Rem-oil vs other lubricants

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DavidB2

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Just curious about how Rem-oil compares to other lubricants? Specifically outers gun oil, break free, liquid wrench, or 3 in 1 oil. I want a product that lubricates, prevents rust and cleans without gumming up. Thanks for feedback.
 
I have used Browning gun oil and Rem-oil. Rem is easier to use and contains a teflon additive.
I would avoid using WD-40 because I find that it becomes sticky and attracts dust/dirt. I have also read (somewhere) that WD-40 can attract moisture..
 
I would avoid using WD-40 because I find that it becomes sticky and attracts dust/dirt. I have also read (somewhere) that WD-40 can attract moisture..
Click to expand...
I have used WD-40 for longer than many if not most posters on THR have been alive. It does not do any of those things. I would,however,choose Rem-oil as a lube over WD-40. There are many light oils that will do a good job(ATF for one).
 
Jimmyray: I found THIS on the internet in a Home Improvement blog..
Just Sayin:uhoh:
Quote: "1.Firearms-you should never use WD-40 to clean or maintain firearms. It's hygroscopic and will attract moisture to the firearm, which will result in rust...."
 
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"May cause gumming on internal components and inside receivers. Long-term use on gunmetals has been thought to limit the effectiveness of certain bluing solutions."

Brownells said it...



I only use Rem Oil, or Eezox. Of these, if I have Rem Oil on hand, I use that. I have used other "gun oil" products, and none of them compare at all to Rem Oil.

For what it's worth, I don't use WD-40 on anything. I haven't found it as useful as most people think... It definitely has its strengths, but I have other stuff that works just as well (or better) for those things. (not on firearms). Also, not saying that it doesn't work if that is all you have available, but if I have something else available, I would not use WD-40.
 
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For several decades I used RemOil exclusively on several safe-queens. Guns would be wiped down and barrel swabbed every 3 years or so, then back in the safe. None of these firearms shown any rust at all.

I'm guessing most of the other oils in general use would have done the same job, which is to keep moist air from contact with the steel.
 
I'm pretty old school - Rem Oil to clean & quick lube and Hoppe's #9 Gun Oil for lube. Been working for twenty something years why change now. :)
 
I put motor oil on with a tooth brush and then cover with a sheet [to reduce air flow] on large mass cast iron objects; lathe, mill, table saw, jointer, band saw, and maybe a drill press.
The vapor pressure of motor is high, and I have to replace it every couple months in the wet winter around here, or I wind up sanding off rust. I don't sand off rust on ground surfaces like the mill table. I have to keep them heated and oiled.
Tools in a room a couple degrees above outside ambient may be ok with out protestant for 50 years if the tools are low mass.
The problem is rising temperatures at 100% humidity makes the outside of the large machine condense water like an ice water drinking glass. The big machines take too long to warm up, and are colder than the moist air.
For guns indoors in this climate, they never rust unless they get wet or are touching concrete.
I got a case of BreakFree CLP before the ~2002 formula change, and I put that on guns while cleaning them after I buy the guns.
I had 3 rifles, I was breaking in for hunting in the desert in October, get hit with a sand storm when they were on the ground on bipods.
I am now looking for some dry lubricants.
This forum has a lot of info and some really smart posts
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/
But the gun sub forum does not have the kind of talent that the other parts of the forum throw at motor oil for vehicles.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=postlist&Board=38&page=1
Saying, "Tell me about lubricants and corrosion protection." is about like saying, "Tell my about gunsmithing."
The info just goes deeper and deeper.

I am now having a problem with mold spots on gun stocks, especially old military Walnut and old plastic on FALs.
 
Almost every lubricating oil on the market is up to that task. There's a lot to be said for plain old automatic transmission fluid as a general purpose lubricant. Power steering fluid is an equally good product--in fact most power steering fluids are just ATF without the red dye.
 
i use rem oil as a case lube for resizing and wd-40 as a rust preventative.

murf
 
When I got my first AR I made up a 50:50 mix of 10W-30 and ATF. I've been pretty impressed with it thus far, and have been using for all my guns. It sure seems to stick around better than the thin "gun" oil. Honestly, I don't buy into the argument that generic "gun" oils are specially formulated for use in guns. I think motor oil works just as well, and its a HECK of a lot cheaper.
 
I use RemOil, but not for lubing internal or moving parts. I use Break Free CLP for lubing rails on semis as well as internals for revolvers.

I use RemOil only as a surface treatment to prevent rust. Internals get CLP and externals get RemOil. I coat all of my safe queens with RemOil before putting them back in the safe.
 
i have used so many different things for oil i could never remember tham all in an hour. and i am certainly not going to try that hard to reply to this. almost everything i have used has worked well as a lubricant. the thicker wet oils do attract dust/dirt. but then so does chain oil, which i would not use on a firearm, with the possible exception of for a long term rust preventative. 3 in 1 oil is excellent, along with rem oil, super lube, atf, Mobil 1 0w20, and Castrol GTX 5w30.in the right places, stp straigh up works well, though i would not use it in cold weather or in dusty conditions. firearms do not require a super specific lubricant to function well. it needs to flow well in cold damp conditions, and it needs to prevent rust within a normal humidity range. if you live in Daytona Beech, Florida, you will need a different rust solution that someone who lives in Phoenix AZ. or Nome Alaska. the worst case for firearm lube would be a mini gun. that will truly test a firearm lubricant. so much heat, operating at such high speed, needing to operate in the arctic of the desert. if you really want a top grade firearm lube, whatever the military uses on that would be it. for most of us though, we do not need anything even close to that. our civilian guns, in 50 years of service, will never be punished 1/100th as bad as a mini gun will be in one minute of operation.
 
I've been using Dri-Slide for many many years. It's a dry lube...goes on wet and then dries in place. It's really thin when it goes on so it gets into all of those tight places. For a new finish reassembly, I mix it 50/50 with Marvel Mystery oil. For "used" guns, I use it straight but mix in a tiny amount of regular oil for slide rails.

Dri-Slide is really messy when it's wet and will stain clothes, hands, etc. Once dry, it stays in place and won't make a mess. Since it's a dry lube, it won't attract dust either. Keep yer powder dry, Mac.
Tuff-Gun Finishes. The Name Says It All.
Mac's Shootin' Irons
http://www.shootiniron.com
 
I use ballistol for preventive stuff and lube every now and then. On pistols I use lithium or wheel bearing grease. I spray my tools with wd every now and then and it keeps em rust free. I think the lube and rust war will always go on, I think using any oil or grease is probably sufficient, lot better than not using anything
 
Most oils used exclusively by themselves do a decent job. It is when you mix certain brands together that causes sludge and varnish to form. An example would be WD-40 and Tri-flow, When first applied it seems to be very slick and smooth. However after it sits for several hours it coagulates and if left unattended for days it forms a varnish on several types of steel. This is my observations being a machine technician for the past 30+ years. I can tell you that all lubricants work, however certain ones will have a reaction when mixed with other lubes. Just get what ever brand X you like and stick to it. If you run out of brand X and use brand y, degrease the firearm first before applying the new brand. BTW, I've seen several firearms that have had nothing but WD-40 on them for over 40 years and they are spotless.
 
rem oil/hoppe's 9

want to protect Pietta 1858 and 1849 pocket.pocket is all most bare metal.Do i wipe them down with a dustless rag or?

thanks
mike
 
Get a Rig-Rag & a little tube of RIG to replenish it when it starts to dry out.

http://www.brownells.com/gun-cleani...rsal-grease-applicator-prod31843.aspx?ttver=2

http://www.brownells.com/gun-cleani...g-universal-gun-grease-prod31842.aspx?ttver=2

I was tipped off to them in 1960 something by one of the guys who owned half the S&W collection pictured in the Standard Catalog Of S&W's.
The finest gun collections in the country use it.

Dustless rags are best used for dusting furniture & TV screens, not protecting guns.

rc
 
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