Remington Model 10

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SigArms226

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Greetings - one of the moderators suggested I drop by this section with my following question. Any help would be appreciated! i have attached a couple of the f/u notes to my original post also. thank you!
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Is there anyone out there with information on these old guns made 1908-1929? I have the owners manual, and the weapon just seems very cleverly designed, but also very hard to figure out how everything goes together. any assistance would be greatly appreciated! Specifically, information on parts schematics, gunsmithing, take-down/up tips & instructions...It seems very difficult to take apart, and near impossible to put back together! Gun's in good shape- prob 80-90%.

TIA!



Dave McCracken
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Registered: Dec 2002
Location: MD.
Posts: 1455
The mavens on Harley's Forum will have more input. It's been decades since I've seen one in the field. Well made, great machining, but as complicated as Sicilian politics.

Note that some, maybe all, were chambered for 2 9/16" shells. Modern ammo is neither safe nor fun to use until a good smith has gone over it.



July 26th, 2003 12:46 AM



Ack! I put 5-6 light 12 ga. modern shells thru it before takedown. How Can I tell if it takes the smaller shells? I sure won't shoot it again until I get this cleared up.

I did have my local gun shop and gunsmith look it over as they put a new butt plate on it, they said I was good to go, and did not mention this!

Will check out Harley's section!
 
JM-

Thanks so much! I sent you a separate note of thanks via email. This meant a lot.

Sig
 
I may be thinking of the wrong gun, but IIRC those guns have a couple of parts that wear out rapidly, mainly the little "flipper" shell carrier. I replaced lots of them while parts were still available, but AFAIK there are no more. I may be wrong, but I think the gun is a Pedersen design and he didn't do anything simple. Of course you have to feel for him, as he must have always found out that his latest and greatest idea had been patented by John Browning!

I would not use one of those as a practical gun, though there is some collector interest. The guns are just too old and fragile and a broken part is going to mean a useless gun.

You can make a chamber cast (wax or modelling clay should do) to see if the gun is made for 2 3/4 or 2 9/16 shells. (The forcing cone must allow room for the full opening of the shell mouth; if the mouth is in the forcing cone, the pressure will be higher than normal.)

Jim
 
Yeah, I lived next door to the town repair gunsmith in the '70s and he hated to see a Remington 10 or 29 coming. However, he preferred the Model 31 to all other pumps, Winchester M 12 specifically included.
 
Thanks very much for the comments. Some items of info I have picked up now: The gun is a pederson design, you are thinking of the correct model.

The problem I was having in putting it back together was due to a couple of missing mag screws; picked those up from numrich this past week. Now I just need a front sight and the gun will be complete.

The larger shell fired thru the gun fine, could you provide any more info on the risks, damage that could be caused if the gun can only use the 2 9/16?

Either way, this gun will not be something that gets used very often at all, maybe 1-2x per year at most.
 
A Remington 10 with a serial number of 89XXX has a 2 3/4" chamber. This applies to this gun, it is not the change over number. Also, this may not be the original barrel, and the chamber may have been reamed. The forcing cone is abrupt enough that you can measure it with a ruler. Two different barrels are the width of the rim short of 2 3/4" and the other barrel, on my Dad's, serial 190XXX, is original. He got it for his 14th birthday in 1924.

If you fire a shell that's too long for the chamber, the crimp unfolds into the forcing cone and the wads are forced through a smaller hole than they're designed for. That raises pressure above safe limits. Understand that a 3" shell fits in a 2 3/4" chamber, as it's short enough when it's crimped. Everything's fine until you pull the trigger. The length of a shell is measured when it's uncrimped before it's loaded or after it's fired, not when it's loaded and crimped.

I put enough Magnums through Dad's gun in my younger days to prove that the 10 is strong enough for any modern loads, but they do have a reputation for breaking. It's time to take it out for it's annual box of shells on clays, just to keep it from getting lonely.

Bye
Jack
 
Mine is 69XXX serial number, may I assume that it is chambered for the 2 9/16 shell? If so, an occasional modern 2 3/4 would not hurt it?

I think this gun is fairly original, not having many rounds shot thru it since my grandfather's father or grandfather purchased it in the 1910s, or 1920s.

I am starting to find this gun very interesting!
 
I don't know if it has a short chamber. All I know is that the 89XXX gun has a barrel with a 2 3/4" chamber, but I don't know if it came that way. The changeover to the 2 3/4" chamber may have come before serial #69XXX. It's easy to measure to the abrupt forcing cone. I can not recommend firing a 2 2/4" shell in a 2 9/16" chamber. In other words, don't do it.

Dad's 190XXX gun was made in 1922, according to Remington. So I'd guess that yours is pre WW I.

Give Remington a holler. They can tell you when it was made and maybe even the chamber size.
http://remington.custhelp.com/cgi-bin/remington.cfg/php/enduser/home.php

Bye
Jack
 
Thanks! I just dropped Rem a note on the age of the gun. Couple addl simpleton questions for you:

Can you still buy 2 9/16 shells anywhere?
and
What does the abrupt forcing cone look like?
 
OK, take the barrel off and look in the chamber. You'll see where the chamber steps down from about 0.800" to 0.729" approximatey, at the end of the chamber. This bevel is about 1/4" - 3/8" long. The bevel is the forcing cone. Measure to where the bevel starts.

If you don't know how to take the barrel off, I'll explain it tomorrow. It takes a LOT longer to tell you how to do, than it takes to do it.

Bye
Jack
 
Ok - will do it. I do know how to take the barrel off, learned that amazingly difficult process last week. You are right, I don't know how I would even begin to explain it!
 
ok im trying to take an orginal that my grandpa gave me apart, i figured out the barrel, but i cant get the bolt and whatnot out, does anyone have some instructions on that
 
Rem 10

I have takedown instructions and just scanned the six pages, so if you want them, email me today or tonite and I'll send them to you. The print is small, so you'll have to enlarge the pages.
I'll be in western NC June 29-July5 with no email.
 
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I had been looking through my materials also since your post, and found a copy of the original owners manual for this gun, along with several pages from an old gunsmithing manual - these I found particularly helpful in taking this gun down. If you would like them also, just drop me a note and I can email you a file with them.
 
Rem Model 10 I have the owners manual but would like pages from gunsmithing manual that SigArms226 has. Mine is freezing up at time as you pull the trigger. Locks up - release button sticks at the same time. I am hoping you will help.Ken
 
Very interesting and informative thread here!!

I have one of these ole Rem's sitting here beside me. It's in IMHO condition good, original, and functions 100%. S/N 206xx, barrel and receiver match. Full choke, "turkey gun" configuration. I see no stamps indicating chamber size.

It has a lotta miles on it, and has a dented magazine tube which only allows 3 rounds into the tube. A local gunsmith thinks that he can solve that issue. I have shot 2 3/4" shotshells through it several times, and noticed no problems (is the good Lord watching out for me?).

This shotgun was given to me as a Christmas present by a son-in-law who gives me this story: It was owned by a late, great uncle for many years, then was given to him by an aunt, out of a closet where it had lived for many years. They are of French Canadian descent. SOL says that great-uncle once won another Model 10 in a turkey shoot with this shotgun. He gave me the weapon thinking that I'd want to "tinker and restore" it, but... I just gave it a cleaning, took it out and shot it, cleaned and lubed it again, and it sits ready for use.

I'd also really like to receive any owners and gunsmith files that anyone would like to send to: [email protected]

Please indicate "Remington 10 shotgun manual" in the "subject" line, to aid me in retrieving the info from AOL's spam filter file!!

I REALLY need to measure that chamber!!

Cheers, FNR...

P.S. It sits near an old Springfield 5100 SxS 20 gauge... and I don't particularly use shotguns much!!
 
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Mine was my grandfather's. When grandma bought him a semiauto Winchester when I was a squirt, I used to beg him to take the old 5100 hunting, I liked it better. Sometimes, he would.

That shotgun is my prized possession from his estate.

Cheers, FNR...
 
Model 10 shell size

I have been tinkering with an old Model 10 that my father found in a decrepit farmhouse when they were tearing it down. It had been nailed up into a wall. I remember when that happened back in ~1977. I didnt see the gun again until I was cleaning out my fathers house after his death in 2003. And there it was, partly dismantled in the back of a closet. This thing was ROUGH. Completely covered in rust with a broken stock that somebody had taped back together. Over the last few years I spliced a hunk of wood to the remains of the stock (an antique desk leg -- wanted to use wood the same age) and removed the bulk of the rust. Taking the barrel off eluded me for many months. I finally figured it out the day before Remington mailed me the owners manual. The thing is a Rubiks cube!

Anyway, I was actually trying to find the barrel removal procedure when I googled up this site. I want to thank you guys for alerting me about the potential cartridge size issue.

To contribute in turn, my serial number is 79XXX and the barrel serial number (full choke) matches. The distance to the force cone is 2 3/4 best I can tell (actually looks to be 2 11/16 but I havent cleaned the inside of the barrel yet). Could it be possible that full choke goose guns took one size cartridge and the trap guns took the 2 9/16?

Any other suggestions for me before I shoot a gun that most likely hasnt been shot in about 50 yrs? It has shined up amazingly well and all the actions are working pretty smoothly after soaking in carb cleaner, WD40 and some dremel wire wheel attention.
 
I would like to replace the buttstock on my 10, but Im not having any luck finding any. Does anyone have any tips on where one is?"
 
Hi Guys,
I'm new here (first post) and also new to shotguns. I just got a Rem Model 10 from my Fathers estate that once belonged to my Grandfather. It looks in pretty good condition and came with 2 3/4 shells, serial is in the #22xxxx range. If any of you guys can, I can use all the info you can send me as all I got was the shotgun and several boxes of shells. TIA

Greg L.
 
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