Cylinder binding problem .002 gap too tight?

[madcratebuilder]

I seem to recall the feeler gauge that comes with Dan Wesson revolvers was/is 0.006".

It depends on what model. My 15-2's have a .006 gap gauge. My 740VS has a .002 gap gauge. I have run as tight as .001 on the 740 and did not have any drag until the third set of six rounds. I run my 15-2's at .004 and have never had any drag.

To run these tight gaps the cylinder has to be true. A runout of .001-.002 well cause you problems when you tighten it up.

 

[oldfool]

depends on what you do with your gun, of course, need not be an either-or

I have a pair of S&W k-17s, one TH/TT with 0.002 gap, the other with 0.0045-0.005 gap
Which one I pack in the range bag (sometimes both) depends on my intent
The tight one is good for 5 to 6 dozen rounds before binding; then must rub down the cylinder face with CLP patch, good to go again; the other is good for a full brick or more "as is"

both "less filling, taste great".. shoot straight, run smooth, slow or fast

JK and madcrate both know 'precisely' what they are doing, and why
both comments very much on target, know your gun and your target

doesn't hurt to own more than one gun, just pay attention to what you carry on your hip, and what you carry only to the range

 

[Cemo]

I don't understand why a binding issue is just now popping up on a Security Six unless it is lead build up, which a good cleaning should cure. I've had binding issues with two Rugers, a GP100 and a .22 Single Six Convertible. In both cases as the gun heated up and the cartridge case heads would bind as you tried to rotate the cylinder. I found there was a lack of clearance on the rear of the frame window (Recoil Shield) near the bottom. A little metal removal and polishing on the bottom of the recoil shield cured the binding issue.

 

[elano]

Alright yall here's a happy ending!

I scrubbed the forcing cone and cylinder face squeeky clean. Made it 100 round without binding up!

Thanks to all who replied.

 

[fastbolt]

As others have already suggested, call Ruger and let them have a chance to examine it and correct anything they feel requires correction.

Just because you may have observed an apparent symptom with your revolver, that doesn't mean you've correctly identified the underlying problem.

Barrel/cylinder gap tolerance may vary among different designs and models, depending on the manufacturer. In the S&W revolver armorer class they tell armorers that the recommended B/C gap ought to be within .004 - .010", and the Go/No-Go feeler gauges provided to check it are those dimensions. The gap is checked by inserting the narrow feeler gauge from the frame side (left side, as the muzzle is pointing away from you), at the top of the gap.

I've had a brand new S&W come with a rather tight .004 gap, with minimal (but necessary) endshake, and exhibit some signs of the cylinder face hitting against the edge of the barrel at times. Checking several of my other S&W revolvers of various vintage, they seem to run around .005 - .008" ... and they all shoot very well. Doesn't it just figure that the newest production one would have a tight B/C gap?

I've not felt like checking my Ruger Service-Six or SP101 using feeler gauges, since they shoot so well (and I had one of them "duty tuned" by a very reputable gunsmithing company back when I was carrying it a lot off-duty). I had a problem with the SP101 cylinder "seizing" as the gun heated up, and after consulting with a LE revolver armorer (before I became a revolver armorer), it turned out the actual underlying condition had nothing to do with the B/C gap, but was a burred part encountering another part when they heated up. Once I relieved that burred spot ... and dressed the corresponding burr caused on the other part ... the "seizing problem" occurring when a few cylinder loads of hot Magnum ammo was fired was resolved.

I'd let the company have first chance at examining it. If they decline to check it, then I'd look around for a reputable gunsmith familiar with Ruger revolvers to check it.

Just my thoughts.

 

[hardluk1]

hay way to go back and running fine.