Reproduction Colts, Which are Good?

Status
Not open for further replies.
wanderinwalker

wanderinwalker

Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2003
Messages
2,406
Location
SW NH
Okay all, just asking some questions to get a feel for what I am looking at. I've been fascinated by percussion revolvers since studying the Civil War in elementary school. I do shoot blackpowder, but it's a hunting rifle and not really a "just for fun" kind of thing.

The other day I was looking at the LGS and saw he had a bunch of Uberti-manufactured Colt replicas. I saw at least 2 1860s, an 1861 and I think a '62. Ever since I've been looking around online trying to learn more. Are these good quality?

I'm really expecting it to be a warm-day summer fun sort of hobby, so I don't expect to subject the revolver to a ton of shooting. At best 100-rounds or so a year, probably. But who knows, if it's fun (and cheap) it may get lots of use.

Also, what kind of charges do these pistols typically use? 10, 15, 20, 30 grains? At the moment I am leaning toward the .44-caliber, just because, even though the .36-caliber 1861 looks impossibly graceful to my eyes.

Thanks all, and I'm open to all suggestions, information and advice!
 
Powder Charge depends on the gun:

1. Pocket Models .31 or .36
2. Navy Models .36
3. Army Models .44

They will come with a manual giving recommendations - you can adjust your own, but it should be pretty close to MFG listings.

Good Ones:

1. I like the 2nd Generation Colts followed by the Signature Series Colts
2. Uberti and Pietta makes a good repro
3. Some like the Ruger Old Army if you can find one at a decent cost - not
historic, not a Colt repro, but good guns
4. ASM is a descent gun from what I hear
5. Stay away from Palmetto

I like a steel frame verses a brass frame. Brass tends to develop problems if you shoot full house loads - depends on how much you shoot. Steel has a better resale value.

Like anything else you get what you pay for.

Suggest you read the thread on this forum: "Black Powder Essentials" by 4v50 gary
 
I own a Ruger and think it is probably the best made in the world for the money. I have a Colt Dragoon A couple Ubertis, a few Piettas and a smattering of ASM and 3 Thirty one FIE. I can find nothing radically wrong with any. The Piettas have had to have some grip work as do the ASM brands. The ASM do not have the good bluing that are on the rest. Its basically, What do you like? Get it and enjoy it. I have fun with mine evbery day.
 
wanderinwalker:

For a lot of education for very little money, go to: (www.dixiegunworks.com) and buy a copy of their (about) 700-page catalog for only $5.00 - and I believe that may include shipping. They lose money on every copy they sell.

The book contains everything you need, and a lot of stuff you don't but might like to have. It is also filled with all kinds of information about anything you might think of. It's an easy way to learn a lot.
 
All good suggestions. I also agree with PRM's rankings.

Loads:
Frankly, I've found the 'owner's manuals' that come with the guns to be worthless when it comes to working loads for these guns. I get the feeling their obsessed with worries about overloads.

Bottom line: you cannot physically overload any of these revolvers - all will safely shoot all the powder you can stuff in the chamber under a ball. The steel framed guns can shoot such loads all day long. The brass framed guns will eventually be damaged by such abuse.

However, those 'maximum' loads are universally inaccurate. Each gun, regardless of brand, model and caliber, will need to be tested to find it's most accurate load. It can be said that the .31 and .36 caliber small frames ('baby' and 'pocket' models) will shoot best in the 10-20 grain (by volume) range, the medium frame .36's (Navys) will best use anywhere from 15-30 grains, the medium frame .44's (Armys) will like 20-35 grains and the large frame Dragoons and Walkers from 30 to 45 grains. In fact, I've had good results shooting 50 grains in my Uberti Walker, although I usually use 45 gr.
 
Bottom line: you cannot physically overload any of these revolvers - mykeal
Click to expand...

Agree, I started to say that, but was hesitant because one of my favorites is a Signature Series Walker. It will handle some pretty stout charges, but I shoot more moderate loads because I don't want to abuse my gun. The cylinders are shorter on the Navy, Army and Pocket models making that a non-issue. I have also found the heaviest charges not necessarily to be the most accurate. I generally start with suggested loads and work up or down in 3-5 grain increments until I get what I want.
 
For a lot of education for very little money, go to: (www.dixiegunworks.com) and buy a copy of their (about) 700-page catalog for only $5.00 - and I believe that may include shipping. They lose money on every copy they sell.

The book contains everything you need, and a lot of stuff you don't but might like to have. It is also filled with all kinds of information about anything you might think of. It's an easy way to learn a lot.
Click to expand...

Old Fuff, thanks for the link. I forgot about DGW. Looks like a catalogue is in order soon!

However, those 'maximum' loads are universally inaccurate. Each gun, regardless of brand, model and caliber, will need to be tested to find it's most accurate load. It can be said that the .31 and .36 caliber small frames ('baby' and 'pocket' models) will shoot best in the 10-20 grain (by volume) range, the medium frame .36's (Navys) will best use anywhere from 15-30 grains, the medium frame .44's (Armys) will like 20-35 grains and the large frame Dragoons and Walkers from 30 to 45 grains. In fact, I've had good results shooting 50 grains in my Uberti Walker, although I usually use 45 gr.
Click to expand...

mykeal, thanks for this as well. I was curious about this the most. While searching the 'Net I stumbled across something that suggested a "safe, maximum" load is 1/2 of caliber (ie 22-gr for .44-cal). Needed a fact-check on that, as it sounded a little off even to my limited B-P experience.

And to all others, thanks! I may take another look at those Ubertis at the LGS and see if one follows me home after Christmas. I already bought one gun that was supposed to be my present. Oh well. :rolleyes:

Oh, and my coworkers are going to keep telling me I need to get something high-capacity and semi-automatic. I'll just tell them fun should be a mandatory requirement for something not strictly needed. :cool:
 
When you get your toy, try the light loads fun, fun (did I mention cheap on your pocket). Document all your workup loads for reference on baseline of ball size weight, powder gns, etc.. I keep a shooting journal on all my toys, any problems that come up just reference back to it for loads, etc. I thought 6 rounds, thumb another was high capacity and semi-automatic. Bet in 3 months you can out shoot those guys. PeashooterJoe..
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top