Questions About M1 Garand Field Stripping

[GooseGestapo]

Both my Garands are set to zero the rear by moving the front!
But, I didn't start shooting high-power till after 30+yrs of NRA PPC. Seemed the natural thing to do.

BTW; The "match" gun takes 14clicks up to make 200yd zero. The CMP Special I use for JCG and GSV matches takes 10clicks up.

2 more gives 300yd, 10 more 600...

 

[cfullgraf]

I zero the front sight for windage on the Garands I have that get shot regularly.

It is the way it is supposed to be, isn't it?

 

[Reloadron]

I zero the front sight for windage on the Garands I have that get shot regularly.

It is the way it is supposed to be, isn't it?

As far as I know. Calm day take rifle out and at 100 yards with my rear windage at center I adjust my front site. Once done that's it.

Ron

 

[1short]

when i was shooting in matches with my m1A-7.62x51, a man who shot quite a lot told me that he only cleaned it when the action got slugish and loosened the trigger group(not taking it out)to keep the wood from compressing. he shot pretty good,comming in fifth or better. eastbank.

I agree. My M1A is steel bedded in a GI birch stock that some call the "Big Red." It could be just my particular rifle or something the Armorer did, but every time I remove the stock the gun goes to pie plate sized groups and takes dozens of rounds before it will settle back to it's 2.5 MOA accuracy using LC ammo.

 

[kBob]

Gas cylinder.

You do know that the "handle" of the late model butt stock cleaning rod is a multi tool of sorts right?

1. It acts as a handle for the cleaning rod segments
2. It is a tool to help disassemble the bolt and re assemble it as well
3. It is a screw driver to remove the butt plate screws
4. the screw driver base fits into the gas plug and a section of cleaning rod goes through the large hole in the bolt disassembly end to allow one to have plenty of torque to remove the gas plug.

The old manuals also showed that a bit of pine board was some times a useful thing to smack the bayonet lug toward the muzzle after removing the gas plug and gas cylinder lock as carbon from the gas port would sometimes wedge the gas cylinder in place.

It the splines on the barrel and the lugs in the gas cylinder were new sometimes one hammered the gas cylinder back into place into the splines with the same bit of pine board across the screw end of the gas cylinder.

I personally believe that spline damage is from the hot gas from the gas port seeking a way out before the gas piston reaches the point it might vent and normal barrel vibration slowly doing minute hammering on the splines and lugs.

Occasionally one might encounter an M-1 (or BM59) that does not want to function and finds that wear on the splines or lugs or both has been such that it is possible to hammer the gas cylinder into place so that the gas port of the barrel is forward of the window for it in the gas cylinder so not enough gas gets to the cylinder. Quick fix is blocking the rear of the forward hand guard so it does not go far enough back, but this means the gas cylinder and so front sight will have a bit of play. A better long term fix is to peen the splines and pay attention to how far you use that pine board to hammer the gas cylinder onto the barrel.

I personally like the late model plastic based ratchet chamber brush much better than either the earlier combo tool with attached chamber patch holder or brass brush. We used the same sort of device on the M-14 and on the M60 GPMG though the base on the M60 model was much longer to reach into the barrel extension on that gun with.

-kBob

 

[Merle1]

My point was.....You're gonna clean it from the muzzle no matter what kind of rod you use.

Unless you are like me and use a bore snake.