replacing S&W frame mounted firing pin

[20nickels]

Could someone please link me to instructions for replacing S&W frame mounted firing pin. All the exploded diagrams I have found have hammer mounted pins.:banghead:

 

[Gator]

http://smith-wessonforum.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/580103904/m/6341072171?r=7141090471#7141090471

Sounds easy enough, I may try it myself

 

[20nickels]

Thanks Gator But the problem is It unintentionally came out while I had the side plate off and I pulled four pieces (I hope only 4) out of my carpet ;
1. long spring
1. short spring
1. retaining pin
1. firing pin

I could probably figure it out, but when it comes to my guns I don't like "probably"

 

[20nickels]

That's really interesting about the longer aftermarket firing pin. Does that give more reliable ignition with a light trigger pull?

 

[Old Fuff]

That's really interesting about the longer aftermarket firing pin. Does that give more reliable ignition with a light trigger pull?

Sometimes… If cylinder end shake has increased the headspace, or you get some cartridges with thin rims, a longer firing pin may work where a standard one doesn’t. But if the headspace is correct and standard firing pin's protrusion is what it’s supposed to be, a longer pin may indent the primer far enough to pierce it. Then you may have an unintended consequence.

Personally, I’d rather stick with the factory firing pin, and have enough mainspring tension to insure ignition without having to use this or that brand of primer.

If Smith & Wesson, or any other manufacturer, thought they could use a longer firing pin without getting into any negative consequences, they would.

 

[Gator]

As I understand it, the frame mounted firing pin needs a harder hit to fire the cartridge than the hammer mounted pin (makes sense...less inertia). A partial solution may be the longer pin, but you would really need a good gunsmith who knows S&W revolvers to be sure. Simply replacing the pin sounds easy, but I wouldn't do that by itself or you may get pierced primers like "Old Fluff" mentioned.

I don't know of a source for an exploded diagram of the newer revolvers, I wish I did, just last night I was looking at my Kuhnhausen S&W shop manual and thinking I needed an updated version (if he has even put one out yet).

 

[Old Fuff]

I don't know of a source for an exploded diagram of the newer revolvers, I wish I did, just last night I was looking at my Kuhnhausen S&W shop manual and thinking I needed an updated version (if he has even put one out yet).

The only source I know of for an exploded view drawing of one of the current revolvers would be Smith & Wesson themselves.

I have noticed that so far no one has put out a shop manual for the "new" Smith & Wessons. Maybe someone is telling us something...

 

[20nickels]

Of course I would have the one part explode all over my living room not covered in any major publications. I suppose I will seek out a qualified gunsmith just to be safe, although I'm sure it isn't brain surgery.

 

[Old Fuff]

Send a personal message to our member, Jim Keenan. He has actually lowered himself to the point of working on these "new model" Smith & Wessons

In the past he has posted information about reassembling the firing pin assembly, and how to go about it. You will find him to be a very helpful gentleman.

 

[20nickels]

Much thanks, I will speak with him. I like square and round butts, it's the Clinton hole that makes me sick