Just recieved .223 Rem. What scope rings do you use for 50MM scope. Do you need to raise scope up for better line of sight? One more question- has anybody played with the triggers on these things? Has a mile of rough creep in it. Have not taken down to see what it is but feels dry and way to much seer travel. Gun looks like it should be a good one-I have a lot to learn about this type of rifle. Thanks for the help: Jerry
Remington R-15 Help:
- Thread starter gunsmith1
- Start date
- Status
Welcome to the AR world. Remington tries to church it up a little and call it an R-15, but that trigger doesn't lie.
Fortunately, there are MANY aftermarket options that will replace your trigger assembly and be much better. It is just a matter of how much you want to spend.
I don't recall exactly, but I think that extra high rings are what you will need. Any gun shop should have an assortment for you to dry fit.
Fortunately, there are MANY aftermarket options that will replace your trigger assembly and be much better. It is just a matter of how much you want to spend.
I don't recall exactly, but I think that extra high rings are what you will need. Any gun shop should have an assortment for you to dry fit.
TurtlePhish
Member
Trigger jobs on stock AR triggers are time consuming and honestly you don't get very much for the effort. Just get a Timney or Geissele or something.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Put some gunslick grease on the trigger sear & hammer hooks and shoot it a while.
You might be surprised.
I doubt you will need X-high rings, even with a 50mm scope.
2.5" over the bore line is where it needs to be to see through it with your cheek on the stock.
rc
You might be surprised.
I doubt you will need X-high rings, even with a 50mm scope.
2.5" over the bore line is where it needs to be to see through it with your cheek on the stock.
rc
My R-15 also required a new trigger, I went with a 3lb Timney for a huge improvement. Some have been lucky, you and I not so much.
You want to duplicate the height of the iron sights on the AR platform for your scope, which is 1.4" above the rail. Many applications call for a forward offset also. Here is a great source of mount info.
http://www.maxicon.com/guns/optics/one_piece/ar15_onepiece_mounts.htm
You want to duplicate the height of the iron sights on the AR platform for your scope, which is 1.4" above the rail. Many applications call for a forward offset also. Here is a great source of mount info.
http://www.maxicon.com/guns/optics/one_piece/ar15_onepiece_mounts.htm
Ramone
Member
Give it a chance to break in. once it does, a 6 lbs or so pull is about as good as you get, but it's not a bad trigger with proper technique.
redbullitt
Member
I liked the one I shot; fwiw it shot plenty well. You are going to want high or extra high rings depending on the scope. My ar10 does ok with high rings and a 50mm scope... Some of the unimount things are nice, but a bit pricey.
Do you have a 2 stage trigger? I did not notice the trigger being bad on the one I played with. Not a bolt gun trigger, but it was plenty good.
Do you have a 2 stage trigger? I did not notice the trigger being bad on the one I played with. Not a bolt gun trigger, but it was plenty good.
I put a JP Enterprises Trigger, Hammer, and spring kit in my R-15, and it made a BIG difference.
I have a Nikon 4-12 50mm scope on the R-15 as well. The Wilson Combat Low Pro one piece base and rings worked out nicely. The height is perfect, and the mount is very durable.
I have a Nikon 4-12 50mm scope on the R-15 as well. The Wilson Combat Low Pro one piece base and rings worked out nicely. The height is perfect, and the mount is very durable.
I have the R-25 and my trigger feels like a two stage. It has a ton of creep and then about 4 lbs to break. Once I get past the creep it hits a "wall" and the break is nice. I havent figured out what I want to do with it. It doesnt affect my bench accuracy and I did OK hunting with it but you have to be mentally prepared to work thru the creep when you are in a hunting or defense situation. I have a 40mm objective and there is plenty of clearance on that end. I have tall rings and I barely clear the bolt handle on the other end.
The thing with standard AR triggers is they have no travel adjustment screw, something a lot of bolt gun makers went to decades ago because the public thinks it needs a slick light target trigger. In reality, it's just a feel good item - about dead last in priority to actually improve accuracy.
6 pound field triggers work fine with the travel adjusted correctly. It removes 80% of the creep - and 80% of the grit, too, because it simply doesn't reset back behind it where it has to scrape across it again.
Most of the $200+ triggers have those screws, they do have very nice crisp breaks from precise square polishing, and they are nearly impossible to record a specific MOA improvement. It's usually so small the natural inaccuracy of a factory barrel and shelf bought ammo covers it up. Correct handling, and handloaded ammo will do far more for the same money. A turret press reloading kit will get you ammo better than 1MOA, the trigger, not even that and the ammo is required to see it.
Spring kits for the standard AR reduce the hammer power, nature of the beast. Some are known to be too weak for military primers - forcing the economical shooter to start reloading so he can afford the softer civilian ones without paying $1 a round for shelf ammo.
After all, we're talking a combat weapon design, meant to keep soldiers from jacking it up and making work for the armorer. Drop in designs rework the geometry and compensate for things. They aren't cheap, tho, and on a $1 per .1 MOA improvement, rank pretty far down the list.
6 pound field triggers work fine with the travel adjusted correctly. It removes 80% of the creep - and 80% of the grit, too, because it simply doesn't reset back behind it where it has to scrape across it again.
Most of the $200+ triggers have those screws, they do have very nice crisp breaks from precise square polishing, and they are nearly impossible to record a specific MOA improvement. It's usually so small the natural inaccuracy of a factory barrel and shelf bought ammo covers it up. Correct handling, and handloaded ammo will do far more for the same money. A turret press reloading kit will get you ammo better than 1MOA, the trigger, not even that and the ammo is required to see it.
Spring kits for the standard AR reduce the hammer power, nature of the beast. Some are known to be too weak for military primers - forcing the economical shooter to start reloading so he can afford the softer civilian ones without paying $1 a round for shelf ammo.
After all, we're talking a combat weapon design, meant to keep soldiers from jacking it up and making work for the armorer. Drop in designs rework the geometry and compensate for things. They aren't cheap, tho, and on a $1 per .1 MOA improvement, rank pretty far down the list.
Sorry to go against the grain on several of the above posts, but i believe I shoot MUCH better with a clean breaking 3 lb. trigger. That's what all my rifles have, and see no advantage to throwing one oddball 6 pounder in the mix. I have no desire to add in a two stage either. I do not want to waste ammo to see how much better a fine trigger is from a rotten one.
I wish to have a familiar sear break whether I'm at the range, hunting, or self defense.
I wish to have a familiar sear break whether I'm at the range, hunting, or self defense.
ugaarguy
Member
- Joined
- Mar 19, 2006
- Messages
- 13,828
Glad to hear it's working well for you. When you combine even a decently made barrel with a free float fore end; and the AR's direct impingement gas system (no piston op rod moving around & messing with bbl harmonics) & precise bolt lockup you tend to get good results when shooting quality ammo. I look forward to reading about your results after you get the new trigger installed.
- Status