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Resizing bulged brass, 10mm - Pic

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Too_Pure

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This is a 180 gr factory Remington 10mm round shot from a G20. It was bulged and this is the result of resizing. Is it safe to use for a starter load one more time while I wait for some Starline?
48d074bf-d7ff-7c67.jpg


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It looks like your using a carbide die and have it set too low which caused the "ring". Set the die higher and don't squeeze the base down so far, the alternative would be to resize with a normal die and lube your cases to get a graduated taper.

Lay a straight edge along the case and see if it is starting to be wasp waisted from your die and you will see what I mean.
 
Thanks.

If I raise the die won't the bulge just be higher up then? I'd just try it but I already sized it all.

I can see I'll need to be buying some higher quality brass though as these will not last long. I'm used to reloading .45. Never saw this before last night.
 
The Glock chamber leaves more of the case unsupported, hence the bulge. You have to remove the bulge to be able to reload the brass, however that will be a weak spot in that particular brass.

The advice in post #2 has nothing to do with the "Glock Bulge" that you're concerned about. Redding makes a .40 caliber push through sizer just for this issue. It's primarily for removing the bulge from .40 S&W brass, but will work just as well for 10mm brass. I personally use the Magma Case Master Jr. for sizing the entire case, including the rim, though it's a little pricey for the average reloader. Here's the link: http://magmaengineering.com/products/case-master-jr-rimless-case-sizer

Hope this helps.

Fred
 
The redding push-thru is a handy die to have. Just don't resize cases that were loaded too hot - toss those in the trash.
 
Too_Pure

If your case is bulged it will be a larger diameter than a unfired case at the base. If its just overly compressed you just raise the die, if you do not have a set of vernier calipers they will tell you a story about your problem.
 
I've been using the Redding GR-x push-thru die for all 10mm reloads. If your going to pick one up, I suggest getting the carbide version.
 
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TooPure,
In the late 80's I stopped using my carbide dies & bought Horndady Titanium Nitride sizers (& later, complete die sets) because I didn't like that ring. My Lee sizers were the offenders, and left a really noticeable ring. I acquired a Lyman carbide die in a trade not long ago, and it seems to be less offensive. Nonetheless, with the Hornady TiN dies there is no ring whatsoever and they are as slick as snake snot.

Just my 2 cents & experience.
 
A lot of my 40 reloads look like that, first time. Especially the ones that need to be push through sized. Subsequent reloads won't look so bad, as long as you keep your charges moderate. They'll fire form without excessive bulging, then they'll resize a bit more normal looking.

I don't see how you can fully resize a bulged case without leaving that indent, no matter what brand of dies. But that sure sounds nice, Maj Dad.
 
As long as my cases fit in my gun, I am not concerned about a bulge like that which may happen on the first factory shot fired. If it continues, then time to do something to change it.
 
Thanks for all the wisdom and experience. I'm new to reloading so I really appreciate replies. I'll continue with these reloads and see how they go this weekend.


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Nice to hear that your such an authority on the subject Rhino. When a die I pay for cost's you anything, then you can say it's a waste of money. Maybe.
I've used a GR-x die on 1000's of pcs of 10mm & 40 S&W brass and will continue to do so.
 
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Push-through sizing dies are stupid and are a waste of money. Just size your brass properly.
Click to expand...
Well, I can see the point you're trying to make. If I resize a bulged case (properly), it'll feed just fine in my guns, in practice. But it fails a chamber check under gravity. So I'm sure it would fail a proper cartridge case gauge, too.

So a waste of money depends on how anal you are and/or how tight the chamber on your gun is. If my gun's chamber was slightly sloppier, I'd never see a benefit from a push-thru die, theoretical or practical. If I were in this situation, I'd probably think a push-thru die was a waste of money, too. OTOH, a gun with a tight chamber may really need a push-thru die to restore bulged brass. That is, of course, unless your gun has full case support and you plan to sort and pick up your brass, and only your brass, when you go shooting at the range.

Now, another thing you can do if your (proper) resizing isn't quite cutting it is shave a bit of material off the top of your shell holder and/or the bottom of your die to get a fuller (more proper?) resize.
 
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i have a glock 20. i reload for it. i use the same brass over and over at medium to full power loads. split necks are the majority of the reason i toss brass and i havent never had one blow a case body or web. granted this is within a short time but its now in the 1000's of rounds.

so in short...use them.
 
My advice is make up a small quantity (~20) as a test batch and shoot them. Be on the lookout for proper feeding. If they don't feed properly you won't have that many to pull. I shoot a Taurus Millenium 40 S$W and if I don't use a push through die on brass fired in a gun other than mine I can have feed problems.

I use the Lee Crimp Die (carbide) with the guts removed. I cast my own bullets and bought a Lee 401 bullet sizer kit. It comes with a plunger that will push the brass up through the crimp die. Very handy and a lot less expensive than the Redding die. Even after using the push through die I still use a regular carbide sizer.
 
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