Removing the "sharpness" on a polymer grip texture ?

[Rule3]

The gun is a HK USP compact, The front and back (straps) of the grip/frame are very sharp. The sides not so much. the sides are fine. The grip is the frame not like some of the interchangeable ones.

Is there a way to "knock down" the sharp points such as light sanding file etc.

I do not want to put a "rubber" on it.

I can and have lived with and do not want to damage the gun in any way.

Anyone done this on any "plastic" guns?

 

[RecoilRob]

Absolutely! Sand or file the points down until they feel the way you want. Of course...this does constitute 'damage' in that you are changing it from 'as delivered', but if it feels too sharp to you without adding something over the points you either have to live with them or modify.

 

[Rule3]

Absolutely! Sand or file the points down until they feel the way you want. Of course...this does constitute 'damage' in that you are changing it from 'as delivered', but if it feels too sharp to you without adding something over the points you either have to live with them or modify.

Is it going to be "noticeable"?

I do a lot of wood working and it would be like use 220 paper or finer.

I have seen Glocks where folks have ADDED dimples with a heat probe or something but not the opposite.

 

[Telekinesis]

Is it going to be "noticeable"?

I do a lot of wood working and it would be like use 220 paper or finer.

I have seen Glocks where folks have ADDED dimples with a heat probe or something but not the opposite.

Whether or not it is noticeable will depend on how much you remove. If you are experienced with wood working I would bet that you'll do a good job.

When a gun gets aftermarket stippling it is pretty standard that if the owner thinks it is too aggressive, they will take some sand paper to it and knock down some of the sharp edges.

 

[Mizar]

Some 500 grit (FEPA P 1000 grit) wet/dry sandpaper, saturated with water - use only your fingers as a backing to round the edges in circular motions. As a woodworker you already know that it's better to start with a higher grit and find out that it's insufficient, instead to start low and then try to cover up the scratches.
You can also use some 0000 steel wool, but it's going to be a mess (not the gun, your work place).

 

[Rule3]

Some 500 grit (FEPA P 1000 grit) wet/dry sandpaper, saturated with water - use only your fingers as a backing to round the edges in circular motions. As a woodworker you already know that it's better to start with a higher grit and find out that it's insufficient, instead to start low and then try to cover up the scratches.
You can also use some 0000 steel wool, but it's going to be a mess (not the gun, your work place).

Yes I have lots of wet dry up to 2000 grit.or so

Still chicken It's a pricey gun. Maybe some Talon decal grips?

 

[Scooter22]

Don't use steel wool. Do you want all those sharp little metal splinters embedded in the grip? Sandpaper would work but I'd get one of the 3M sanding pads. You can get different grades. IIRC the light grey is equivalent to a 4/0 SW but won't leave any particles. Plus its more flexible than sand paper and you can use them wet.

 

[Varminterror]

It’s plastic - give it some light, but sharp raps with the flat face of a hammer, it’ll knock down the points.

 

[Mizar]

Don't use steel wool. Do you want all those sharp little metal splinters embedded in the grip?

I haven't encounter that when dealing with different plastics, but if you say so...

 

[Rule3]

I have 3M pads. I do prefer them to steel wool, No more steel splinters

 

[DT Guy]

Truthfully, I'd actually start with the 2000 grit and work down the grits; as Old is Not Dead pointed out, you want to work from 'not enough' to 'enough' without going through 'too much.'

Larry