Rightee-tightee

[ROK'N THUNDER]

I have a S&W pre-model 10 that the extractor rod came loose on. I tried hand tightening but it loosened again. So I decided to take it apart and watched a video. I purchased some Loctite and tightened it. It seems to have worked out fine. The videos that I watched said S&W extractor rods are reverse trended but mine is right tight. Anyone know what's the deal?
Confused

 

[Jim Watson]

Smith changed from right to left threads on the extractor rod so shooting the gun would not loosen it at what I recall as the -1 engineering change.
A "Pre xx" predates the change by 5-10 years.
Details in SCSW.

 

[Driftwood Johnson]

Howdy

Pre-Model 10 is not a very exact term. Technically the only Pre-Model 10s are the 38 Military and Police (Postwar) revolvers that were made from 1946 until S&W changed over to model numbers in 1957.

But a lot of folks call any 38 Military and Police made from 1899 until 1957 a Pre-Model 10. Some call any 38 Military Police from 1905 until 1957 a Pre-Model 10.

In any case, S&W changed the extractor rod screw from right hand to left hand with the Model 10-2 in 1961. So any 38 M&P or Model 10 made before 1961 will have a right hand thread on the extractor rod.

 

[ROK'N THUNDER]

Howdy

Pre-Model 10 is not a very exact term. Technically the only Pre-Model 10s are the 38 Military and Police (Postwar) revolvers that were made from 1946 until S&W changed over to model numbers in 1957.

But a lot of folks call any 38 Military and Police made from 1899 until 1957 a Pre-Model 10. Some call any 38 Military Police from 1905 until 1957 a Pre-Model 10.

In any case, S&W changed the extractor rod screw from right hand to left hand with the Model 10-2 in 1961. So any 38 M&P or Model 10 made before 1961 will have a right hand thread on the extractor rod.

That hit the nail on the head. The serial # puts it at about 56,it's also a 4 screw.
Thanks

 

[Driftwood Johnson]

That really is a Pre-Model 10. According to SCSW the upper side plate screw was deleted in 1955, making it a Four Screw. The screw in front of the trigger guard was deleted with the Model 10-4 in 1962, making all Model 10s Three Screw guns after that.

 

[BobWright]

Well, Driftwood, I'm not so well versed on S&W revolvers. I'm one among the flock that always considered any Military and Police K-Framed .38 Special as a "Pre-Model 10" that was made prior to this new Model Number system.
Would you kindly explain the difference?

O.K. so a Military and Police that lacks the short DA mechanics is not a "Pre-Model 10" then what is it? And what about the Model 1950 Military, etc.?

Bob Wright

 

[AZAndy]

I have a 10 no dash that was threaded so that it would come loose while firing. Our friend Mr. Johnson, seen above in this thread, suggested I put fingernail polish on the threads, so I did. Been fine ever since.

 

[Eddietruett]

I hope you used blue locktite. You can remove blue but red can be a bear to remove if you need to. Most of the time it requires heat and lots of stregnth

 

[ROK'N THUNDER]

I hope you used blue locktite. You can remove blue but red can be a bear to remove if you need to. Most of the time it requires heat and lots of stregnth

Purple Loctite it hasn't loosened after 250 rounds.
Thanx