Removing M1A Plug w/o Gas Cylinder Wrench

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Cowboybebop

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A long time ago the first M1A I ever got needed a gas system cleaning, so I looked in the Springfield Armory manual and it said "use the combination tool to remove gas plug". No other instructions, and certainly no mention of using a gas cylinder wrench or how to hold the rifle.


So I stuck the stock on the ground between my legs to keep it still and twisted off the gas plug with my GI combo tool (I know you M14 guys are cringing). Boy did those Springfield guys put the plug on tight.


So a few years later I came across the gas cylinder wrench and learned about how you're 'supposed' to do it, holding the cylinder only with the wrench and twisting the opposite direction with the combo tool.



Here are my questions:

Has anyone actually seen with their own eyes damage to the splines, barrel recesses, gas cylinder or lock, stock bedding, etc from manhandling the rifle by the stock while removing the gas plug?

If damage to the splines and cylinder is so easy to do, why doesn't Springfield say anything about it in the manual? The GI-issue rifles in the 50s didn't come with a gas cylinder wrench, so how did our boys turn the gas plug? I'm guessing with the stock between their legs while holding the GI combo tool.

Thoughts?
 
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The same way you did it! That's all we ever had in our cleaning kits. I also reamed the gas cylinder with the end of the operating spring guide, perfect fit, I think it was made for that.
 
Been using my GI Combination tool for twenty plus years on my M1A and have yet to damage it. Never managed to damage the M14 that the government gave me either. You really need to go some to screw up the splines on a M1A or M1 Garand rifle.

Ron
 
You can clamp the gas system in a padded vice. or use a big enough pair of pliers.

But yeah, if you don't secure the gas cyl, you're counter torque is coming via the splines. The splines are what hopefully give your gas cyl an extremely tight fit on the barrel. Tight gas system is a big part of getting the M14 to shoot tight. So if you want the rifle to shoot it's best, it's best to clamp the gas cyl when you work on the gas plug. The splines can be peened tight again, but why go there if it's easily avoided?


GI guys were backed by gov't funded maintenance activities that kept their rifles up and running well. Getting every ounce of accuracy out of the standard rifle wasn't a thing either. But the armorers supporting the competitive teams had different views on how the rifle should be maintained in order to shoot 10's and X's reliably. And that's how we got a large portion of the aftermarket and accuracy stuff for the M14.
 
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When I remove the gas cylinder plug, I use the combo tool, with the butt between my feet---the classic pose.
But as I turn the wrench, I am also applying counter rotation with my left hand wrapped around the gas cylinder; so the spline cuts are not stressed.
This is the same as cocking a 1911 by pushing the slide back with the left hand while pushing the frame forward with the right.

I have yet to find any distortion of the spline cuts on my three rifles, but I don't do a lot of disassembly, either.
-----krinko

406610913.jpg
 
Match rifles have the front band either welded or screwed onto the gas cylinder. I have always used the gas cylinder wrench because I don't want to bend or break anything.

I also use Anti-Seize on the threads of the gas cylinder lock. Makes it a lot easier to break it loose. Buy this at the Auto Store, used on exhaust manifold bolts.

https://www.permatex.com/products/l...s-anti-seize/permatex-anti-seize-lubricant-2/

80078.jpg
 
"...the plug on tight..." Done for the same reason car makers use nuclear powered screw drivers and wrenches. Terrified of a part coming loose or worse, off.
"... didn't come with a gas cylinder wrench..." Part of the cleaning rod. At least it is with the one that came with my semi'd Winchester.
Geezuz, krinko, that a factory stock?
 
I don't know if you'd call this "factory"---

406610906.jpg

But it does have plugs inset into the cutouts for the fun switch.

406610909.jpg

It's one of these---

406610911.jpg

-----RC aka krinko
 
Nice looking rifle there krinko in what appears to be an original GI wood stock. A few years ago while visiting a gun show in NC I saw one on a table with the metal included. Asked the fellow his price and he answered $30, I couldn't buy it fast enough. Likely the best gun show deal I ever got. :) If you remove the butt plate you may see who made it. Mine is stamped with a "S" for Sykes Manufacturing (subcontractor for Springfield Armory), the actual Springfield Armory in MA. :)

Anyway, one sweet rifle you have there.

Ron
 
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