Removing a Squib load

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I've never had the problem, but I'm wondering if carefully drilling out the center of the obstructing bullet would create the space for the projectile to derform inwards under pressure and ease removal by the hammering methods suggested?
 
If it is a lead bullet, then Brownell's has a nice, brass squib rod that they sell for .38s. If it is a jacketed bullet, my gunsmith generally uses a closely fitted, smooth steel rod to pound it out. Any small marks left by the smooth, closely fitted rod are better than the price of a new barrel.
 
In the past I've used a brass punch and a bench vise to press a bullet out of a 9mm barrel. I imagine a bench vise or C-clamp could be configured with a brass punch to force the bullet out of the barrel. Special attention must be paid to avoid damaging the crown.
 
Since Ruger doesn't remove squibs and the cost of a new barrel is high, my dealer had my gun sent back and my gunsmith got it out for me. I don't know what the magic trick was, but I heard the word vise being used. Probably takes a lot of pressure to push some squibs out. Shoots just fine.
 
The Cost

Got the bad news from the dealer. 257.00 for a new barrel, labor and shipping. I still don't have the gun either. Spoke with Ruger two weeks ago and they said it would take about eight weeks for everything. This coming Monday the 16 will be eight weeks. I am having withdrawls.
 
Most handgun powders are completely burned in normal loads before the bullet has moved more then an inch, and faster powders may have completely been consumed before the base of the bullet clears the case.

Assuming this were true, why is there a fireball evident from so many loads? And why so many reports of unburned powder especially in 38/.357 Mag loads in a 1 7/8" barrel?
 
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