Replacing bullets in Tulammo

[alaskan9974]

Can I replace the bullets and powder with reliability with the steel cases? I have 3-4K rounds of 5.56 and 1k 7.62, would like to pull the bullets and powder and replace with 4895 and SMK's.

Can I store the powder and use it metered at a later time to the same charge with surplus fmjs in the same weight for plinking in my brass cases if I ever run low on components? I live in Alaska and powder and primers are expensive.

 

[cosh]

I have done what you are asking with 5.56. Pulled powder and bullets from the same lot. I don't know if the powder changes from lot to lot as mfrs change from time to time. I saved the powder from the same lot and labeled it well so I would know where it came from.

I worked the load back up when I was ready to make plinking ammo, but stayed a couple grains less than the original. Less pressure and it was fine for plinking.

Also know that when you change components, especially bullets, it affects case capacity and your OAL too. If you are on the top end pressures can spike quickly depending on the powder. Be safe!

 

[Rule3]

I guess my question is why?

You state primers and powder are expensive which I am sure they are!

But you are essentially loading the metal cases with NEW powder and bullets so what are you saving? The primers in the metal cases? Then you plan to load plinking ammo with the surplus powder but would need NEW Primers for that??

Perhaps I missing something besides my mind

 

[Reloadron]

Can I replace the bullets and powder with reliability with the steel cases? I have 3-4K rounds of 5.56 and 1k 7.62, would like to pull the bullets and powder and replace with 4895 and SMK's.

Can I store the powder and use it metered at a later time to the same charge with surplus fmjs in the same weight for plinking in my brass cases if I ever run low on components? I live in Alaska and powder and primers are expensive.

Can it be done? Yes, but personally I wouldn't bother. I would just shoot the steel cased stuff you have the way it is. While plenty of people have actually reloaded steel cased ammunition the steel is not as forgiving as brass, especially when you look to get good, consistent neck tension when seating new bullets. You also mention the use of SMK (Sierra Match King) bullets and have concerns as to primer cost? When using a premium bullet like a SMK I would not be worried about primer cost. Alaska, like Hawaii requires just about everything be shipped in and I can appreciate what you say as to things being more expensive. However, if you want good, reliable ammunition I suggest starting with good components.

To answer your question as to can it be done? Yes it can but personally I would not bother doing it. Just my opinion.

Ron

 

[ArchAngelCD]

As has been said, it can be done but I would not. You will save nothing and spend A LOT OF TIME puling 3 to 4k bullets. Also like said why would you want to put a premium bullet in a steel case? You are using fresh powder and good bullets in poor quality cases, load them in brass to start with and shoot the ammo you have as is. Even in Alaska .223 cases are not that expensive as to justify pulling 4k bullets and reloading the cases with fresh powder. The cases are the least expensive component in the mix.

 

[mdi]

I have faced a similar experience but with 7.62x39. I wanted to pull and discard stock bullets and powder and replace with premium, but that seemed like a lot of work (and working with steel cases). What I did was purchase a bit of good ammo one or two boxes at a time ( brass cases, boxer primed) and included them along with the Wolf/Red Army stuff. I collected the good brass for reloading and just reloaded, completely, with good components. I'd shoot mebbe 100-150 rounds per session, save the brass and let the steel cases stay where they fell...

 

[Sun Tzu warrior]

Sell the steel, and buy some good brass cases/shipping and you will still be better off.
What rate of twist does your intended rifle have?
77gr may not even be optimal.
STW

 

[au_prospector]

For what purpose do you covet steel cases that would bring this question? You are better off using the Wolf as you plinking and buying brass mail order for your premium bullets. You gunna run that many steel cases through your nice reloading dies? Not me. Unless your looking for an all winter project?

 

[blarby]

Can I replace the bullets and powder with reliability with the steel cases? I have 3-4K rounds of 5.56 and 1k 7.62, would like to pull the bullets and powder and replace with 4895 and SMK's.

An old practice, replacing military style bullets with hunting bullets. Search 30 caliber handloading after WWII

Steel cases CAN be resized and reused just like brass, although they have a shorter service life and are harder on cutting tools used in the handloading process. I'd recommend carbide cutting tools when reloading.

Can I store the powder and use it metered at a later time to the same charge with surplus fmjs in the same weight for plinking in my brass cases if I ever run low on components? I live in Alaska and powder and primers are expensive.

Well, you could, but you have no idea what it is. Thats potentially dangerous. You have no idea how old the powder is, and therefore how it degrades, exactly what processes and projectile combinations were used to achieve safe operating pressure, etc.

However, Im realistic, and I know the stool you are sitting on. Warnings given and heeded, right ?

If your plan was to note the cartridge, the bullet weight, the powder charge, and then to "mexi match" the components back together at a later date due to pressing reason.... Take good notes. People "meximatch" milsurp loads from time to time for consistency, and thats essentially exactly what you'd be doing. I wouldn't get in to substituting "this for that" all willy nilly with that stash however....i'd keep it packaged and labeled for direct reassembly in dire circumstances.

 

[alaskan9974]

In the bigger cities it is easy to get this stuff in Alaska, but where I live, primers and powders are either barged or flown cargo for an extra $150 fee so trying to save where I can, however I can bring cases of ammo in my luggage all day long without worry.

I have two 5.56s, both like the heavier pills, one at 1:7 the other is 1:9.

I'll save the bullets and toss the powder. I can buy bullets and brass all day long and pay what you guys pay for shipping through the mail, but primers and powder is where it really costs me. I wasn't planning on doing thousands at a time, just a few hundred or so for beavers in the spring and wolves through the winter. I know I could buy off the shelf, but there is some amount of satisfaction in improving upon something and doing it myself. I am not one to throw stuff but I will be safe and toss the powder.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

I understand what you are saying but I also feel you are doing a lot of work that will not pay off. Using a premium bullet and fresh powder in a steel case may not produce the ammo you are looking for. If it were me I would take a trip to the city and buy primes to load in brass cases to be sure not to waste good bullets and primers. You then have quality ammo for hunting and plinking/range ammo without taking a chance on building poor ammo with expensive components.

 

[Jim Watson]

Used to be known as Mexican Match. Pull hardball and reseat softpoint for hunting or match for targets. If the replacement bullet is close in weight to the hardball, just keep the powder. Or be very picky and equalize the powder charges.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

Used to be known as Mexican Match. Pull hardball and reseat softpoint for hunting or match for targets. If the replacement bullet is close in weight to the hardball, just keep the powder. Or be very picky and equalize the powder charges.

That's not what he's doing, he is changing both the bullets and powder. Just replacing the bullets would make more sense to me.

 

[judgedelta]

Would you not need to neck size the steel cases to get correct (or enough) neck tension? Just wonderin'.

 

[Carl N. Brown]

When I have pulled bullets to replace powder charge and bullet in Berdan primed military cartridges, I have found that pulling the bullet affects the neck and I had to necksize before seating the new bullet over the new powder charge to get consistent bullet/neck tension or pull. My first experiments just crimping the case into the bullet channelure was not enough. I found the cartridge neck had to be resized after the original bullet was pulled. After I acquired enough Boxer primable brass casings, I quit Mexican Matching, but sometimes you do what you have to due to circumstances.

I would be wary of reusing military powder (maybe even powder from commercial ammo); I believe it is common practice to run a production lot of powder as cheaply as possible, test a sample to get the correct load weight for standard velocity at safe pressure, do a production run of ammo with that lot of powder, when the powder runs out, start over.

The powders produced for DIY reloading are kept consistent lot to lot (and are more expensive for that reason) so the same load weight gives the same pressure and velocity. I would not trust military powders to be consistent from one production lot to another. Pulling bullets on military ammo over the years has shown me a wide variety of powder forms and colors.

 

[Jesse Heywood]

I have been tearing down steel case ammo and reloading in 7.62x39. Norinco purchased before slick willy barred the import of Chinese weapons. Cost was 2 cents a round. The bullets are steel jacketed, my range doesn't allow it.

I discard the powder. It is an unknown.

Neck size the cases, apply a mild crimp. My rifle throws most cases to the front right, over the ledge and gone, so I don't lose valuable brass.