Reloading
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Phillip Allen
Member
start with a good manuel...take it home and read it then make a list
manuels come from companies that make equipment and components...bare that in mind when reading their suggestions
1. book
2. press
3. dies
4. scales (or appropriate substitute…I prefer the scales)
5. powder funnel
6. loading block (you can make your own easily and some of the dies have them built into the boxes)
7. good light and work area with out people talking to you while weighing charges (no smoking signs)
8. keep ALL solvents away from your loading bench (did I point out you need a heavy work surface you can drill holes in?)
9. bullets
10. powder
11. primers
12. cases to reload
everything else is nice but not strictly required…if you’re going to load a hundred rounds at a time…forget the automatic stuff…if you intend to load scads of ammo…get the simple stuff first and the automatic stuff next year
Get the book first…I have a whole library of them and save the outdated ones…experience will suggest why.
manuels come from companies that make equipment and components...bare that in mind when reading their suggestions
1. book
2. press
3. dies
4. scales (or appropriate substitute…I prefer the scales)
5. powder funnel
6. loading block (you can make your own easily and some of the dies have them built into the boxes)
7. good light and work area with out people talking to you while weighing charges (no smoking signs)
8. keep ALL solvents away from your loading bench (did I point out you need a heavy work surface you can drill holes in?)
9. bullets
10. powder
11. primers
12. cases to reload
everything else is nice but not strictly required…if you’re going to load a hundred rounds at a time…forget the automatic stuff…if you intend to load scads of ammo…get the simple stuff first and the automatic stuff next year
Get the book first…I have a whole library of them and save the outdated ones…experience will suggest why.
Tbu61
Member
Welcome to the world of reloading.
You can go plenty of different routes and get the same result.
I personally recommend a single stage press for the beginner, set-up is easier and there is less to monitor. Contrary to popular belief, you can load a ton of Ammo on a Single stage. It just takes longer.... I have 2 RCBS JR presses on my bench and can load about 1500 rounds a day with my son to assist.
The basics are:
1. A good reloading book, (several is better).
2. Press
3. Dies/holders
4. Powder throw
5. Accurate powder scale
6. Sturdy work table/bench
7. Shell case tray (blocks).
8. Caliper micrometer to measure finished shell length.
A well lighted/ventilated/clean space located away from distractions is vital.
Assure plenty of elbow room and I don't recommend reloading over nice carpet, it can get dirty.
You can get most of the required items on e-bay or even at a Pawn shop.
I got my first complete set-up for around $100.
I also recommend you enlist an experienced mentor for your first session, it's just common sense to play it safe.
You can go plenty of different routes and get the same result.
I personally recommend a single stage press for the beginner, set-up is easier and there is less to monitor. Contrary to popular belief, you can load a ton of Ammo on a Single stage. It just takes longer.... I have 2 RCBS JR presses on my bench and can load about 1500 rounds a day with my son to assist.
The basics are:
1. A good reloading book, (several is better).
2. Press
3. Dies/holders
4. Powder throw
5. Accurate powder scale
6. Sturdy work table/bench
7. Shell case tray (blocks).
8. Caliper micrometer to measure finished shell length.
A well lighted/ventilated/clean space located away from distractions is vital.
Assure plenty of elbow room and I don't recommend reloading over nice carpet, it can get dirty.
You can get most of the required items on e-bay or even at a Pawn shop.
I got my first complete set-up for around $100.
I also recommend you enlist an experienced mentor for your first session, it's just common sense to play it safe.
Vern Humphrey
Member
It depends on what your goals are and how much you're willing to spend.
You can start with a Lee Handpress kit ($25.99 from www.midwayusa.com), add dies ($20.69 for each carbide 3-die set, $27.99 for the 4-die set with separate crimp die) and that's really all you need. You'll use the dipper that comes with the die sets to measure powder (and you won't get a max charge.)
The RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme Master Single Stage Kit goes for $245.99, less dies but will do more (especially in the matter of resizing tough cases) and includes a scale and adjustable powder measure.
The Lyman T-Mag 2 Turret Press Expert Kit at $314.99 (less dies) is a step up with a self-indexing 6-hole turret -- you can set up two complete die sets on this one and leave them set.
From there, you could go to a progressive reloader -- for about twice what the Lyman would cost.
The first two choices require you to change out dies for each step of the process -- you screw in and adjust the sizing/decapping dies and size your cases, then install the expander die to flare the case mouths (and you re-prime the cases at the same time). Then you unscrew that die, install the bullet seating die, and finally go to the crimp die.
With the turret press, you can install all dies at once -- even for two different cartridges -- and your reloading is speeded up quite a bit.
The progressives automatically index the case holder with each pull of the handle. At the first pull, the first case is sized and deprimed, then the case holder moves. You insert a second case, pull the handle and size and deprime that case -- while the first case is primed and flared at the same time. Or in other words, you keep feeding in cases, and a loade cartridge pops out at each pull of the handle.
You can start with a Lee Handpress kit ($25.99 from www.midwayusa.com), add dies ($20.69 for each carbide 3-die set, $27.99 for the 4-die set with separate crimp die) and that's really all you need. You'll use the dipper that comes with the die sets to measure powder (and you won't get a max charge.)
The RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme Master Single Stage Kit goes for $245.99, less dies but will do more (especially in the matter of resizing tough cases) and includes a scale and adjustable powder measure.
The Lyman T-Mag 2 Turret Press Expert Kit at $314.99 (less dies) is a step up with a self-indexing 6-hole turret -- you can set up two complete die sets on this one and leave them set.
From there, you could go to a progressive reloader -- for about twice what the Lyman would cost.
The first two choices require you to change out dies for each step of the process -- you screw in and adjust the sizing/decapping dies and size your cases, then install the expander die to flare the case mouths (and you re-prime the cases at the same time). Then you unscrew that die, install the bullet seating die, and finally go to the crimp die.
With the turret press, you can install all dies at once -- even for two different cartridges -- and your reloading is speeded up quite a bit.
The progressives automatically index the case holder with each pull of the handle. At the first pull, the first case is sized and deprimed, then the case holder moves. You insert a second case, pull the handle and size and deprime that case -- while the first case is primed and flared at the same time. Or in other words, you keep feeding in cases, and a loade cartridge pops out at each pull of the handle.
I would suggest the Lee Anniversary Kit at Midway. It will all the basics and it comes with the Lee manual, which is very diverse and and has comprehensive instructions for the novice. The Lee Challenger press will be super strong enough for pistol calibres and 99% of rifle calibres. Single stage presses is all you need to be worrying about now, until you get the basics down. You can always upgrade if you decide it's for you, before you throw money at all the gadgets.
BTW, you need to purchase a set of reloading dies with this kit. I like Lee and RCBS. Both of these will work with the Lee Press in this kit. - SC
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=820810
Also you might check out the reloading section of this forum. It's got a lot of good info about presses, dies, etc, however I would only take loads from the published manuals, until you know what you're doing. Above all else be careful. Bad reloads is one of the quickest way I know to ruin your gun and hurt yourself.
BTW, you need to purchase a set of reloading dies with this kit. I like Lee and RCBS. Both of these will work with the Lee Press in this kit. - SC
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=820810
Also you might check out the reloading section of this forum. It's got a lot of good info about presses, dies, etc, however I would only take loads from the published manuals, until you know what you're doing. Above all else be careful. Bad reloads is one of the quickest way I know to ruin your gun and hurt yourself.
I'm in it for the bulk practice rounds, not the mega-powered or ultra high accuracy rounds, so I started with a Dillon 550B and don't regret skipping the single stage. You can learn on the 550B one station at a time with one round at a time, but it requires a lot more focus this way.
If you are not attentive to little details, or are not able to watch what you are doing very closely, get a single stage for sure. Before buying anything, get 1 or 2 reloading manuals and read them cover-to-cover. You must know what you're doing or you'll set yourself up for disaster.
I highly recommend the Lyman manual.
If you are not attentive to little details, or are not able to watch what you are doing very closely, get a single stage for sure. Before buying anything, get 1 or 2 reloading manuals and read them cover-to-cover. You must know what you're doing or you'll set yourself up for disaster.
I highly recommend the Lyman manual.
trickyasafox
Member
a lot of people will push for a single stage and with good reason, but i think using a turret without the auto index to begin with will give you a lot more room to grow within a press and should be considered. For a reasonable amount of volume, i'd expect to pay about 200 and you'd be pretty well under way. a tumbler is nice, but not necessary. that would put you in the 240 range. this is all pretty good stuff though, and you really would be pressed to out grow it quickly. some people can turn out 250 rounds an hour on that press 
a break down might be
lee 3rd edition reload. manual 12
lee turret (classic cast) 84
spare turret 8.50
40sw 4 die set 29
45acp 4 die set 29
auto disk 20
auto disk riser 6.5
thats 189. probably figure the other 11 for shipping. all prices from midwayusa.com if you have a C&R liscense, knock about 14-15 bucks off if you send them a copy to get dealer discount.
a break down might be
lee 3rd edition reload. manual 12
lee turret (classic cast) 84
spare turret 8.50
40sw 4 die set 29
45acp 4 die set 29
auto disk 20
auto disk riser 6.5
thats 189. probably figure the other 11 for shipping. all prices from midwayusa.com if you have a C&R liscense, knock about 14-15 bucks off if you send them a copy to get dealer discount.
Your first step is buying the best reference book or what I call Reloading for Dummies or The ABC's of Reloading from Krause Publications.
There are several great reloading manuals of the real kind not the freebee ones! Paperback manuals are good for cross referencing data, at times. For meaty manuals a person can not go wrong with the Lyman48th and Sierra. One must always look at the loads when you compare data. Especially in larger calibers as some data might be using different brass from yours. Case in point Hodgdon used WW brass to work up loads with, whereas Sierra used Fed cases in their 308 Winchester loading information.
Press - Single Stage or Turret presses are the best way to learn before advancing to any kind of progressive press. You will always have need for a single stage press. Redding and RCBS are good sources of all kinds of presses. RCBS Rockchucker Supreme for a single stage and Redding T7 for a turret press are basically the gold standard for press types.
Dies - I like Redding Dies, and I would get the carbide expander ball upgrade for bottle neck rifle cases. Dillon makes carbide rifle sizer dies, but you still need to use case lube and make sure you lube the inside of the case neck, too. I would just stick with regular dies for rifle cartridges. Dillon makes die sets specifically for their press so to speak, meaning that it does not come with a case mouth belling die; Redding makes a set of dies for progressive presses, too. I like Forster competition seaters, and they can be had as an individual item. Dies are pretty much threaded universally, except for Lyman 310 dies, and Dillon dies for the Square Deal N. Accuracy nuts will use hand dies, and they require an arbor press be used.
Shell holders (if the die set doesn't have them like Lee) or the appropriate shell plate for the progressive press. Remember that many shell holders work for more then one cartridge. I would do some home work, especially if you get a Dillon. Some cartridge conversions might only require you to get powder funnel for the new cartridge.
A tumbler will be a good investment, as clean cases will not harm you dies. There are vibratory and rotary tumblers out there. I like corn cob media treated with some Iosso case polish. You can get walnut in bulk at Petco or Pet Smart. Bulk corn cob grit is a great way to reduce the cost of commercially supplied media, because you pay through the nose for the treated media from other vendors.
MTM makes great loading block tray that handles most cartridges.
Case Lube is great for both conventional dies, and to treat your brass used in a progressive press even with carbide dies. That extra lubricity makes the cycling of the press a tad slicker! Dillon spray lube works well for shake and bake application. I like Imperial Die Wax for rifle cartridges when FL sizing.
Case Neck Brush to clean bottleneck rifle cases
Dial Calipers
Case Trimmer (Lee works, but Possum Hollow is better, Wilson makes the best hand powered Lathe trimmer, and Giraud is the best powered Trimmer)
Deburring/Chamfering Tool
Primer Pocket Cleaner and uniformer
Primer Flip Tray is needed for loading pick up tubes for some primer systems like the Dillon.
Priming Tool (I like the RCBS (now even better with universal shell holder, but Sinclair makes the best)
Powder Scale - remember that is always better to have a mechanical scale as a back up to any electronic scale.
Powder Funnel kit with drop tubes especially if you intend to use powders like Varget.
Powder Trickler (used to tweak powder charges )
Powder Measure (nice for faster powder charges it does require a bit of learning curve to get consistent powder charges sort of rhythm thing) standard with progressive presses, but the RCBS Uniflow is nice! Redding makes a better one, and Harrell is the gold standard!
Hammer Type Bullet Puller (for taking down the boo boo's)
Ammo boxes and labels
A notebook for recording your results! Saves covering the same ground twice!
A chronograph is great when working up loads, but is more a luxury in the beginning.
There are several great reloading manuals of the real kind not the freebee ones! Paperback manuals are good for cross referencing data, at times. For meaty manuals a person can not go wrong with the Lyman48th and Sierra. One must always look at the loads when you compare data. Especially in larger calibers as some data might be using different brass from yours. Case in point Hodgdon used WW brass to work up loads with, whereas Sierra used Fed cases in their 308 Winchester loading information.
Press - Single Stage or Turret presses are the best way to learn before advancing to any kind of progressive press. You will always have need for a single stage press. Redding and RCBS are good sources of all kinds of presses. RCBS Rockchucker Supreme for a single stage and Redding T7 for a turret press are basically the gold standard for press types.
Dies - I like Redding Dies, and I would get the carbide expander ball upgrade for bottle neck rifle cases. Dillon makes carbide rifle sizer dies, but you still need to use case lube and make sure you lube the inside of the case neck, too. I would just stick with regular dies for rifle cartridges. Dillon makes die sets specifically for their press so to speak, meaning that it does not come with a case mouth belling die; Redding makes a set of dies for progressive presses, too. I like Forster competition seaters, and they can be had as an individual item. Dies are pretty much threaded universally, except for Lyman 310 dies, and Dillon dies for the Square Deal N. Accuracy nuts will use hand dies, and they require an arbor press be used.
Shell holders (if the die set doesn't have them like Lee) or the appropriate shell plate for the progressive press. Remember that many shell holders work for more then one cartridge. I would do some home work, especially if you get a Dillon. Some cartridge conversions might only require you to get powder funnel for the new cartridge.
A tumbler will be a good investment, as clean cases will not harm you dies. There are vibratory and rotary tumblers out there. I like corn cob media treated with some Iosso case polish. You can get walnut in bulk at Petco or Pet Smart. Bulk corn cob grit is a great way to reduce the cost of commercially supplied media, because you pay through the nose for the treated media from other vendors.
MTM makes great loading block tray that handles most cartridges.
Case Lube is great for both conventional dies, and to treat your brass used in a progressive press even with carbide dies. That extra lubricity makes the cycling of the press a tad slicker! Dillon spray lube works well for shake and bake application. I like Imperial Die Wax for rifle cartridges when FL sizing.
Case Neck Brush to clean bottleneck rifle cases
Dial Calipers
Case Trimmer (Lee works, but Possum Hollow is better, Wilson makes the best hand powered Lathe trimmer, and Giraud is the best powered Trimmer)
Deburring/Chamfering Tool
Primer Pocket Cleaner and uniformer
Primer Flip Tray is needed for loading pick up tubes for some primer systems like the Dillon.
Priming Tool (I like the RCBS (now even better with universal shell holder, but Sinclair makes the best)
Powder Scale - remember that is always better to have a mechanical scale as a back up to any electronic scale.
Powder Funnel kit with drop tubes especially if you intend to use powders like Varget.
Powder Trickler (used to tweak powder charges )
Powder Measure (nice for faster powder charges it does require a bit of learning curve to get consistent powder charges sort of rhythm thing) standard with progressive presses, but the RCBS Uniflow is nice! Redding makes a better one, and Harrell is the gold standard!
Hammer Type Bullet Puller (for taking down the boo boo's)
Ammo boxes and labels
A notebook for recording your results! Saves covering the same ground twice!
A chronograph is great when working up loads, but is more a luxury in the beginning.
DaveInFloweryBranchGA
Member
Read the sticky at the top of the page. It's pretty comprehensive and is orientated towards new shooters. Then figure out how much you think you'll be reloading and in what calibers. Then get yourself a manual or two and read. Finally, ask questions again when you're done some more research, so you can be better informed as to what you're buying. Last, make a purchase decision.
Regards,
Dave
Regards,
Dave
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