Report on Beeman P17

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jcwit

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Got just shy of 1,000 rounds "are pellets 'rounds'?" down the barrel now. This is one fine shooting/plinking pistol capable of accuracy far beyond what I can do! I'm able to keep all 10 shots under a dime sized group in my garage range using a rest.

Back when I first got it approx., a month ago there were times when the cocking lever would close somewhat easier than normal, this went away with more usage and no longer happens.

How it could shoot and operate any better is beyond me and for the whopping price of $33.00 shipped to my door? Thumbs up!:D
 
The one I bought made it maybe 100 rounds and the seals started leaking. Maybe I need to try another. How long is your garage range?
 
Approx 8 yd's. Did you lube your's?

I put a drop of non detergent 30 weight motor oil on the piston every 100 to 200 shots. Mineral oil, AKA baby oil also works well, neither of these will harm "O" rings. Any oil applied to the piston will also find it's way to the valve seals.
 
Another thing, when you first got your P17, did you check the air inlet hole for burrs? Furthermore, the "O" rings can be gotten at most any hardware store.
 
If you do, loosen the set screw at the linkage hinge where the rod that connects to the piston. Remove the piston and check for burrs at the air inlet hole. If there is any sand off with 600 grit or finer sand paper. Clean all up and relube. See post #3 for lube suggestions or use Lucas Red & Tacky grease.
 
My fam has 3 of them, we seem to have been lucky in that all are going well.
One buddy bought one which had issues but I didn't get to look at it.

Mine is very accurate, great buy for the $$ in my mind. Yes, would pay a little more for the QC to be improved but I know that may quickly make it $100 and not a good buy.
 
I think the P17 is super cool and recommend it to anyone. Can't beat what you get for the $. I have two now, and may buy another.
That burr on the port thing is apparently somewhat a common issue, and probably the #1 reason for complaints and returns. Well, leakage is the #1 complaint and most who have bothered to fix it say it was a burr. I think 90% of people just return the gun so we can only guess. I checked mine first thing and it seemed ok, but I smoothed it anyway because the O-ring no doubt squishes into the hole as it passes so it might get tore up from a burr deeper in. Or just shoot it and see if it holds or not. Mine came with a #117 O-ring, which fits mine better than 116, but others say a 116 fits better. I suppose mfg variances between both the gun and O-ring will determine which works better for you. Testing for leaks is easy, just leave it pumped overnight then shoot it. There are also two O-rings on the valve, and one between the piston tube where it's crimped to the chamber assy.
You can do some improvement mods to them too, here's a link with some ideas: http://tinyurl.com/ntzmy4t I think #1 is a trigger job, but I also disabled the auto safety, blued all the chrome parts, and smoothed/lubed everything. Be sure your piston is bottoming out in the tube so you're not missing out on any air. Mine were fine but apparently some guns come up short. Be sure the breech end of the barrel is smooth and rounded enough at the bottom so it slides over the breech O-ring w/o damage. I rounded mine a bit more just to be safe and smoothed the surface finishing with 2000 sandpaper. Then dry lubed it with tungsten disulfide before wet lubing, which I do on all moving parts of all guns and virtually everything I own. I use regular Red n Tacky grease for most everything too, but mixed with syn motor oil and dry lube to thin it out and make it better.
I haven't had a need yet for maintenance oiling, but I'll probably use a drop of syn motor oil or tranny fluid. I think oiling every 1-200 shots is excessive, but if you turn the gun upside down for a while then dry fire it it will spit out any excess. If oil is allowed to build up in there it will have obvious drawbacks.
 
Chevota, since you've had yours torn down, can you explain why mine does what it does?

When it sits for awhile, the first time I pump it, it doesn't actually pump. I open it up and the stroke to close it is easy, like it's not pushing any air. Dry fire it, and open it up again, and it seems ok. But the first shot or two seem a touch weak, like it isn't pumping quite enough air. After that, all good. Why does it take several pumps to "wake up"?
 
ChaoSS, I know you asked Chevota, but I'm wondering?
Have you checked the air inlet hole for a burr inside the cylinder?
Have you checked the O ring on the piston?
Have you cleaned out the cylinder from any and all dirt and oil residue?
And have you lubed the piston/O ring with White Lithium or Lucas Red & Tacky grease?

To me it sounds like a dry system trying to work but unable to.

Also, a drop of mineral oil or non detergent 30W motor oil on the piston ever tin of pellets will do nothing but help. Any excess will get blown out with the compressed air. Synthetic motor oil as used in a vehicle is not recommended. I'm betting you have mineral oil, it's also known as Baby Oil with a very small amount of smell good stuff added, and NO it does not contain water.

I now have way more than 1,000 pellets thru mine.

Check out UTube, lots of info there regarding the P17.
Also check out sites dedicated to air guns and use their search function.

BTW, I've had mine torn down also, why?, because of what I've read before it arrivied.
 
I haven't torn mine down. It does have a reasonable amount of lubrication everywhere I can see. I haven't bothered to tear mine down because I figure that it's easy enough to do that I can fix seals later if they go bad. I'm just wondering why the first time doesn't pump any air, but follow up pumps do.

Just curiosity, really.

I should point out that I don't shoot mine much, the thing is loud as hell for something that shoots as slowly as it does.
 
Like I said
To me it sounds like a dry system trying to work but unable to.

You can not see to the bottom of the piston or the inside of the cylinder.

Unless of course you take the piston out.
 
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Chaoss: My first thought is you aren't opening the action all the way. If the piston is not pulled back far enough to uncover the port then no air for u. There's a slot where the shaft of the piston fits into when fully open, and it can take a little extra force to make it go in there, so it's easy to think it's fully open when it's not. Apparently a lot of people do this, and the extra effort to force it in was annoying to me so I sanded the slot slightly bigger and greased it so it goes in much easier. You could open it all the way so they're no friction, but it acts as a catch to hold it open while loading. A catch is not needed at all, but that's the choice I made. I'd start by simply greasing that spot and remembering to fully open it. Another issue that can happen is opening and closing it too quickly so the chamber doesn't fully fill with air. It just needs maybe 50thou/second (a guess), but my crony does show a loss if cycled too fast. TMI I suppose, the simple way is open it fully, load pellet, close.
As for why you only see it after it sits, maybe it's just your muscle memory? I dunno. Or of course you could have a completely different problem. Maybe you are doing your part and it's getting air, but it's going out the breech port when pumping. I'd put my ear close to that while pumping to listen for air. If that's the case then I'd say your valve is sticking for some reason. At rest uncocked the valve is held open by the trigger assy, when opening the action ~half way you can hear/feel it reset the trigger which allows the valve to close. If the valve is a little sticky then I suppose it's possible it won't close properly, and a cycle or two frees it up. The valve only closes under the pressure of its own little coil spring, but I think it would only hang if it had a defect. Or the trigger is what has the friction issue and it's not allowing the valve to close... My trigger has some friction but it was only adding to trigger pull. Play with it and let me know... I have one gun together, one completely apart, existing pictures and a camera for more if needed.
 
Well there you are now, have a few leads as to what's the matter.

I'm sure Chevota will be of more help as he can give you pictures etc. I'm old and have no idea how to do that. But then UTube has more information than one will ever need IMO.

http://anotherairgunblog.blogspot.com/2009/02/derricks-on-beeman-p17-overhaul-part-1.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=npFo4J4qRvE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RAIxXP_Yr5Q
http://www.network54.com/Forum/79537/thread/1279482490/Beeman+p17

This is just a start, in this case google is a friend.
 
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