Reloading rifle rounds

Skgreen said:
You may consider obtaining a case gauge.

As mentioned previously, cases will need cut/chamfered/deburred etc. I have one of these:

https://www.frankfordarsenal.com/ca...-series-case-trim-and-prep-center/903156.html

Been using it for several years now. No complaints worth mentioning.
Click to expand...

My friend and new reloader bought one of these and let me use it, has about 1500, 223 rem and 5.56 cases to prep, it worked very well as most processes for brass prep are done on one machine. The only thing I couldn't do well was removing primer crimps from milspec brass as the champher tool on this model was a vld type, longer with a shallow angle, than a regular champher tool. Had only one operation to do by hand.
 
Did OP ever give an indication of expectations from this reloaded ammo? Something to plink bottle caps two zip codes over.......or something to go BANG? I have not been at this all that long, but long enough to know that question matters as to what equipment you need. What type and how much.
 
Crazy Horse said:
Wow. Thanks everyone for all the recommendations.

I have a lyman trimmer that i had forgotten i had since you don't need to trim pistol brass. I definitely have to take it out for use. Including the casing lube and pad. .i usually use hornady case lube, but it seems that ensuring complete lubing on a rifle case is more critical.

I will definitely look in YouTube on seating techniques. I've heard of folks use the magic market method. I've done coal measurements for some of my pistols, but only when using lead costed rounds (9mm) since they seem to have a fatter ogive than jacketed bullets.

It'll definitely be much slower on reloading rifle cartridges, but in this case i much prefer quality over quantity.

I purchased rcbs dies at Bass pro. They are two die set and have started looking around for good recipes. Leaning on H4350 powder, but still on the fence on projectiles. They are definitely more expensive than pistol bullets.

I really appreciate all the recommendations and will definitely take my time.

happy holidays

CH
Click to expand...
While you are buying, pick up the Lyman Reloading Manual, 50th Anniversary Edition (or something similar that is up to date) as it will include the 6.5 Creedmore reloading info you are looking for regarding primers, powders (including weights) and bullets. Don't be surprised if you have to experiment with different powders (and/or weights) and bullets (type and weights). Time?? Time is something we have lots of in the winter. It's too dark after dinner to mow the lawn, play softball or ride bikes (for those old enough that have found out they can't drive after dark-you young guys will find out what that is like as you get older).
 
Congrats on the new rifle. I think you will find the 6.5 Creedmoor pleasant to shoot and reload for. I have not found it finicky in the least. I think the folks above have hit on the rifle-specific things to bear in mind. I will reiterate a few (or quite a few) in a bullet-point list because I like to hear myself talk:
  • As has been said, you'll have to trim your brass now. Maybe every time, though that hasn't been my experience with 6.5 Creedmoor. I only need to trim my 6.5 Creedmoor brass every 2-3 firings. Trim after resizing. If I have any case in a batch near to or over the max length after resizing, I trim the whole lot back down to the trim-to length to keep them uniform. It sounds like you already have a trimmer, so you should probably stick with that for now. But if you start looking to upgrade it, I like my LE Wilson trimmer--it holds the case around the body instead of just by the rim, and it doesn't use a pilot in the case mouth/neck.
  • On the subject of brass, I recommend buying 100-200 pieces of the same brand all at once and keeping them in batches to track how many times they have been fired. My 6.5 Creedmoor brass is either: (i) Lapua with the large rifle primer pocket (for my target rifle), or (ii) Hornady with a large rifle primer (for my hunting rifle).
  • For lube, I recommend Hornady's wax. Unlike Imperial, I can find it in stock at my local big box or gun store. It works great without the mess of a pad or the fumes of a spray, and one little tub of the stuff has lasted me years. I'm sure Imperial is great too, I just haven't ever seen it in person.
  • I have a case gauge for every rifle cartridge I load for. I hadn't seen the cutout one pictured above, but that looks like a good one. Mine are from Lyman or LE Wilson. They work great but you can't see inside of them.
  • For dies, I'm partial to Forster and Redding. RCBS, Hornady, and Lee all work too. Once you start using a micrometer seating die for rifle reloading, I don't think you'll go back.
  • Hornady's cross-thread die lock rings are great. I have them on virtually all of my dies now. They don't booger the threads when you tighten them down, and they have wrench flats.
  • I weigh every powder charge when loading for my bolt action rifles. I waited too long to buy an RCBS Chargemaster Lite. It's pricy and not technically needed (a Lee dipper or measuring spoons, a trickler, and a balance beam scale work just fine), but once you get bitten by the bug I think you'll appreciate the time saved by an automatic powder dispenser. If you have the funds, I highly recommend it.
  • I recommend getting Hornady's comparator kits and the case-length gauge. The headspace comparator kit will help you set your die up correctly so that you aren't overworking your brass. The bullet comparator kit helps you measure your cartridge length based off the bullet ogive, which is more accurate than measuring from the tip, and when paired with the OAL gauge can help you determine safe seating depths you can try. You'll need a modified 6.5 Creedmoor case (Hornady sells them) that will screw onto the OAL gauge.
  • H4350 is the "standard" powder for the Creedmoor, though any powder around that approximate burn rate works well. I also use Reloder 16 and IMR 4451.
  • Bullet selection is highly personal - pick one that fits your purpose and that your rifle likes. My Creedmoors get along with about any bullet I've fed them so far, but you may have to shoot a few to find one yours likes.
  • In addition to the Lyman manual someone else recommended (which I also recommend), I would also suggest getting a current reloading manual from the bullet manufacturer(s) whose bullets you plan to shoot. I like having multiple sources of reloading data, and I think it's important to have data for the specific bullet you intend to shoot, particularly when you are starting out.
Be safe and have fun!
 
Okie_Poke said:
Congrats on the new rifle. I think you will find the 6.5 Creedmoor pleasant to shoot and reload for. I have not found it finicky in the least. I think the folks above have hit on the rifle-specific things to bear in mind. I will reiterate a few (or quite a few) in a bullet-point list because I like to hear myself talk:
  • As has been said, you'll have to trim your brass now. Maybe every time, though that hasn't been my experience with 6.5 Creedmoor. I only need to trim my 6.5 Creedmoor brass every 2-3 firings. Trim after resizing. If I have any case in a batch near to or over the max length after resizing, I trim the whole lot back down to the trim-to length to keep them uniform. It sounds like you already have a trimmer, so you should probably stick with that for now. But if you start looking to upgrade it, I like my LE Wilson trimmer--it holds the case around the body instead of just by the rim, and it doesn't use a pilot in the case mouth/neck.
  • On the subject of brass, I recommend buying 100-200 pieces of the same brand all at once and keeping them in batches to track how many times they have been fired. My 6.5 Creedmoor brass is either: (i) Lapua with the large rifle primer pocket (for my target rifle), or (ii) Hornady with a large rifle primer (for my hunting rifle).
  • For lube, I recommend Hornady's wax. Unlike Imperial, I can find it in stock at my local big box or gun store. It works great without the mess of a pad or the fumes of a spray, and one little tub of the stuff has lasted me years. I'm sure Imperial is great too, I just haven't ever seen it in person.
  • I have a case gauge for every rifle cartridge I load for. I hadn't seen the cutout one pictured above, but that looks like a good one. Mine are from Lyman or LE Wilson. They work great but you can't see inside of them.
  • For dies, I'm partial to Forster and Redding. RCBS, Hornady, and Lee all work too. Once you start using a micrometer seating die for rifle reloading, I don't think you'll go back.
  • Hornady's cross-thread die lock rings are great. I have them on virtually all of my dies now. They don't booger the threads when you tighten them down, and they have wrench flats.
  • I weigh every powder charge when loading for my bolt action rifles. I waited too long to buy an RCBS Chargemaster Lite. It's pricy and not technically needed (a Lee dipper or measuring spoons, a trickler, and a balance beam scale work just fine), but once you get bitten by the bug I think you'll appreciate the time saved by an automatic powder dispenser. If you have the funds, I highly recommend it.
  • I recommend getting Hornady's comparator kits and the case-length gauge. The headspace comparator kit will help you set your die up correctly so that you aren't overworking your brass. The bullet comparator kit helps you measure your cartridge length based off the bullet ogive, which is more accurate than measuring from the tip, and when paired with the OAL gauge can help you determine safe seating depths you can try. You'll need a modified 6.5 Creedmoor case (Hornady sells them) that will screw onto the OAL gauge.
  • H4350 is the "standard" powder for the Creedmoor, though any powder around that approximate burn rate works well. I also use Reloder 16 and IMR 4451.
  • Bullet selection is highly personal - pick one that fits your purpose and that your rifle likes. My Creedmoors get along with about any bullet I've fed them so far, but you may have to shoot a few to find one yours likes.
  • In addition to the Lyman manual someone else recommended (which I also recommend), I would also suggest getting a current reloading manual from the bullet manufacturer(s) whose bullets you plan to shoot. I like having multiple sources of reloading data, and I think it's important to have data for the specific bullet you intend to shoot, particularly when you are starting out.
Be safe and have fun!
Click to expand...
Okie poke.

Thank you very much for providing so many details. I've been able to find powfer, a case gauge, and dies. Of course, the issue is large rifle primers. The good thing is that i still have some time. Hopefully I'll be able to find some LRP's in January.

I purchased 3 boxes of ammunition (prior to reading your recommendation) to try out. They are all LRP's which is good. Hopefully I'll be able to get the rifle zeroed with those rounds, then I'll follow your recommendation on getting 100 rounds from the same manufacturer.

Thanks again and happy new year.

CH
 
Crazy Horse said:
Okie poke.

Thank you very much for providing so many details. I've been able to find powfer, a case gauge, and dies. Of course, the issue is large rifle primers. The good thing is that i still have some time. Hopefully I'll be able to find some LRP's in January.

I purchased 3 boxes of ammunition (prior to reading your recommendation) to try out. They are all LRP's which is good. Hopefully I'll be able to get the rifle zeroed with those rounds, then I'll follow your recommendation on getting 100 rounds from the same manufacturer.

Thanks again and happy new year.

CH
Click to expand...
https://www.grafs.com/catalog/product/productId/76155
The srp is worth it because you can find srp
 
Highland Lofts said:
I don't skimp on quality when it comes to reloading equipment. For dial calipers I want a high quality set.
Click to expand...

Even a high quality set can get out of wack. I suggest standards, hopefully close to the dimensions you wish to measure. If the cheap ones read correctly they are fine, even if they don’t feel as good.

74F0FDE7-72C7-4060-B57F-46FC0D814DF2.jpeg

If it’s ultimate accuracy you are looking for, calipers are not the right tool anyway. That’s what micrometers are for.
 
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