Restoring an old S&W Model 10

[Guns&Religion]

I have a gunsmithing question, and I'm going to try to ask hopefully without sounding like some inhertance watching vulture...

...Ok, here goes.

It's possible in the near future I may inherit my great grandfather's S&W Model 10. It's in pretty rough shape.

The nickel finish has flaked off in several places, and the inside of the barrel is badly pitted. I've fired it a couple of times years ago, on a trip to a gravel pit with my uncle, so I'm certain it's safe to use (with non +P loads). The accuracy is very bad though, I'm sure the rusted barrel has something to do with this.

How difficult or expensive is it to replace the barrel on a revolver like this. I've seen it done on other revolvers, but this one is old (I'm guessing WW2 or earlier) and I'm sure has never had the barrel removed. Can this be done, or is there another way to repair rifling on a barrel that's badly rusted?

The S&W website says they can put a new nickel finish on it for $250. It would be really nice though, if I could make the gun shoot straight again. I'm sure it may be expensive, but depending on the cost, it my be worth it to me to have it restored to original condition.

 

[BBBBill]

IF you can find a period correct barrel and IF you can find a smith with the correct tooling to remove/replace the barrel and IF you want it bad enough, sure. It's only money.
You need a barrel vise, action wrench, cup tip punches, tooling to face the barrel shoulder/breech end/forcing cone, and the skills/knowledge to do it correctly. It's not rocket science, but it does require a sustantial investment of money and time. It was worth it to me to do so just because I like those types of challenges. Only you can decide if it is worth it to you. As a start, get Jerry Kuhnhausen's book on S&W revolvers. Read it several times to see whether you want to go further.

 

[rcmodel]

I have seen some pretty sorry old barrels that shot pretty darn good.
Maybe get more leading then a nicer bore, but accuracy was not that much affected by pits and such.

My late fathers old Winchester 06 rifle barrel looks like the inside of a powerplant chimney.
But it will shoot 1 1/4" groups at 50 yards off a bench rest all day.

I'd clean the snot out of it with JB Bore Paste first.
Then more bench testing with different ammo or shooter is in order before you go for a barrel replacement? Assuming you could even find one.

If it isn't key-holing bullets at 25 yards it should be accurate enough for gobbermint work.

rc

 

[KosmicKrunch]

I have restored many S&W Liberty, Victory and M&P's... most are pre-cursors to the Model 10 and or a remake of the 1905.

Barrel wise - if actual pitted and keeping the same barrel, you can have it lapped to a .001 diameter increase. Then load your own ammo and use the correct size bullets for the barrel. If the forcing cone (the area of the barrel closest to the front of the cylinder) is not worn or pitted, you really do not need to do anything. The .38 special is a very foregiving round.

The more important areas are the cylinder end shake & cylinder timing. A trigger job is very easy on the older S&W.

As far as finish, the S&W re-nickle is very good but expensive. The average value of the older smiths is about $300 +/- $75 in shootable and good condition, not including finish.

There are other finishers just as good as S&W and are about 1/2 half the price. The pistol in it current condition will never be a collectors piece. Since it has family history value, there is no real reason to get it refinished. The finish will not make it shoot better or worse.

If you have avail of a range that rents pistol shooting vises. Shoot 18 rounds at the same target placed at 25 feet, noting placement of each shot aka #1, #2 etc penned next to the bullet hole. You are not at this point looking for target placement accuracy, you are looking for grouping ability. If your groups are no bigger than 3", the grouping is ok. Now, look at the cases... are there any splits, punched through primers, case head shoulder swelling, black (burnt) areas around the case wall. If any of these are present, there are specific fixes for them.

If none of these are present, I honestly say leave it be, keep it clean and shoot it as is.

If the groupings are larger than the 3", then have the barrel lapped. Do not have the cylinder lapped. If the rifling needs to be re-cut, then they will do that at the same time it is lapped.

A barrel change out is not hard, but it is very specific and needs very special tools for barrel setback among other things. I honestly say, do a barrel change out as a last resort.

In the end, if no serious mechanical issues.... keep it as is, shoot it often, use some copper jacketed bullets once in a while. If parts, barrel or service is needed, there are a host of gun smiths that can handle the job. Some are pricey and some like myself and others with in this forum are very reasonable.

The finish, I say leave it alone unless there is rust under the nickle. older nickle will flake if the metal below it starts to patina (not rust) from inside out.

It is YOUR revolver and to do or not to do is your decision. Have fun with it as those old S&W are built like tanks.

Also, go to the S&W site, fill out the form for a History letter of your serial number (cost is $50) and a geentleman named Roy Jinks, will send you a letter of when it was made, who it was sold to first as way of a dealer and other really cool info.

As RC said, clean the barrel with JB Bore Paste (available at Brownells) and also get a lewis lead remover, also avail at Brownells. Once cleaned, have a slug made of the barrel, have it measured and if possible, load ammo or have ammo loaded to the correct bore diameter (about $22 a box of 50 from many-many loading folks).

Do not ever shoot +P or +P+ ammo from it, it is just not made for it.

I would rec shooting a 148 LSWC (lead semi wad cutter) that is sized to your bore and very well lubed. Make them a mild or mid range load. Never use or have others load with magnum primers. When using a copper jacketed bullet, use a standard Police load of 158gr FMJ (full metal jacket). The Police loads are what this pistol was made for.

Do not worry about having an "Ugly Duckling," as long as it is safe and is in good mechanical condition. The pictures of the S&W is a 1926 M&P that I made sure is mechanically correct, did a trigger job on it and is one of the more fun S&W's I own.

All of this just in my humble opinion.