reloading. The use to get some good deals on pull down JHP bullets from time to time. Right now is not a great time to be looking for supplies. But take your time and find what you want or need. Both calibers can be done on your single stage press. I reloaded on a RockChucker exclusively for about 25 years.

Best of luck
WB

 

[kmw1954]

I am one of Those that seldom sees a poor reason to not reload. It is a fine hobby of itself and for me provides much relaxation. Aside, also being retired it provides a means to also keep my hands busy and the mind sharp. It can save a small amount of money but that like most is eaten up by more affordable shooting of greater amounts.

 

[crestoncowboy]

As far as primers ive had to use cci, winchester, federal..... even som oddball foreign brands during shortages. I have no preference and don't really care which of the big brands. Some people say certain cups are too hard/soft and some are definately harder/softer but I suspect the issue is more with their guns than the primer if its actually causing a problem. (Except for those that fit in the case vertically. I avoid those if possible. They just take up too much space for no reason. Federal match I believe is one) Also, bullets are typically a lot cheaper in bulk. Primers arent as much. I've actually seen 100 primers for 2.99 while 1000 in a case beside them was 34.00. That's said, primers tend to be scarce early on in shortages. Powder too. And if you order online you may as well order a lot to cover Hazmat shipping charges or wait until a no hazmat sale.

With the 5.56 many people will tell you that you have to use military primers because of the firing pin design in AR rifles. Some do many dont. And many shoot a lot of 223 in their AR rifles as well (therefore commercial primers rather tha. The harder ones)

 

[Bartojc]

For projectiles for target shooting look a RMR for pistol. Good stuff and very reasonable. For .223 I’d run some FMJ of some sort. I use Hornady and they are cheap if you buy bulk. I think I got some for .06-.08 per round. They are not the most accurate but for fun in an AR they’ll work. For varmint in .223 I like Sierra Pro Hunter and Nosler Varmegeddon for price and accuracy.

I use only range pickups and used brass for pistol. I use used brass for .223 as well but I am a little more selective of where it comes from. I saved brass that I shot before I started reloading or I use brass from friends so I know it is once fired. I monitor rifle brass and watch for neck hardening and warning signs of case head separation.

CCI is my primer of choice in both pistol and rifle. I have used others but prefer CCI.

I do not compete so I’ve really never messed with BR primers or match bullets. I’m sure they are worth it if you can shoot the difference. I doubt I or my equipment can.

Jeff

 

[rfwobbly]

Welcome Aboard !

• All cartridges and calibers are worth reloading
• You may have the basics. But reloading is like any hobby, there are lots of accessories that make it bigger and better... and you never have all of those !
• Recycling brass is what eventually pays off the equipment. The brass represents about 65% of the cost of new ammo, and reloading of old brass saves you about 50%. While you can buy new brass, that can get pretty expensive.
• We recommend Rocky Mountain Reloading and/or Missouri Bullet Co. Both offer THR members 5% discounts on their already low prices. You should most definitely begin with the 40S&W and RMR jacketed or plated bullets until you have a rock-solid process. (Remember, you'll be learning your machine AND reloading at the same time, so it's a pretty steep climb.) Then you can add on your 223 later on, which will add about 6-10 more steps onto the process for 40. So learn to walk, then you can try running.

 

[sparkyv]

Howdy, from Texas. 40S&W is the simplest cartridge I reload, hands down. An excellent place to start, IMO, though I've never heard of LPP in 40S&W. Responses to some of your questions/comments, Voodoo Blue:
CCI primers are hard to beat. I recommend using load data from at least two trusted sources. The Rockchucker is an awesome press, except for dealing with the spent primers. I do not reload for SD purposes, and don't recommend it for newbies. The SIG P320 in 40S&W is my current favorite handgun in that caliber. rfwobbly makes some good points:

• We recommend Rocky Mountain Reloading and/or Missouri Bullet Co. Both offer THR members 5% discounts on their already low prices. You should most definitely begin with the 40S&W and RMR jacketed or plated bullets until you have a rock-solid process. (Remember, you'll be learning your machine AND reloading at the same time, so it's a pretty steep climb.) Then you can add on your 223 later on, which will add about 6-10 more steps onto the process for 40. So learn to walk, then you can try running.

[edit] I forgot to mention that I highly recommend plunk testing every round, or better yet, run each round through a cartridge gauge. Don't ask me how I know...

 

[Hikingman]

You might consider depriming with a universal type die before sizing like many of us, and crimping in a separate step with a Lee FCD (crimp die).

As was mentioned in the previous post, CCI primers are hard to beat.

 

[Hondo 60]

Hello and welcome to THR

Every caliber is a good one to reload!
40S&W can be a bit fickle.

223/5.56 is a good one as far as rifle rounds go.
IMHO 38 Spl is the easiest & more forgiving.

Welcome to the addict ... oh, I mean hobby.
Ya, that's it hobby

 

[sequins]

Rocky mountain reloading sells a Jacketed 180gn 0.40" bullet that I load for 40 and 10mm. It's a really accurate bullet and it shoots lights out.

For powder I'm thinking AA#9 or Power Pistol, that's where I've had best results in 10mm amd 40.

I prefer CCI primers but many prefer federal, winchester is also acceptable or foreign stuff at a great price can work fine too. Still, I prefer CCI.

You got the right budget dies (I prefer lee at the bottom, Redding at the top, and those are the only brands on my bench)

The manual put out by Lyman is IMHO the best single manual, but depending on your propellant and bullets you may also want a manual from hornady, speer, alliant, or Hodgdon.

Good luck have fun and be safe!