removal of bullet stuck in barrel

[Thirties]

It finally happened to me -- I stuck a bullet in my barrel. It is a Berry's plated HBWC .312" in a 7.62 Nagant revolver.

I think the round had no powder loaded and the bullet was propelled by the primer only. All the other shots I'd fired before this went thorough fine. I was using 2.7grains of W231 which is light, but not too light a load for this 83g plated HBWC

Would any of you light load revolver experts explain the best way to remove my bullet?

It is stuck forward of the forcing cone, and I was unable to budge it by pressing from the muzzle end with a small round wooden paintbrush handle. I was able to move it just a bit forward by pushing with the paintbrush handle from the cylinder end. But the frame of the revolver is in the way to get it out all the way pushing from the rear, even though I've removed the cylinder.

I haven't slept on my problem yet as it just happened this afternoon. But I was wondering if any of you could pass on your wisdom to me on this subject.

 

[Black Snowman]

I've done this with light lead .38 loads in my .357 Mag. I used the thickest cleaning rod that would fit with no tip on it. Worked ok pushing through the muzzle end.

 

[Thirties]

Would you ever tap it lightly, or do you just push it?

 

[Black Snowman]

Now that I think of it, after breaking the rod pushing on it I think I used a hammer. . . Ya, I'm pretty sure a hammer was involved. And a rag to keep the hammer from damaging the crown.

On mine the bullet was litterally half way down the barrel. It got harder as I backed it out and the bullet deformed.

 

[Tom C.]

Removing bullet

I carry an aluminum rod for that. It should fit the bore fairly closely, if possible. Then a hammer, or field expedient rock can do the trick.

 

[caseydog]

Had to do this twice , once with a 22 , once with a 38. Get some wood dowel rod thats almost as round as the bore , secure gun , small mallet , tap it out the back. Case

 

[J Miller]

I have read on another forum that you need to use a rod of brass or aluminum, or a wooden dowl just small enough to fit in the barrel.
And put the gun in the freezer. Supposedly the lead in the bullet will contract more than the steel in the barrel and make it easier to drive out of the barrel.
I haven't had the need to test this, knock on wood, so I'm just forwarding information I have read.
Hope it helps.

J

 

[444]

I have done this a NUMBER of times in both rifles and handguns (I like to play around with super light rifle loads). In fact I have loaded progressively smaller powder charges until I stuck a bullet to see just how far down I could go. If you are using a real light load, it is certainly possible to stick a bullet as the bore gets dirty. Especially in some of these milsurp guns with rough bores.
It is no big deal at all. Spray some WD40 down the bore behind the bullet and stand the gun up so the oil can soak down around the bullet. Get a dowel rod, insert though the muzzle end and tap the bullet out with a mallet. The bullet may just push out with a rod. I have tapped a bullet out using a stick and a rock and just kept on shooting. The WD40 isn't nessessary but in a bad case it might make things easier.

 

[Vern Humphrey]

Here's the trick -- remove the cylinder first. If you swing it out, it acts as a mass that will be affected by tapping the rod, and may throw the gun out of time.

 

[Jim K]

Removing the cylinder is a good idea if you are trying to drive the bullet back out of the bore, but I don't think you can swing out the cylinder of a Nagant.

BTW, I reamed one of those .32ACP Nagant cylinders so it takes .32 H&R Magnum. Accuracy is fair (i.e., no worse than original ammo) and the gun can now use .32 ACP, .32 S&W, .32 S&W Long, and .32 H&R Magnum.

Jim

 

[P95Carry]

It is useful to have a suitable length of hardwood dowel rod or - even better - brass rods .... real close to cal ...... and use these.

I prefer to have an ''assistant'' if possible ... that way with a revo .. they can hold the frame and cradle the cyl ... whilst you give short, sharp whacks to rod ...... bit by bit it will shift and as long as rod close to cal .. the bullet should not ''spread'' enough to matter.

If doing it on one's own then ... remove cyl is good idea and .. make sure butt is on something firm but soft enough also to avoid damage to grips etc.

 

[C.R.Sam]

Sometimes freezin the gun will aid in getting the stubborn ones out.

Sam

 

[Thirties]

Thanks, folks. I'm going to visit my local machine shop and have him turn some brass rods for my barrels.

"I don't think you can swing out the cylinder of a Nagant."

The Nagant's cylinder does not swing out, but removal and replacement is very easy, being a single action revolver.

 

[444]

Thirties no offense intended, but I think you are getting a little bit extreme here. Honestly, this is a job that should take two minutes. It happens and two minutes later you are putting rounds back down range. There is nothing complicated or difficult about it. There is no danger of damaging anything if you use wood.

Machine Shop ? Again, not trying to be a jerk, but this is like hiring an electrical engineer to change a lightbulb.

 

[Thirties]

It does sound like getting an electrical engineer to change a light bulb. This "machine shop" I'm going to is a very small one-person home town kind of place where the guy can turn things on a lathe for me (I don't have a lathe). The whole job may cost me some hand loaded ammo if I'm lucky.

I'll get him to do me one for .38spl, and one for my Nagant.

 

[ARperson]

Thirties no offense intended, but I think you are getting a little bit extreme here. Honestly, this is a job that should take two minutes. It happens and two minutes later you are putting rounds back down range. There is nothing complicated or difficult about it. There is no danger of damaging anything if you use wood.

Except the wooden dowel!


It would seem a bit much if this were the only time he would get a bullet stuck in a barrel.

Could be he's having some made up for any future use. Could be he's having a machinist make them so he can use brass so he can make them last longer. Wood does tend to wear out a little more quickly.

 

[Thirties]

"It would seem a bit much if this were the only time he would get a bullet stuck in a barrel.

Could be he's having some made up for any future use. Could be he's having a machinist make them so he can use brass so he can make them last longer. Wood does tend to wear out a little more quickly.'


Exactly right. The whole reason I reload revolvers it to make light loads for targets. Several loading books, in particular the NRA volume, recommend lightening the powder charge until you stick a bullet in the tube, and then increasing a bit.

I expect this to not be the last time I have a bullet jammed in there. The brass rods will last me and not swell, chip or break.

I admit this is not absolutely necessary, but otherwise I'd have to hunt for some rock maple or other hardwood and a different guy to turn it for me. And, after all, we like to spend some money on our beloved hobbies, right?

I mean the whole idea of shooting sports is totally unecessary if you are honest about it. Some things we just do for the sheer enjoyment of doing them.

Even reading and posting messages here is not really important in the greater scheme of things. But we carry on 'cause it amuses us. I am not ashamed to say so.

But please feel free to jump on me anyway. That's also part of the bargain here. Let's admit that as well.

 

[caseydog]

Hey , you can get brass ones cheap more power to ya , they can double as a range rod for checking out a revolvers timing and lockup. Case

 

[444]

Right, don't get me wrong, having the brass rod would be nice. I just wanted to make sure you realized that this was no big deal and could easily be fixed, and you don't need to pay anybody to fix it, etc................................ I see that is the case so maybe I oughta just stay out of it.

 

[Mikul]

Okay, I'll pass along my newly found bit of insanity.

Go to the hardware store and buy a 1/4" bolt at least an inch longer than your barrel. The less threads the better, but don't fret it. Then go buy some Plati-Cote. This is the stuff you dip tool handles in to put a plastic handle on them. Dip the bolt in the plasti-cote until it's just a smidge smaller than the bore and push the bullet out. It won't bend and it won't scratch the bore. I just did this with my .44 revolver.

 

[Thirties]

Plastic dip coating is a good idea (I've used it on other projects), but I'm going to go for the turned brass. At the end of the day, I'll have spent less time and maybe a bit more money on it. But I'll have a good tool for the future.

Thanks all. Please 444 don't feel like you have to quiet down. I never took offense and never got you wrong. I don't have a lathe, and it's just as far to go to this guy who'll make me two brass rods as it would be to go to the lumber yard for the dowels. The dowel I have is just too large for the bore. As it is, I use that wood dowel to remove fired cases from my Nagant -- much easier than the ejection rod on the gun.

I mostly wanted to know which direction was best to drive out the bullet, and any sure-fire ideas anyone had. Thank you all. I'd buy a six pack and share them with you all if you were here...

 

[Archie]

Another easy tool....

Home Depot (or probably most general hardware stores) have threaded brass rod in various diameters. They are a couple bucks each.

You'll have to do your own math, but the sizes are proper for most calibers. Probably a special one for 22s, one for .358 that will also serve for .452. Anyone have a .32?

Cheaper than a friendly machinist, usually.

Oh. Hold the barrel in your hand and whack it (the brass rod, that is) with a solid club or hammer. That way you won't overstress the frame or screw up the grips.

 

[Hal]

<--- Mr. Cheapskate there--

used a pencil. Just whomped on the eraser end with the palm of my hand.

 

[Stainz]

Ace Hardware's, Home Depot, Lowe's, and even craft/hobby stores often carry displays of brass/steel/aluminum rod in 3' lengths. A 3/16 " brass rod will work for .223 up. I cut ~ 9" off, leaving that longer piece for my rifles. When you whack the malleable brass, it will swell on the whacked end, eventually necessitating a bit of reshaping. It is best to 'continue the path' by pushing the bullet out the muzzle - so much for theory - I always have had to push them backwards.

The short rod has reseated balls in my Ruger Old Army as well as bullets in my M10 - both cap/primer only shots. It is always in my range bag. Sadly, I have to go back to the hardware store - my 27" 1/8 " rod doesn't work well as a cleaning rod in my new CZ-452 'Ultra Lux' and it's 28" barrel!

Stainz

 

[Thirties]

Thanks, guys. My machinist is making me two rods. One for .32 and one for .38, sized appropriately smaller based on his measurement. Twenty bucks is what he will charge. I've got him working on it.