Revo cylinder cleaning question...

[Drew78]

Hello-

I shoot quite a bit of .38's through my .357 mag Ruger LCR. I can clearly see some build up starting from all of the .38's in each cylinder.

Is there a good method of removing that fouling aside from the old solvent and bronze brush method?

I was wondering about using some CLP type of oil and some '0000' steel wool around a brass bore jag followed up by some flitz polish on some patches. All by hand, no drills or dremels. Strokes would be with each cylinder, not rotary, hence the no drills ect...

I have not done this yet, just thinking out loud.

I welcome any feedback regading this matter.

Thanks in advance~

-Drew

 

[Packman]

I didn't quite catch it from your post, but I've never had any problem with buildup in any of my guns...However, I clean them religiously after EVERY shooting session. I'm a tad obsessive. That alone with stop it.

As long as you're not rotating it at high speeds, I don't see how steel wool would hurt anything. It's softer than the bronze brush, in my estimation. It'll deform more.

Good luck!

 

[Ruger GP100 fan]

I encountered that problem a couple of weeks ago. Shot 100 rounds of 38SP,then loaded some 357s and one round would not drop far enough in the cylinder to clear the frame.

 

[Drew78]

I clean all my weapons before I leave the range. Now THAT is obssessive! I am just lovin this LCR and don't have much experience with proper maint on revos. A 357 will still drop in w/o issue btw on this gun.

I usually only use a brass bore jag, weapon shield clp, and patches for the cyl and bore. I don't "scrub" with a brush much. Maybe I should start after each session.

Just kinda thought my process as outlined in my OP would clean the 38 buildup REALLY well and actually impart a adhock polish job in each cyl too...

-Drew

 

[dawico]

A drill with a copper brush and some Hoppe's #9 is my solution. The cylinder is so much harder than the brush that I don't worry about any damage.

 

[LawofThirds]

Yeah, a good stout bronze brush and a solvent are completely safe for your cylinder, why even bother risking the steel wool.

For a really good clean I've had good luck using a 10mm/.40/.41 brush in a drill, the extra diameter really gets the entire chamber, just don't try to shove it all the way through.

 

[DickM]

I shoot reduced loads made up in .357 brass through all my .357s specifically to avoid this problem, so I don't have any personal experience with this, but I'm told . . .

If you reload or have access to someone who does, have them take a .357 case and flare the end in their expanding die so you can just barely (with a bit of force) chamber it, then force it forward all the way and it will scrape the fouling out. The brass, being much softer than gun steel, will not harm the chamber. Then you can clean out the last bit, if you want, with the traditional brush and solvent.

 

[squarles67]

I take a .357 mag case and flare the mouth until it just fits in the cylinder, then push it in and out to scrape out the crud just like above. Works good for me YMMV.

 

[Whole Hog]

Use a .40 caliber Tornado brush. It's too large for the bore, but works great for cleaning .357 chambers.

 

[Matt 357]

I went to an indoor range over the weekend to rent and try out the Ruger LCR. Rented the gun and the guy said we usually sell 38 shorts (never heard of them before) for folks renting that gun. I said no thanks, I want to try it out with 38 special rounds and bought a box of 38 special. I had a feeling I would run into the situation of the original poster. Sure enough, as I went to load it, the rounds would not go in all the way. Called one of the staff over. He spent about 5 minutes trying to clean it out. Eventually he was able to chamber the 5 rounds. I had a feeling that after firing the brass would not eject. Sure enough bang, bang, bang, bang, bang, crap! Called the staff over. He was unable to eject. I told him to forget it. I'll come back another time. There was no charge. At least I got to squeeze off a few at no charge. What really ticked me off, is that the place was empty. No one in the store or the 5 lane range. While the 3 staff are sitting there chatting, they should be inspecting and cleaning the range guns!

I shoot 38 special and 357 mag in my GP-100. Usually 50/50. I clean it when I get home and have had no problems loading or ejecting.

 

[rcmodel]

A cordless drill, bronze bore brush on a short section of cleaning rod, and a tuft of 0000 (Extra Fine) steel wool wound on the brush, with powder solvent.

Takes about 5 seconds per chamber to clean a cylinder spotless.

No, it won't hurt the cylinder!!

It's an old gunsmiths trick older then I am.
And I'm old!

rc