Rem 788 bolt handle broke off

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fatelk

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I have here an old Remington model 788 in .223, that someone broke the bolt handle off of. I was visiting a friend and his son show me the rifle, said his uncle broke the bolt handle off because the bolt wouldn't close. The handle itself is missing, long gone. He must have used a hammer or something.:banghead:

With the spring out, the bolt closes just fine, so I don't think there's anything else really wrong, but I would be real hesitant to just have someone weld another bolt handle on. Is this something a good welder could do? Would it be safe, since the locking lugs are so close? If so, where could one get a new bolt handle?

I told him I thought it would be best to just sell it for parts, but he thinks he should just weld a chunk of rebar on it and call it good.:what:

Any ideas?
 

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Dude, I'm no expert but I think a call to Numrich's for a whole new bolt would be in order. I would not want to use that bolt in my gun even if it could be repaired. I would have the chamber and barrel checked as well.
 
There is a site devoted to essentially debunking the 788 to those of us who think it a fine rifle.


They say:

Unlike the Remington 700 bolt, which is high-temperature brazed along the bolt body and very sturdy, the bolt handle of the 788 is low-temperature brazed directly to the side of the bolt body. As a result it can be broken off with sufficient force in trying to extract a stuck case. However, if the bolt body is retained, a new bolt handle can be MIG or TIG welded on by any competant gunsmith. (Don't let an eager beaver with an arc welder or torch ruin your irreplacable bolt; it will anneal the rear lugs).

And repeated elsewhere on that site:

Brazed-on straight, hollowed (ugly) bolt handle tends to break off. Can be fixed by a real gunsmith with proper heat sinks, heat control paste and a MIG or TIG welder. Don't let an animal with an arc welder ruin your bolt.
 
We have silver brazed these for years but i think tig-welding would be the way to go on this one.
It looks like the rear of the bolt is broken off and would need some repair with that.
Yes we have heat-sinks and use the heat paste and we have one of the best welders in the state working here.
I have no idea on price but keeping the gun working is worth looking into it.
 
788s are fine, accurate rifles. I have a few in several different calibers. Most bolt handles get broken off when someone shoots a hot reload and uses an object to hammer the bolt handle open. You can occasionally find a bolt on gunbroker.com, but they are pricey.
 
Thanks, everyone. I did check Numrich: $175 for a bolt.
Considering that the stock has little or no finish left and the barrel has some pitting, I don't think it would be worth it.

It does sound like this is a weakness with this design, and can be repaired. I have a friend who has a very nice welder. I'll talk to him about it. I did have one gunsmith tell me forget it, sell it for parts. I sure wouldn't have anyone mess with it unless they really know what they are doing.

I usually like to help people with stuff like this, but I think this time I'll just give the rifle back to him with the info. I just found out last week that I'll be laid off in three months (along with 1400 others) unless I transfer out of state. This is by far the best job I've ever had, but my wife and I both absolutely do not want to move. I'm in a major dilema, and don't really have the time or interest in trying to get it fixed for him.

Experienced welders: with the proper welder and heat sink, the lugs will be undamaged and the gun safe to fire, I assume?
 
yah, look back and look at simmons, they are a TOP notch gun repair facility that used to do factory warrantee work for all the big brands, tell your friend that they would be the ones to talk to.

A new bolt is not necessarily work out of the box, as they may be headspace and lug lapping to consider to get it right...
 
I don't know about a "design weakness." If a guy is big enough, is mad enough, and has a big enough hammer, he can break darned near anything.

I suspect the reason the bolt wouldn't close is that someone does reloading with both feet and operates his guns the same way.

One approach might be to call Remington. They have a pretty good reputation for repairing even old products at low or no cost if parts are still available.

Jim
 
I have even seen one 700 bolt handle peel off while trying to beat it open after a blown case episide.

But that was many years ago. Maybe they use better silver-solder now.

rcmodel
 
Never, never try to beat a stuck case out using the bolt handle. If the handle will lift but not pull back and extract, spray a little Kroil down the muzzle and let sit for a few minutes then drop a wooden dowel down muzzle and see if you can tap it out. If not, spray a lot of kroil down barrel and let sit overnight and try the dowel again, or better yet take it to a gunsmith.
 
In a very memorable incident (My buddy Sparky never lets me forget it), I snapped the bolt handle off a 788 at a gun show. Bolt lifted fine, but was a little sticky going to the rear. I gave a bit of a tug, the bolt slammed back to the stop, and I had the handle in my hand. A smith silver-soldered it back, and the rifle is still in service with a friend of Sparky's.
 
Never, never try to beat a stuck case out using the bolt handle.
Never, never isn't always an option.

The 700 I mentioned had a blown case head, and the bolt was welded in the receiver with molten brass.

We finally got it apart, but only by removing the barrel from the action.
Even then, the remains of the case were still almost welded into the bolt face.

rcmodel
 
If a guy is big enough, is mad enough, and has a big enough hammer, he can break darned near anything.

Ain't that the truth. In my younger days I was like, get me a bigger hammer. It cost me a few times.
 
Does anyone know of a GOOD gunsmith who can fix the 788 bolt? I have one that just lost its handle. No hot loads....I never even fired it. I was checking my reloading die set up. The bolt was a little sticky so I gave a tug on the handle and off she popped. A wooden dowel down the barrel and a couple of light taps with a small leather mallet opened the bolt.

The silver solder covered one and a half of the 4 sides. 2 1/2 sides were clean. I'm wondering how the bolt stayed intact all these years.

Monday I will call Remington to see if they can repair it but a gunsmith might be a good option as well.
 
Good smith

See post number 5 above. None better for this little issue than those guys. Or if the Prescott area is close enough to you to drive, there is at least one guy down there that is a master with silver solder who might be coaxed into doing it.
 
Anyone know where a replacement bolt handle can be purchased, even something that could be machined to fit, then welded?

I ended up buying the rifle in the original post, for parts, but don't want to put much money into it, as I have now been out of work for over three months and just can't afford to pay someone else a couple hundred dollars to have it done.

As it is, it's a someday project in the corner of the closet.
 
I've seen some fine benchrest guns built on 788 actions.

Including one chambered for (get this!) .30-30 Winchester.

There are plenty of good 'smiths out there who can repair that or fit a replacement bolt to that 788, Fatelk. Have faith!
 
Just FWIW, Remington never used silver solder on the Model 700 (and 721/722) bolt handles; they are copper induction brazed and I have never seen one come off. I don't say it can't happen, but every one is checked (that little punch mark is their test mark).

When the 721/722 first came out and the yahoos found the handle was not part of the bolt, they spread rumors that handles were coming off by the thousands. Another company, which shall be nameless but whose initials were Winchester, happily helped by advertising that THEIR bolt handles didn't come off. So Remington did a lot of brutal tests with large hammers and hydraulic presses and found that the bolt body usually distorted before the bolt handle came off.

Jim
 
i have a 788 in .308 that the handle is still attached to......would it be a good idea to go ahead and have teh bolt handle tig welded on before i have a similar problem?
 
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