Reloading opinion neededStill

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test drive

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ok let me set some back story. Back in 2009 I got into IDPA. I was shooting a 1911 in .45.
Where I worked I was able to bring wheel weights home by the bucket full. So I got a Lee hand loading kit, it’s slow but it worked. I would melt down the wheel wights (the lead ones) and cast simi wad-cutters with HS6 powder. This worked great, cheep and accurate and no leading problems. I guess because it was low pressure? But when I would cast rounds for 9mm the leading problem was really bad. Maybe because high pressure ? Anyway now I wou like to mold bullets for my Ruger Blackhawk .357/.38 will the wheel weight lead cause leading problem ? If so I will stick to using jacketed bullets but I’d sure like to use wheel weights ! Still using a hand loading kit but it works. By the way I’m using universal powder.
 
I have shot thousands of bullets cast from wheel weights. The accuracy and economy of wheel weight cast bullets can be certainly there. However the bullets I used cast from wheel weights did cause leading. Dealing with leading isn't that big of a deal if you know how to deal with it. It adds about 2- 3 minutes to the cleaning time.
 
9mm's can vary greatly in barrel dimensions. .357 or .358 dia cast bullets are not unheard of in 9mm pistols. A larger diameter may solve your problem.
 
In my experience the hardness of the lead bullets contributed more to the leading than the diameter of the bullet.

Try it both ways.
 
I've not had very good luck shooting cast in 9mm either. My recommendation would be to start powder coating. Startup cost is pretty minimal and its not hard to do.
 
You got to slug your barrel to see what size of bullet you need. Not doing this is just asking for leading no matter how slow/fast they are or how hard/soft the bullets are.
 
If your wheel weight alloy .38 bullets are the correct size they will not lead the barrel. Cast them to at least .358" and you will be fine. More leading is caused by bullets that are too narrow than being too soft.
 
wheel weight composition has changed, and includes more zinc, which shrinks the bullet, and causes leading. As mentioned, 9mm has shakey barrel consistancy. 9mm is higher pressure, higher velocity, and often shallower rifled -every one of which will cause leading. I get awful leading in my Springfield G.I., no matter the load but never an issue from that. I get moderate leading in 38 rugers, but likewise, no issue with accuracy and self limiting. I would order 500 from Missouri Cast, and see how it does before you buy the moulds. missour only costs a slight amount more than bulk lead anyway. If your wheelweight source is still sound (glueon are supposed to be still), maybe thats not worth it to you.
 
Leading can be caused by a number of issues.

Sounds like bullet hardness is OK
Bullet size vs barrel size
Wrong powder for caliber/size
wrong powder charge - too much or too little can cause leading.

Cleaning up leading can be pretty easy.
Just get a copper chore boy (not copper coated steel)
Pull a longish strand & wrap it around a bronze brush or cotton mop.
I clean gun normally & then check for leading.
If it's there, use the copper wrapped brush/mop - 5 - 10 strokes & usually it's gone.
If not, just repeat.
 
There seems to be a magic number around 1000fps. When you cross that barrier with lead bullets, then you got to get busy improving your game. So you can shoot 38 wad cutters and 45 cal cast RN all day at 850fps and feel like a pro. But most all 9x19 Luger ammo shoots at 1050fps and above, and so problems start to appear as if from no where.

The guys have given you some excellent suggestions above. Get serious about improving those areas and ALL your bullets will be better.
 
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