Rifle won't chamber reloads

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I've been reloading since 1982. I never once needed a "gauge" as I always made up a dummy round to ensure it would chamber, and I would measure just how far off the lands my bullet is, and would make sure that the OAL would allow the cartridge to fit in the magazine well, feed reliably and smoothly, etc. and fit into any magazines I am using.

I guess some might say I learned the old fashion way. I do, however, trim my rifle cases EVERY time I reload! The cases are always trimmed to exact minimum prescribed length.

I saw a guy once who had reloaded .243 cartridges. He nearly had to get a hammer out to close the bolt on his bolt-action .243. Little did he know that he may have been "wedging" the case mouth tightly into the bullet, which, in return, would create high pressures from the wedged bullet that is not just set in place by neck tension but is now in place just like if you used a VICE on it! :what:

Scary stuff when people reload and do not know what they are doing! All they would have to do is read one good reloading manual from front to back and they would have probably EVERY caution in there that they need. Go into it haphazardly or willy-nilly, and DANGEROUS things can happen, not to mention ruining a decent rifle and possibly loosing fingers, hand(s), eyesight, etc.
 
He may be, but a case gauge isn't really needed if loading for just one rifle. Just use the chamber as a gauge.

The gauge is however, very handy if one wants those rounds to fit any gun with an acceptable chamber without needing to check them in any gun.
 
Would taking some material off the shell holder achieve the same results?
Weakens the shell holder.
In theory, yes. But we’re not talking about enough to make a structural difference. It’s only a few thousands.
Yes, but that would affect all dies used with that shell holder. Better to modify the die, after making absolutely sure that it is needed.
Thanks to Mr. Lee, I’ve got shell holders to spare, and a shell holder is easy to modify with the simple hand tools - sandpaper and a flat surface. I get your point, though.
If the altered shell holder is kept with the die set and only used with it, no problem. But use it with another caliber on down the road and you could have grossly excess headspace.
I keep my shell holder with the die, locked up in it’s own box. There’s even a little place for it. Just by looking at it, it’s easy to tell the shell holder has been modified. You’re right about the potential for excess headspace IF that shell holder ever escaped to the general population.

I had a problem with a 6x45 die set for a rebarreled Mini-14. Fixed it long ago by filing down the shell holder. Just checking to make sure there wasn’t some unforeseen issue that hadn’t occurred to me. If I ever sell this combo I WILL file down the die. Thanks everyone.
 
I and my brother have a .30-06 we load for, as well as two of his sons and our father. That's five different rifles. Only two are the same manufacterer. We'd probably do well to go ahead and get it.
 
Got the problem fixed. I started trimming everything, even if it was once fired. We got a set of calipers and they were a little long. I never dreamed .004" could make such a difference, but it sure did. Trimmed some cases to length and viola, they chambered perfectly. Thanks for all your help. You guys are awesome.
 
Good

RoccoBro, he's actually my brother, so he's ribbing himself. lol We're learning this reloading gig together and having a blast. I guess you learn by making a few mistakes.
AP -
After years of experience, I can tell you that brothers will slow you down faster than anything. :D Glad you're having fun and don't mind the setbacks along the road. You did the right thing by NOT trying to force the cartridge into the chamber.


And we're buying calipers and a headspace gauge very soon.
Exactly correct. There is no way to tell if a case or cartridge will fit into your chamber without measuring it. Anything else you hear is an old wives tale.

First and foremost in the measuring arsenal is the caliper. May I suggest you look at buying an electronic "digital" caliper, since they have an easy-to-read digital screen, that people who are unaccustomed to making high-accuracy measurements will find as a huge advantage. With calipers you can measure your brass length and finished cartridge OAL.

Hope this helps!
 
Invest in a good Caliper, fits all, and your chamber is a vary good case gage for your rifle. Load to fit it.
I set a marked dummy round aside for each one and log the case length and COAL with each type of bullet used in the fire arm.
Enjoy
 
And being new to reloading, NEVER MODIFY A DIE. If there is a problem with a die, every mfg. will gladly replace a bad die at no cost.
 
You heard it before, but it is true: make a dummy round. If that round chambers, then make a small batch of rounds the exact same way. They will work if you keep everything constant. If the first rounds work, then your only real worries will be how hot a load you want. If you have factory ammunition handy, watch how it slides easily into the chamber. Your dummy round should work the same way. I learned all this the hard way and it will remain fresh in my mind.

I have a friend who actually makes TWO dummy rounds, because he's worried the first one might be "luck." I think this is overdoing it, but he's a darn good shooter.
 
A round that won't let the bolt close isn't chambered. The only reason cartridiges won't chamber is they are too big. A FL die pretty well insures the diameter isn't too large. An improperly adjusted FL die can leave the shoulder too far forward. Screw that die down another 1/8th turn, at the most, and all is likely to be well.

Second thing, and you've learned it quick, is check for fit. Always test chamber hunting ammo before you leave home with it, every round. And zero the rifle WITH THAT AMMO, if you expect to shot big game further away than maybe 40 yards anyway.
 
That's something else that happened. The die wasn't set properly. It was only sizing about half the neck. There was a slight bevel halfway between the end of the cartridge and the neck. I turned the die 1/8 of a turn and it worked perfectly. I've learned a lot and no doubt have much more to learn but we are having a blast. You guys have helped a lot too. The manuals are great for specs and basic info but there is no substitute for real experience. Thanks.
 
There was a slight bevel halfway between the end of the cartridge and the neck. I turned the die 1/8 of a turn
Well, it still isen't adjusted to FL size then.

All you are doing after the 1/8 turn more is partially neck-sizing enough to get it in the chamber.

It seems correct FL sizing die adjustment has already been covered in the thread several times.
Here is one.
http://www.thehighroad.org/showpost.php?p=6045973&postcount=22

You need to start over and adjust your sizing die to contact the shell holder, then another 1/8 turn or so to take out all press slop & flex.
Make it so the ram toggle "bumps" over at full stroke and you will be FL sizing.

Right now, from your discreption of it, you are not.

rc
 
That's something else that happened... 1. I turned the die 1/8 of a turn and it worked perfectly. 2. I've learned a lot and no doubt have much more to learn but we are having a blast. 3. You guys have helped a lot too.

Oh sure! Oh yea! Put us, your best buddies, in 3rd place.

At the end of it all, you probably won't even fax us a beer !

Probably forgot our names already !

:neener:
 
rcmodel, I adjusted the die until is touched the shell holder and turned it another 1/4 turn. That's when the beveling occured. I adjusted the die another 1/8 turn and it worked. That's why I thought I was getting a full length size. It was the second time I had adjusted it. It's working fine now and I took it out yesterday and got pretty good groups. Do I need to go full length? I thought you only had to size the neck on bolt actions.

Oh, and rfwobbly, I was just saving the best for last brother.
 
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