reloads for .40 S&W Glock 23

[plunkettphoto]

I have only loaded .45 and .44 cartridges for "Cowboy Action Shooting" and wish to start reloading for my .40 S&W Glock 23 for target/practice - not carry ammo.

I read in the Modern Reloading - Second Edition the following statement in the .40 section: "Do not use reloads in Glock or similar guns with chambers that do not fully support the cartridge due to the intrusion of the feed ramp."

What does this imply and how do I know what reloads to use?

I would also very much appreciate any advice on specific loads for the 50' to 75' practice range.

thanks
Bill

 

[bocefus78]

As one who has fired thousands and thousands of reloads from a glock 23, I'll say this:

It means a lawyer wrote it. Some avoid lead as per glocks recommendation due to the rifling type, but feel free to load for your glock. The lead vs no lead is another debate.

 

[david bachelder]

I've owned a Glock 23 since 1999. It's been fed a steady diet of reloads since it was new. I've never had a problem.

For the record I agree with bocefus78 100%.
The Glock manual will tell you not to use hand loads because it will void the warranty.

My go to load for my S&W .40 is Berrys 165 grain plated FN bullets over 5.3 grains HP-38 or Win 231. This is a published load (Hodgdons).

 

[SwaneeSR]

reloads for .40 S&W Glock 23

I reload for my Glock 23 using Xtreme plated bullets. I have the factory barrel installed and I have had no issues. I am not loading hot loads.

Xtreme 180gr RN concave base, hard plate
700X powder 4.5gr

The 165's shoot fine too.

 

[plunkettphoto]

Thanks to all you guys for the responses and for bullet recommendations. My standard powder is Win231.

thanks again,
Bill

 

[Rule3]

No, what the original intent was and not just Glock, Powder companies will say the same thing,

Do not use reloads in Glock or similar guns with chambers that do not fully support the cartridge due to the intrusion of the feed ramp."

The older Glocks did not have a fully supported chamber so the case head could or would balloon out with heavy loads AKA Glocked Brass. It was most common on the 40 SW, if you Google it you will find pictures and how the barrels were different, The lead thing has to to with the different rifling. Some say really hard lead will not lead Glocks as the Hexagon rifling does not have sharp lands and grooves like regular rifling does.

Factory ammo is actually made for a one time use, when 40 SW was loaded over and over the brass would get weak in that area and bad things happened, It's not Lawyer BS, it is companies protecting themselves with good reason,

If you do not shoot hot loads and check your brass you should be fine,

The Browning HP in 40 SW does the same thing.

Heck My SW MP Shield in 9mm Will bulge +P ammo brass and it is fully supported it is just loose. That is why Glocks always feed well even when dirty.

The lead no lead is a ongoing debate, get coated bullets and no worries.

 

[LiveLife]

wish to start reloading for my .40 S&W Glock 23 for target/practice - not carry ammo.

I read in the Modern Reloading ... following statement in the .40 section: "Do not use reloads in Glock

Guess what factory Team Glock shooters and countless Glock match shooters shoot in their Glocks week after week?

Reloads.

powder is Win231

I usually recommend W231/HP-38 to new reloaders to 40S&W as it is a flexible powder that can be loaded lower for 9mm like recoil yet still produce accuracy at lower chamber pressures to guard against overly bulging/thinning of case wall.

With 180 gr bullets, start-to-mid range load data will produce 9mm like mild recoil target loads that are still accurate and reliably cycle the slide and extract/eject spent cases.

For greater accuracy, consider loading longer than SAAMI max of 1.135" OAL/COL. With most TCFP nose profile bullets, around 1.142" will work with Glock barrels and RMR HM RNFP will work with even longer 1.155" - http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=9639622#post9639622

 

[rg1]

Not a match or target shooter but I like 165 FMJ-FP's in my G23 and also my Beretta CX4 Storm carbine. My favorite powder is Winchester Super Field WSF and I load only to around 1050 fps. Shoots very well without excess recoil. I also use Unique powder, my 2nd choice. Having just started loading 40 S&W only a year or so ago and buying once fired brass, I do recommend highly the Redding GR-X push through sizing die. The once fired cases having been fired in multiple different guns need sizing through a push thru die. Some cases are just expanded more than others and regular sizing dies don't size quite far enough down the case plus the 40 case is practically a straight walled case with only about one thousandths taper. My brass fired in my G23 does not over expand the cases or leave bulges. Watch range pickup or purchased brass for "guppy belly" swelling from unsupported chambers or overpressure. I run all cases through the Redding Carbide GR-X sizer the size and reload as usual. Inspect all 40 S&W cases closely.

 

[ants]

Modern Reloading was written just after the turn of the century.

A decade prior to that copyright date, Glock had a funny way of cutting the integral ramp a little deep on their early early production 40 S&W guns. That's what is meant by 'not fully supported chamber'.

[On some of them, residual chamber pressure could bulge a portion of the case body just above the case head. This occurred with factory ammo as well as reloads. It did not seem occur often (or at all) on their other 9mm and 45acp pistols, only the 40S&W chambered pistols seemed to be plagued with the bulge problem.]

New Glock pistols in 40S&W (during the 1990's, I don't have the exact date) stopped that by cutting the feed ramp for full support. If you have a very early Glock 40 caliber pistol you might want to pay attention, but it is generally an old phenomenon.

If you don't see a bulge in the brass, you don't need a pass-through die to correct it. It is generally highly visible to the naked eye. But don't expect to see it much, these days it is disappearing fast.

 

[Robert101]

I don't reload hot so I have not found any of the bulged brass issues that appear on the internet regarding the 40 W&W. If I need to hit max load data on a consistent basis, then I really should look at a different cartridge. This is why I have 22LR, 380, 38, 40 S&W, 45 ACP, 10MM, and 44 magnum. I don't try to make a 10MM into a 44 Mag. Keep it simple and follow the published data.

 

[Rule3]

You will find that ANY gun manufacturer will void the warranty if reloads are used, it's not just Glock.

Why should they warranty a gun that Bubba blew up with to much Titegroup?

 

[ants]

Bill...

[I checked out the gallery at William Plunkett Photography. Holy crap, you're good!!! We could learn a lot about color and composition in that gallery. I bet it takes tremendous patience. You might attribute to luck, but patience and experience tend to 'make your luck' for you. Good work.]


Good powders for 40 S&W tend to center around AA #5 and HS-6. Since the cartridge was originally designed for higher pressures, many guns don't seem to respond to softie softie powderpuff loads. But also doesn't require max load to shoot straight. Mid range works for most of us.

Each pistol is different, but my G22, G27, and Beretta 96 don't seem to like powders at the fast end. It may be worth a try for your G23. Keep open minded to any powder between Bullseye and Blue Dot on the burn rate chart. That's a lot to choose from. Mine work best around the Power Pistol zone.

My guns like 155 to 170 grain. Competitors often choose 180 because they can get the recoil right for quick second shots. It works. For your target and practice you can use any weight or profile. Just make sure it fits the magazine when you select your OAL. See OAL note at the end below.

Glock still warns against lead bullets in their polygonal barrels (they say excessive lead fouling can occur, but not always). Many of us don't find it a problem but you might as well heed the warning and stick with plated and jacketed.

Standard primers work. Magnum primers can scatter the data when employed on mid-range loads, but if your powder is particularly hard to ignite you might try magnum primers. Just don't be surprised if you find no advantage.

If nothing else: Any jacketed 150 or 155 grain bullet (round nose or flat point or hollow point), and work up to mid-range in that bullet manufacturer's data for AA5 or HS6 or True Blue or Unique. That gives you 4 powder companies to choose from and lots of bullet choices. Just be sure to heed the OAL in that data, it's always OK to load longer. 40s&w has a funny habit of increasing pressure dramatically when the OAL is shorter than the data lists. Just load longer than the data and you'll be fine. I was working with QuickLoad once, a 1/10 inch bullet setback sent pressure close to the 60,000 psi range, wow. Not sure what would happen in real life, but it's a fair warning to all of us.

Your cowboy loads use a roll crimp, 40S&W uses a taper crimp. Typically, all semi auto pistol use a taper crimp when the cartridge headspaces on the case mouth. How much crimp on your 40? Measure a factory round and do that. If you don't have a factory round at home, I've even taken a caliper to the store and measured a round out of a factory box then put it back. No harm no foul.

 

[MontanaJack]

I have loaded and shot 165gr plater RNFP over CFE Pistol out of my 23 with great sucess... didnt do well with published min load, but had great results with mid range.