Revolver barrel/cylinder gap.

[bg226]

First, what are the S&W specs for barrel/cylinder gap?

Second, my other issue:

I notice that the gap is on an angle and this only allows the gauges to enter from one side, and they stop in the middle, not completely going through the gap. Sort of like a cone if that makes sense. However, when i hold it up to the light, I am certain that there is a through and through gap on each charge hole, and it's not crud.

For example: A single charge hole in the cylinder measures .004, but the gauge stops half way and only fits when inserted from the left side. When I try to stick it in from the other side it will not fit at all. The gaps are not parallel, but more on an angle.:banghead:

 

[Old Fuff]

What's "to specifiation" seems to change over time. I have seen gaps run from .003" to as much as .011" on some older guns that were intended to be used with lead bullets.

The problem with the gap in your revolver is because the end of the barrel isn't square. When the final assembler "adjusted" the gap he filed the end of the barrel, and didn't get it square. If you have a tight gap this might be corrected by a gunsmith or S&W's repair department. Otherwise the barrel should be set back and then corrected.

Brownells offers a cutter that has a pilot that fits the bore, and this insures that the barrel face will be square.

 

[runninmike]

I agree with Old Fuff on this one.
And I think "optimum" gap is .004" to .006" on most revolvers. If they get too close, they need cleaning sooner(no big prob), if too big, then they are very loud and lose too much gas. If yours is very close, you may be able to square it down and have the forcing cone redone reasonably.
I had an H&R M949 revolver in .22lr that was loud as a .22 mag due to a huge gap.
Best-MC