RIA 1911

[JTQ]

I’m a little lost on the difference between my grip safety and a beaver tail safety. Need to do a little reading.

See the one you have and then look at the one 3Crows has pictured.

3Crows has a beavertail grip safety. The RIA GI gun, that you have doesn't come with a beavertail grip safety, it has a GI grip safety.

The shape of the beavertail sweeps up, the GI grip safety shape sweeps down.

 

[hawg]

A new RIA should be torn completely down and the shipping grease cleaned from every nook and cranny. That stuff is a rust preventative not a lube. I bought my RIA A1 FS Tactical in 2011. All I did was change the grips and mag. It has not missed a beat. It runs anything I put in it. I tried a lot of different rounds when I first got it and it didn't hiccup on any of it. It even feeds empty cases with CMC mags. It gets a steady diet of home cast SWC's now with a few boxes of Tula steel cased now and then. RIA is the best bang for the buck. Mine is parkerized and looked chalky when I first got it but a few rub downs with ATF made it look pretty good for parked. This is how it looked when it was new with the grip and mag change. It came with a polished feed ramp, throated chamber and a beveled mag well. The front sights on the tactical models are dovetailed. The front sights on the GI model are staked. The rear sight on the tactical look like Novak but aren't. They also have a proprietary dovetail cut. Dawson Precision makes sights that will fit those dovetails.



This is after a few ATF rub downs.

 

[dh1633pm]

We have a 1911 Springfield Armory. My wife loves the 1911. We had an instructor come over to the house to teach her all about the 1911 and then take her to the range. The instructor was retired Army. She used to train small arms for the Army. My wife and her got along great. We invited her to drive up to Fort Drum with us in January, it was fun having her along. Anyhow, I was looking a buying a second and the RIA in on the short list. That way my wife and I can shoot the same type pistol at the same time.

 

[Jimster]

Love my Rock.

 

[md7]

RIA owners and shooters tend to be pleased with their 1911’s, and I think you will also. Congrats on the purchase my friend, and welcome to the rabbit hole that is the 1911.

My advice, spend time with the gun in stock form to see what you like or don’t like. Time and rounds down range can be helpful in choosing upgrades, if that is applicable. You’ll know after after a few hundred rounds, if not sooner!

Spend some time watching reputable 1911 videos on YouTube (Wilson, 10-8 performance, etc) and learn things like extractor tension. Most suggest changing recoil springs every 3,000 rounds. Make sure you use good mags, and verify function in your pistol with the ammo you use. Not all 1911’s and mags jive. Some do, some don’t it seems like to me.

@JTQ mentioned drop in parts and he is 100% right. Expect to do some fitting here and there to make aftermarket parts work on your pistol. It’s just the way it is on 1911’s.

Lastly, I would say that 1911’s don’t necessarily have to be white glove clean to run, but I do think they work better when wet. Hit those slide rails with lube more than you would on something like a Glock.

There are several here on THR that are a goldmine for 1911 knowledge. JTQ knows some things, @bannockburn, @Skylerbone, @tark and others.

Whenever those guys start talking, I generally just pull up a seat and start listening!

 

[CapnMac]

One of these can come in handy:

Now, a machinist with access to tools can also make a front sight staking tool, if they are keen to use staked front sights versus dovetailed ones.

 

[hawg]

RIA owners and shooters tend to be pleased with their 1911’s, and I think you will also. Congrats on the purchase my friend, and welcome to the rabbit hole that is the 1911.

My advice, spend time with the gun in stock form to see what you like or don’t like. Time and rounds down range can be helpful in choosing upgrades, if that is applicable. You’ll know after after a few hundred rounds, if not sooner!

Spend some time watching reputable 1911 videos on YouTube (Wilson, 10-8 performance, etc) and learn things like extractor tension. Most suggest changing recoil springs every 3,000 rounds. Make sure you use good mags, and verify function in your pistol with the ammo you use. Not all 1911’s and mags jive. Some do, some don’t it seems like to me.

@JTQ mentioned drop in parts and he is 100% right. Expect to do some fitting here and there to make aftermarket parts work on your pistol. It’s just the way it is on 1911’s.

Lastly, I would say that 1911’s don’t necessarily have to be white glove clean to run, but I do think they work better when wet. Hit those slide rails with lube more than you would on something like a Glock.

There are several here on THR that are a goldmine for 1911 knowledge. JTQ knows some things, @bannockburn, @Skylerbone, @tark and others.

Whenever those guys start talking, I generally just pull up a seat and start listening!

What he said. I personally do not like the ACT mags that come with them. I Use flush mount CMC Shooting Stars but any good quality mag should be trouble free. I say should be. I use white lithium grease on my slide rails.

 

[JCSC]

I didn’t care for the mag sticking down, but figured that was the 8th round?


Aren’t most GI models 7?

 

[md7]

I didn’t care for the mag sticking down, but figured that was the 8th round?


Aren’t most GI models 7?

GI type mags are/were 7 round, single stack mags. Flush at the bottom.

 

[hawg]

I didn’t care for the mag sticking down, but figured that was the 8th round?


Aren’t most GI models 7?

They do make 8 round flush fit. The pad on the bottom on most mags is just a bumper. I hate them and wont own one.

 

[3Crows]

They do make 8 round flush fit. The pad on the bottom on most mags is just a bumper. I hate them and wont own one.

The eight round flush fit magazines are really tight when fully loaded, especially when new. I prefer the slightly longer true eight round magazines and the spring is not as compressed and IMO they are more reliable equal to the original seven round magazines, I claim no expertise, just preference. The plastic bumper on most is optional and easily removed to expose the metal bottom plate. I like having it for range work because so many tables are concrete and it protects the magwell/butt from damage or scratching. I use an eight round magazine(s) without the bumper for carry.

 

[3Crows]

See the one you have and then look at the one 3Crows has pictured.

3Crows has a beavertail grip safety. The RIA GI gun, that you have doesn't come with a beavertail grip safety, it has a GI grip safety.

The shape of the beavertail sweeps up, the GI grip safety shape sweeps down.

Mine came with the GI style grip safety. While I prefer the traditional look I found two issues with my large hands. One, the GI tang bit into the skin between my thumb and forefinger. Two, my hands have a deep cup and the low profile of the GI grip safety would not reliably release without having to purposely squeeze hard to release it. The bit of arthritis does not help either. So I got the WC grip safety. That particular one does not require modifying the gun to fit so it is fully reversible. I also added the WC trigger, mag release, sear and some other WC parts, mostly as a learning exercise. The mag release and the trigger and the sear and beaver tail did require some fitting.

 

[AlexanderA]

Everything I read says this GI model is compatible with most everything.

The RIA "GI" model isn't really GI (if by "GI" you mean the gun that was issued during WW2 and thereafter). However, the frame is a good starting point if you want to build a GI clone. (The slide is no good because the ejection port is lowered and the sights are wrong.)

Here's what I did with mine. Luckily I had a Colt replacement slide, barrel, and other parts lying around.



And here are all the leftover RIA parts that could not be used in the clone:



Note: This gun actually started out as a 9 mm version. That's why you see the 9 mm magazine and ejector.

I said that the frame could be used to make a GI clone. The one caveat there is that the RIA frame has a beveled magazine well. This is not something that would be readily noticed.

If you want to make a clone but do not have the required parts on hand, the more economical alternative would be to use the Thompson / Kahr GI model as the starting point. (That has a usable slide, for one thing.) But note that the Thompson / Kahr has the Series 80 firing pin safety, something that the RIA does not.

 

[hawg]

The eight round flush fit magazines are really tight when fully loaded, especially when new. I prefer the slightly longer true eight round magazines and the spring is not as compressed and IMO they are more reliable equal to the original seven round magazines, I claim no expertise, just preference. The plastic bumper on most is optional and easily removed to expose the metal bottom plate. I like having it for range work because so many tables are concrete and it protects the magwell/butt from damage or scratching. I use an eight round magazine(s) without the bumper for carry.

The bumper on ACT mags that come with them are also the floor plate. I use 8 round CMC flush mount but I only load 7. I don't shoot at a range. I shoot on dirt but even if I did shoot on concrete and accidently dropped one I wouldn't worry about scratches.

 

[3Crows]

The bumper on ACT mags that come with them are also the floor plate. I use 8 round CMC flush mount but I only load 7. I don't shoot at a range. I shoot on dirt but even if I did shoot on concrete and accidently dropped one I wouldn't worry about scratches.

It is not the magazines I do not want to damage but the butt of the pistol grip. No big deal, I get what you are saying. My KimPro magazines have a metal plate under the optional bumper pad.

 

[JCSC]

These guns run like a sewing machine, but boy they suck to disassemble. Did a full strip on the first one last night. Lots of parts and I’ll need to watch a video for reassembly. I’m doing cerakote this weekend, so needed a full strip.

had the firing pin launch out, hit my bench light and vanish. Mind you, I reload in a smaller closet, so it’s there somewhere, but I’ll damned if I can find it yet.

 

[doubleh]

I have owned two and they were OK guns. Did what they were supposed to with no problems.

 

[hawg]

These guns run like a sewing machine, but boy they suck to disassemble. Did a full strip on the first one last night. Lots of parts and I’ll need to watch a video for reassembly. I’m doing cerakote this weekend, so needed a full strip.

had the firing pin launch out, hit my bench light and vanish. Mind you, I reload in a smaller closet, so it’s there somewhere, but I’ll damned if I can find it yet.

 

[Skylerbone]

Shown with GI grip safety, then beaver tail, then fitting process.

Original configuration


From the back end.


Now with beaver tail.


Again with beaver tail.


GI hammer bobbed to allow clearance.


Cut tangs using jig for guide.


Shape.


Blend.


More shaping.


More blending.

 

[JCSC]

Thanks Skyler! Excellent description of the changes.

 

[Skylerbone]

I’ve thrown in more than the allotted .02 but I’ll stand behind anyone who previously suggested that modifying a GI pistol is not money as well spent on an upgrade.

The above pistol belonged to my father, who after succumbing to arthritis, dropped it off one day and told me to do what I wished with it. Several hundred dollars and many file hours later it still needs sights replaced as he previously swapped the tenoned Colt for a fiber optic that shoots combat style (target obscured, also known as waaay too low in my hands).

Figure in the several hundred more for cutting dovetails and new sights and anything short of it being a family memento makes it money not so well spent. Old school smiths spent a good deal of time modifying 1911s mainly because they came factory in MOL one flavor, GI. The modern renaissance age for JMB’s beloved pistol can spell a whole lot fewer headaches direct from the box.

Something to ponder as you consider the list of wants. Now if I were a machinist…I’d be all over these projects, price be damned! The journey is worth it if you stay on the path.


Lowered ejection port. Note that in conjunction with this, you’ll need a new long-nose ejector and a means of removing/replacing the tiny pin holding it in (some are simply LocTited in place).


Replacement rear sight. I may add a dab of Devcon Plastic Steel in the notch and forego slide sight milling for now, but it will lock in the Allen screw something fierce.


Side view of the port.


A small sample of bills to expect.


Fresh parts.


Newly fitted barrel bushing and long nose spring plug.


Leftovers you’ll have to eat.

 

[nofendertom]

Skylerbone --- Is that new rear sight taller than the stock sight?

 

[Skylerbone]

Skylerbone --- Is that new rear sight taller than the stock sight?

Taller but the notch is located at equal elevation to the original. Because of the fiber optic replacement being taller than the original front sight, the pistol is canted downward, thus shooting low.

 

[wayneinFL]

Is the beavertail good for anything except to keep people like me with old fat hands from getting hammer bite?

 

[Skylerbone]

Is the beavertail good for anything except to keep people like me with old fat hands from getting hammer bite?

It will allow a higher grip on the pistol, leaving your hand closer to the bore axis which in turn aids in reducing muzzle flip. It should be noted however that it in no wise alters the position of the trigger and its associated guard so consider this before changing or look to find a model with a relief cut (or cut your own).

Without front strap relief.


Front strap with high cut relief.