Rogers & Spencer shoots high

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wurfless

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Hi ya'll,
Just got a good deal on an unfired Cabelas (Euroarms) Rogers & Spencer with a BD date code. 1994 I think. Cleaned out the heavy shipping grease and took it to the range Sunday. Love the gun, but it shoots about 6 inches high @ 25 yds. and almost 12 inches high @ 50 yds. Shooting .454 rb (shaves nice ring) with wonderwads. Various loads of Goex fffg from 15 gr. to 28 gr. seemed to make little difference. :confused:
Gun has a screw-in brass bead front sight. Am looking for a taller front sight.
ANY OTHER IDEAS ??
 
Try to screw out the front sight.
See what the thread is, make a new taller sight.
Or;
Glue a sight extension on it and go shooting?
Or;
Remove old sight, file dovetail across barrel, buy and drift in a front blade sight and file down to correct profile.
Or;
Get used to it and aim a little low.
That's what comes to mind from me.
 
I tried the taller front post, but to get it high enough, meant problems with unholstering it cause of grab. I figured eventually it would bend or break off, so I went with a dove tail, it looks and works great. Also it shoots POA!!
R&SFauxIvory.jpg
 
Right ON!
I have a replica Eli Whitney 36 cal that needs the same. In my case, the barrel is threaded into the frame with ever so little lean to the left. A dovetail front sight could get her shooting straight.
By the way, that front sight looks natural on your piece.
 
ShipChief, My R&S also had a canted barrel, I have an excellent gunsmith that specializes in bp revolvers, he's the one who installed the dovetail, after straightening the barrel to frame misalignment and also, lapped out my barrel where it was constricted from the stamping. Over on the "voy" forum, he's Wayne, but I could hook you up with him if you'd like.
 
sltm1;
How much was it? I'm not to worried about the Eli, because the trigger guard seems a little small for my finger, so I only shoot it rarely, but I suppose I would like to set it right for general purposes.
Scott
 
Sltm1 I like those grips. May I ask where you got them?

Live in Southeast Michigan, suppose I could hunt for a gunsmith to install a blade sight. Looks good on your revolver

The design of the cylinder, the little extension on the front end, appears intended to reduce the cylinder binding up from fouling. Same thing on the Colt 1873 and on the Ruger Old Army. Lack of it is maybe why people sometimes get 18 shots before their Remington binds up. Don't know for sure, just supposing.

There is a detailed description & photos of an original R&S on:

http://armscollectors.com/mgs/army_revolvers_part_2.htm
 
SHIPCHIEF (what ship?), It would be unfair to tell you a price, to both you and him. I will tell you though, it was extremely reasonable and the workmanship flawless, cap and ball work is his love, not his business. Send me a PM and I'll send you his ph #.

JamesKelly, the grips are semi-finished from TombstoneGrips.com, takes a couple of hours to fit and finish yourself. That cylinder pin extention is one of the improvements on cap and ball mechanics that induced the military to order 5000 of them. Also, I have an original and the Euroarms is a pretty accurate reproduction.
 
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Another option for ya

is to do this mod , as long as your gun shoots straight to start with that is .
Solder a new front balde, ramp or whatever your heart desires .
I lightly clamped this Lyman with flux and solder mix between barrel and sight , turned out real nice , and strong .

100_0574.gif
100_0589.gif

Das Jaeger
 
About that link;
The low thrust line of the PETTENGILL revolver is interesting. Too bad it had a double action only system, although the article indicated that it cocked the hammer at the end of the firing cycle?
I like the look of it, and the Savage revolver.
No accounting for taste I guess.
 
Get a dovetail file and a cutting file. If you've never done it before practice on a junk barrel or piece of steel tube first. Once you get the hang of it cutting dovetails is really easy. Just don't go too deep ;-)
 
Thanx folks, all great suggestions. Haven't shot it enough to know if it shoots straight or not. My "kaintuky windage" aint that good. I did want to keep it looking somewhat original, but if it won't shoot to POA it's no fun. Best bet looks like a dovetailed blade sight that I can drift right or left and file for elevation. sltm1, yours sure looks good, I like dat.
 
I went to the hardware store and got a screw and a nut. Cut and filed to correct length. She shoots right on at 25 yds.
 
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