remove name off handgun
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CapnMac
Member
Might be easiest to just buy a plain-sided slide.
Now, whether it will fit well on your frame could be another question. But, the smithing needed to fit a frame could be less than the time needed to fill in rollstamping, too.
Now, whether it will fit well on your frame could be another question. But, the smithing needed to fit a frame could be less than the time needed to fill in rollstamping, too.
dfariswheel
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There are two basic methods of doing this.
One is to actually fill in the stamping.
This can be done with a special filler material. Lauer Duracoat sells one.
The problem with this type of filler is that no chemical finish like bluing or parkerizing will work with it, since it's not a metal.
If you're going to apply a paint type finish like Duracoat, it works.
The other type of filling is to have a master gunsmith/welder actually use a welder to fill the stampings, then re-surface the slide to level it out.
The problems here are several.
First, getting a finish to match. When the slide is re-blued or finished with most finishes, you can almost always see the weld area as a slightly different color under the finish.
Second, the cost is high. You need a top professional gunsmith who's also a top welder to do this without ruining the slide. Finding such an expert and affording the cost is tough.
The next way of dealing with stampings is to remove metal until you get to the bottom of the stampings.
In some cases this requires significant metal removal, and this may leave the slide "lop sided" from having more metal removed from one side.
This requires an expert in metal polishing to do it right. The flats have to be maintained, and that's not as easy as you might think.
A bad polishing job will leave ripples in the flats, and often intrude on the rounded areas.
To do the metal removal method, talk to a top gun re-finisher service like APW/Cogan or Ford's.
One is to actually fill in the stamping.
This can be done with a special filler material. Lauer Duracoat sells one.
The problem with this type of filler is that no chemical finish like bluing or parkerizing will work with it, since it's not a metal.
If you're going to apply a paint type finish like Duracoat, it works.
The other type of filling is to have a master gunsmith/welder actually use a welder to fill the stampings, then re-surface the slide to level it out.
The problems here are several.
First, getting a finish to match. When the slide is re-blued or finished with most finishes, you can almost always see the weld area as a slightly different color under the finish.
Second, the cost is high. You need a top professional gunsmith who's also a top welder to do this without ruining the slide. Finding such an expert and affording the cost is tough.
The next way of dealing with stampings is to remove metal until you get to the bottom of the stampings.
In some cases this requires significant metal removal, and this may leave the slide "lop sided" from having more metal removed from one side.
This requires an expert in metal polishing to do it right. The flats have to be maintained, and that's not as easy as you might think.
A bad polishing job will leave ripples in the flats, and often intrude on the rounded areas.
To do the metal removal method, talk to a top gun re-finisher service like APW/Cogan or Ford's.
Nushif
Member
I'd love to have all the extraneous info (read: everything but the serial number required by law) removed, too.
I also like very clean and uncluttered workplaces, minimalist art and design and simple lines. The OPs request sounds quite legit to me. 8)
I also like very clean and uncluttered workplaces, minimalist art and design and simple lines. The OPs request sounds quite legit to me. 8)
Confederate
Member
As ill-advised as it is, if you really want to do it, use a Dremel to remove the words, then a Brillo pad or stainless steel wool to even things out. After that, you can have the gun is refinished.
A plain gun is sort of boring, but you can have it engraved. And refinishing it can cover a multitude of sins.
A plain gun is sort of boring, but you can have it engraved. And refinishing it can cover a multitude of sins.
Shadow 7D
Member
actually I would check the legality, I know that law requires a minimum of information to be on a gun, and you might be removing too much
Silver solder dropped on a warmed slide, should stick well enough and blend well with stainless or white, but a for a finished slide, I would redo it with GUNKOTE, or Dura-Coat, and fill in with bondo, autobody stuff.
Silver solder dropped on a warmed slide, should stick well enough and blend well with stainless or white, but a for a finished slide, I would redo it with GUNKOTE, or Dura-Coat, and fill in with bondo, autobody stuff.
Jim Watson
Member
As dfaris said, Lauer makes a product called Durafil to level irregularities - and fill in "billboard" markings - before applying Duracoat. I would not try auto or hardware products like Bondo, epoxy, or solder.
I have seen pictures of slides surface ground or flat sanded to remove markings. They usually come out pretty well, although it takes careful work to either miss or recut the serrations. One guy said he sanded his SA EMP so hard as to "damage the structural integrity" and had to buy a new slide. Sounds like an extreme case.
I have seen guns with pits and gouges welded up and resurfaced. I would limit that to a mistreated rare gun in an expensive and detailed restoration, not a fixup of a standard model. Better to have one built from scratch; Caspian will sell you an unmarked slide and a frame with only the legal requirements of maker and serial number.
I have seen pictures of slides surface ground or flat sanded to remove markings. They usually come out pretty well, although it takes careful work to either miss or recut the serrations. One guy said he sanded his SA EMP so hard as to "damage the structural integrity" and had to buy a new slide. Sounds like an extreme case.
I have seen guns with pits and gouges welded up and resurfaced. I would limit that to a mistreated rare gun in an expensive and detailed restoration, not a fixup of a standard model. Better to have one built from scratch; Caspian will sell you an unmarked slide and a frame with only the legal requirements of maker and serial number.
I just did this with my Taurus PT1911 prior to having it refinished, Even added a carry bevel/melt job.
I just used 60# grit sandpaper and placed it on glass and after many hours i had both billboards ground off. The billboards luckily aren't half as deep as the serial number so its fully intact and the same with where it was made and by whom.
Stock
Initial slide sanding done.
Bevel and melt job under way.
Ready for the refinisher.
Im awaiting the gun back from the Refinisher who is Parkerizing it first, And the coating with KG GunKote. I should have had it back by now so im getting very anxious and stressed as i miss this gun as i also rebuilt it from the pins and springs up with all high end parts i hand fit.
I now own the worlds most expensive gun thats worth $350 on trade-in.
I just used 60# grit sandpaper and placed it on glass and after many hours i had both billboards ground off. The billboards luckily aren't half as deep as the serial number so its fully intact and the same with where it was made and by whom.
Stock
Initial slide sanding done.
Bevel and melt job under way.
Ready for the refinisher.
Im awaiting the gun back from the Refinisher who is Parkerizing it first, And the coating with KG GunKote. I should have had it back by now so im getting very anxious and stressed as i miss this gun as i also rebuilt it from the pins and springs up with all high end parts i hand fit.
I now own the worlds most expensive gun thats worth $350 on trade-in.
Nushif
Member
Love what you did to that PT1911 ... Care if I send you my PT911 (still not a typo) and you do that same thing for me? >.<
I'd pay!
I'd pay!
It was alot of work but i think will pay off when i get my gun back.
I don't work on other peoples guns tho, Sorry. Too many liabilities and im no pro, just a hobbyist.
It actually would have looked really good had i just left it alone and how it looked in the second picture. In the rest of the pics it progressively got uglier as the work continued. But i wanted a bevel and melt job done since i do ccw with this gun.
But im told by the refinisher that all the exterior work came out looking great, Now i just have to see it for myself.
Really it isnt hard work at all, Just time consuming. The slide is flat on the sides anyhow so all you have to do is push it back and forth and make sure its in a straight line.
You could even progress up to higher grits and make it look like a high polished Stainless Steel, But you may need a baked on layer of clear coating as white steel will rust and pit easily if not watched closely.
I don't work on other peoples guns tho, Sorry. Too many liabilities and im no pro, just a hobbyist.
It actually would have looked really good had i just left it alone and how it looked in the second picture. In the rest of the pics it progressively got uglier as the work continued. But i wanted a bevel and melt job done since i do ccw with this gun.
But im told by the refinisher that all the exterior work came out looking great, Now i just have to see it for myself.
Really it isnt hard work at all, Just time consuming. The slide is flat on the sides anyhow so all you have to do is push it back and forth and make sure its in a straight line.
You could even progress up to higher grits and make it look like a high polished Stainless Steel, But you may need a baked on layer of clear coating as white steel will rust and pit easily if not watched closely.
Nushif
Member
I did the side of my PT911 (Yup, still no typo) in silver as well, but didn't quite go as deep as you. After some 600, then 800, then 1k grit sandpaper I can see myself pretty clearly in it.
Don't worry i know what the PT911 is as ive owned a few Tauri.
But i had to double check pics online of your gun as i wasn't sure of the exact slide shape.
Id definitely tape up any parts that may accidentally get scratched during the process.
Im not sure how deep the marks go on yours, Mine wasn't too deep but it still goes deeper than what you think.
The billboards penetrate the metal and affect it under what you see so you still have a ways to go even after all the physical marks are gone. Its like a shadow you can see in the steel that is affected when the roll mark is done.
Is yours stainless? If not you need to make sure you keep a good protectant on it.
But i had to double check pics online of your gun as i wasn't sure of the exact slide shape.
Id definitely tape up any parts that may accidentally get scratched during the process.
Im not sure how deep the marks go on yours, Mine wasn't too deep but it still goes deeper than what you think.
The billboards penetrate the metal and affect it under what you see so you still have a ways to go even after all the physical marks are gone. Its like a shadow you can see in the steel that is affected when the roll mark is done.
Is yours stainless? If not you need to make sure you keep a good protectant on it.
mcdonl
Member
I would replace the slide. If you ever need to sell it, people will be hesitant to purchase a "no name" gun that has obviously been modified. This way, you can keep the original slide to put back on the gun.
Be careful doing this. The law may not work in your favor. Modifying a serial number, even a little, and even if it's still visible and legible, can be bad news.
Granted, the only serial number that MATTERS is the one on the receiver (frame). In the above pics, the barrel and slide serial #'s do NOT matter as far as the law is concerned, those are not "firearms", the frame is. But the law itself is gray, in that it doesn't specify WHICH serial numbers - it blanket covers ANY serial number being modified in ANY way.
As far as that frame, receiver modifications must be made with great care - usually for repair only - as a modified receiver can normally be construed as "making a new firearm".
If you strip a serial # off the frame thinking that it's OK since there's still two more serial #'s, one on the barrel, and one on the slide, you just created an illegal firearm.
Granted, the only serial number that MATTERS is the one on the receiver (frame). In the above pics, the barrel and slide serial #'s do NOT matter as far as the law is concerned, those are not "firearms", the frame is. But the law itself is gray, in that it doesn't specify WHICH serial numbers - it blanket covers ANY serial number being modified in ANY way.
As far as that frame, receiver modifications must be made with great care - usually for repair only - as a modified receiver can normally be construed as "making a new firearm".
If you strip a serial # off the frame thinking that it's OK since there's still two more serial #'s, one on the barrel, and one on the slide, you just created an illegal firearm.
Replacing the slide isn't worth it on a $600 lower end gun that has a trade-in value of $350-$400.
I say that as most of the companies putting these big billboards on guns are the lower priced ones.
But even so mine still read "Taurus-Made in Brazil" or something close to that as i don't have the gun back yet, But its above the serial number.
If done right i think someone can tell a gun was modified for aesthetics and making it more appealing and functional, Rather than a gun ground down due to excess abuse.
But if it were a Colt,Mid grade SA or Kimber the second slide would be a good option like you say and even add value since two slides would be sold with the gun.
But on a gun like my Taurus it still would be worth $350.
I didnt mention this but before i did all the slide sanding and beveling and melting i rebuilt the gun from the pins and springs up with all high end parts thats are machined and no MIM from Wilson,Baer and Brown and EGW and hand fitted each one. Only the bare frame/slide and barrel is original.
I have $1500 in the gun in parts and refinish and cost of gun alone. Adding a new factory slide would do nothing to help my case.
Ill add why i did such a waste of money as many would see with this gun.
This was my first 1911 that taught me how to work on them and modify and hand fit parts to them as well as diagnose issues.
Secondly ive put 2k rounds threw it before the rebuild with only failures when a part was dieing and needed replaced, Like a magazine and an extractor that needed replaced. So its been very reliable as long as i do my part and keep up on maintenance.
Its a shooter for sure, Even out of the box it was smooth and easy to shoot like no other gun ive shot, But it was my first 1911 also.
Lastly, But most importantly. The trigger group was ruined by me in a botched trigger job, So as a birthday present my ailing older parents i take care of bought me high end parts to replace the ruined ones and i knew right then i could never get rid of the gun.
It may say Taurus in a few spots, But in my mind its a (Don XXXX) made gun.
But sadly its only worth $350 on trade in, But to me its priceless.
I purposely buried myself so deep into it money wise so i couldn't ever sell it and live with myself.
Ill also say id put it against many high end semi customs in how it shoots and accuracy as many improvements were done that Taurus doesn't do and its well known Taurus 1911's are very accurate guns as it is.
But don't get me wrong, Im not delusional. I know its no WC,Baer or Brown.
But its a gun that no one would be ashamed to own.
mcdonl- Just so you know my post wasn't aimed at you as i know you was speaking to the OP, But it just got my mind thinking and typing so pls don't take anything i said to offense as its not something aimed at you, Its just me talking about my gun.
I say that as most of the companies putting these big billboards on guns are the lower priced ones.
But even so mine still read "Taurus-Made in Brazil" or something close to that as i don't have the gun back yet, But its above the serial number.
If done right i think someone can tell a gun was modified for aesthetics and making it more appealing and functional, Rather than a gun ground down due to excess abuse.
But if it were a Colt,Mid grade SA or Kimber the second slide would be a good option like you say and even add value since two slides would be sold with the gun.
But on a gun like my Taurus it still would be worth $350.
I didnt mention this but before i did all the slide sanding and beveling and melting i rebuilt the gun from the pins and springs up with all high end parts thats are machined and no MIM from Wilson,Baer and Brown and EGW and hand fitted each one. Only the bare frame/slide and barrel is original.
I have $1500 in the gun in parts and refinish and cost of gun alone. Adding a new factory slide would do nothing to help my case.
Ill add why i did such a waste of money as many would see with this gun.
This was my first 1911 that taught me how to work on them and modify and hand fit parts to them as well as diagnose issues.
Secondly ive put 2k rounds threw it before the rebuild with only failures when a part was dieing and needed replaced, Like a magazine and an extractor that needed replaced. So its been very reliable as long as i do my part and keep up on maintenance.
Its a shooter for sure, Even out of the box it was smooth and easy to shoot like no other gun ive shot, But it was my first 1911 also.
Lastly, But most importantly. The trigger group was ruined by me in a botched trigger job, So as a birthday present my ailing older parents i take care of bought me high end parts to replace the ruined ones and i knew right then i could never get rid of the gun.
It may say Taurus in a few spots, But in my mind its a (Don XXXX) made gun.
But sadly its only worth $350 on trade in, But to me its priceless.
I purposely buried myself so deep into it money wise so i couldn't ever sell it and live with myself.
Ill also say id put it against many high end semi customs in how it shoots and accuracy as many improvements were done that Taurus doesn't do and its well known Taurus 1911's are very accurate guns as it is.
But don't get me wrong, Im not delusional. I know its no WC,Baer or Brown.
But its a gun that no one would be ashamed to own.
mcdonl- Just so you know my post wasn't aimed at you as i know you was speaking to the OP, But it just got my mind thinking and typing so pls don't take anything i said to offense as its not something aimed at you, Its just me talking about my gun.
Trent- I don't disagree with what you say, But would find it almost improbable that messing with a slides serial number just slightly removing some excess metal but still leaving the number fully legible and the Manufacturer and country of origin still intact that it would take any Gov. agency to have a big issue with you and just looking for any excuse to nail you with a crime to be that picky.
In most cases, Unless it was altering the serial number on the frame id say you chance of issues are very low.
But it is wise to keep it in mind as you have stated, Better safe than sorry.
Luckily the serial numbers are 3x as deep as any other stamps or roll marks on the gun so it has almost no affect on the stuff thats important.
But all guns are different, It may help if the OP stated what gun he was wanting this work done on.
In most cases, Unless it was altering the serial number on the frame id say you chance of issues are very low.
But it is wise to keep it in mind as you have stated, Better safe than sorry.
Luckily the serial numbers are 3x as deep as any other stamps or roll marks on the gun so it has almost no affect on the stuff thats important.
But all guns are different, It may help if the OP stated what gun he was wanting this work done on.
GeoffC
Member
Yeah, sorry, but thats nonsense, you can modify a receiver all you want provided you arent turning a rifle into a short barreled rifle or something that crosses into NFA stuff. Modifying a receiver is in no way "creating a new firearm". Everyday hundreds of 1911 frames are "modified".
Serial numbers, the one on the frame must be there, if something happens to it, it can be restamped. Sometimes during refinishing this does happen.
If it was illegal to do away with a slide SN, then it would by the same token be illegal to replace a slide or barrel.
modify all ya want, the only thing that has to be on your pistol is a sn on the frame.
Serial numbers, the one on the frame must be there, if something happens to it, it can be restamped. Sometimes during refinishing this does happen.
If it was illegal to do away with a slide SN, then it would by the same token be illegal to replace a slide or barrel.
modify all ya want, the only thing that has to be on your pistol is a sn on the frame.
jimmyraythomason
Member
What state are you in? It can make a BIG difference. In Alabama such modification is illegal. <http://law.onecle.com/alabama/criminal-code/13A-11-64.html>
I would suggest you check your states laws before doing anything irreversible.
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GeoffC
Member
This is on the FRAME only. You can do whatever you want to a slide...
If you could not, Brownells and Midway would cease shipping to Alabama or where ever....
somewhere on that frame is stamped the maker, and the sn, thats all it needs
If you could not, Brownells and Midway would cease shipping to Alabama or where ever....
somewhere on that frame is stamped the maker, and the sn, thats all it needs
Sam1911
Moderator Emeritus
From a legal standpoint, only the receiver or frame IS a firearm. The atf doesn't regulate items like barrels and slides which are NOT firearms. Foreign-made weapons often had serial numbers applied to a great many parts, down to stocks and magazines. You can replace any of those secondary items, or modify them, at will. ONLY the one on that one controlled part (reciever, frame, etc.) matters at all.
This is not at all true. Modify all you want. Tens of thousands of firearms are heavily modified by gunsmiths and hobbyists every year. You can do pretty much anything you want so long as you don't cross into NFA "Title II" territory (like by adding a buttstock or vertical fore-grip to a pistol) and you don't obliterate the serial number.
Even if the second part of that statement was true, there is no law (federally, or in most states) against making a new firearm, so what difference would that make?
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jimmyraythomason
Member
While I agree with you in principle that isn't what the law says. The Alabama law makes no distinction as to where the markings are located on the firearm.
Sam1911
Moderator Emeritus
What is the definition of a "firearm" under Alabama law, then? Do they use the federal definitions, or have they expressly stated that they consider a firearm to be inclusive of other bits and pieces bolted to what the federal government regulates as a "firearm?"
jimmyraythomason
Member
Perhaps Alabama's definition of a firearm would be a moot point if the OP would give his state. If he isn't in Alabama(unless his state has a similar law) it won't matter. All I did was to suggest the OP check his state laws before doing anything drastic using my state as an example of what he may run into. Not to to defend or explain my state's laws or legal definitions.
Sam1911
Moderator Emeritus
Well, O.k. But you did post part of AL's law and then went on to explain how part of it applies. So I was asking if you had that other critical piece of info.
If you don't know how AL defines what consititues a firearm, just say so.
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